A Tuning Challenge...

For the RB25DET maestros out there (which I certainly am NOT).

So here goes. I will be picking up my R33 GTS-t at Nissan next week, and will be modding it within the next couple of months. Here's the catch. It has been purchased, but since I will not have the car for more than a couple of years, I am not interested in going all out on it only to sell it later on.

My goal is 300 hp at the crank or thereabouts, so about 220+ kw if I am not mistaken (once again, at crank), and tight handling, better than stock at least. Once again, for you engineering and math guys, here are the "boundary conditions", or rules:

(1) No cutting of any wires that cannot be put back easily.
(2) No cutting any of the body / bumper / metal, inside or out (Japanese inspection is strict! And expensive!!)
(3) Anything bolted on / mounted should be able to be removed easily and with no trace that it was there.
(4) Car must pass Japanese inspection (this may be more difficult to comment on but to those in the know please feel free)

I will of course include basic monitoring / maintenance items such as the turbo timer, the boost gauge, a/f ratio / and those things, so please advise on the next stage of upgrades.. I am thinking that an intake / cat back / front pipe / and an AF-C / EVC of some sort would get me to my modest power goal. How about suspension though, any suggestions? Please advise! Thanks!

On another note if there is someone out there with a dynoed ecr33 with the mods I mentioned Id like to know your numbers.

Hmm, how bout this. Downpipe, (Do you have to have the cat in?) if not then straight pipes, if yes then cat back. Pod filter, BOV, (I guess the no cutting of metal kinda rules out a cold airbox with intake in wheel well eh?) Hmm I don't know but thats were I'd start :D Look into some z rated brake pads. I don't know much about suspension so I'll let someone else answer that :)

Do exhaust, air intake and boost control at 1.0 and that will make your hp goal.

Is 1.0 bar really safe? I heard above 12 psi (0.8 bar) can break the ceramic wheel on the ECRs T3. Anyone know a safe limit with basic mods. I plan to get an EVC soon, and will set it to 10 psi, unless higher is ok. Thanx for the help.

SilverR33

.9 would be safe. To go any higher you would need a metal head gasket.

300HP @ Mota :

* K&N Panel filter
* Turbo dump pipe and 3' exhaust, thermo tape wrapped, heat blanket on turbo.Replace cat.
* Tighten all turbo plumbing and change fuel filter to K&N.
* Remove front inner guard dust sheild behind stock intercooler. Better airflow.

Bingo 300HP! and no extra boost needed.

300HP+ and drivable with no cutting wires:

* G-ready E-manage piggy back ecu. (If you sell you can just take it out).
* Light flywheel, Ogura make a very nice 4.8kg unit. Engine revs faster boost quicker.
* Light under drive front pulley (as above benifits)
* Light weight HKS adjustable cam pulleys (as above and can change cam timing)
* Electronic boost controller, HKS or Apexi AVCR and kick the boost up to 12-14psi.
* Rising rate fuel pressure regulator (malpassi), will extend the range of power on the stock injectors to over 200rwkw.



Suspension wise.

If you want to drag race occasionally - leave it stock but add some strut tower braces for better chassis feel into corners.

If you want more positive feed back on corners, do the braces add some good shocks and 20% stiffer springs up front and 25-30% in the rear. Lower it by 2 inches at the front and 1 inch at the rear.

Do the brakes while your at it, crossdrilled discs can be bought for $200AUS each and get some nice pads. Don't forget the good rubber.