1987 Honda Accord no spark

My daughter's accord will sometimes start, but will die after a while and won't start. Right now I can't get a lick of spark from the coil wire, let alone the distributor. I've replaced the distributor to make sure the igniter inside it is working. I've replaced the coil. I've tried re-soldering the connectors on the (six connector control module). I can't seem to locate the breakdown point in the (electronic) spark system. Can I get a whooup whooup!!!!!!!!. If there's anyone out there who might have the answer, please, I'm begging. I've been working on this problem for a month.

I wish I could help, I've got my own headache with electrical insanity in an '87. I keep finding wiring with cracked insulation and shorts everywhere.

Ok, lets go to the basics. You have changed the distributor and worked on the main relay. Good places to start. Lets go more basic. Do you have voltage and a ground at the distributor. The distributor gets its voltage from the ignition switch. With the key on, are you getting almost battery voltage to the hot side of coil? The other side of the coil is run through the ECU. So when a spark is needed, the ECU provides a ground for the coil. When you turn the engine over, does the voltage on the side opposite the hot side of the coil go from battery voltage to zero and then back to battery voltage? (You will need an analog meter with a needle so you can see if it swings.) You can see where I am going with this: ignition switch or ECU. Was the distributor new or a junk yard replacement?

Ok, lets go to the basics. You have changed the distributor and worked on the main relay. Good places to start. Lets go more basic. Do you have voltage and a ground at the distributor. The distributor gets its voltage from the ignition switch. With the key on, are you getting almost battery voltage to the hot side of coil? The other side of the coil is run through the ECU. So when a spark is needed, the ECU provides a ground for the coil. When you turn the engine over, does the voltage on the side opposite the hot side of the coil go from battery voltage to zero and then back to battery voltage? (You will need an analog meter with a needle so you can see if it swings.) You can see where I am going with this: ignition switch or ECU. Was the distributor new or a junk yard replacement?




I have not tested the coil points at ignition, I will check that. I have followed test procedures with the ignition on, for the igniter inside the re-manufactured distributor and the old one as well. They both passed. I've been working with three different ECUs; the original and two used ones from a salvage yard. Just trying to make sure I don't buy an expensive part that won't solve the problem. It's raining here right now, but as soon as it clears, I will employ your suggested coil test procedure. By the by, I've also switched ignition swithces back and forth, with one I bought at that same salvage yard. Again, just checking to make sure I don't buy an expensive part that won't solve the problem.

Is your battery low (below 12DCV, 12.5 is charged)?

Also check your CRANK (crankshaft), TDC (responsible for ignition timing), and CYL (#1 cylinder position) sensors (all located in the distributor, may have been bad from the yard)

Check all wires related to the system

When you turn the key to on (not start) do you have an oil pressure or check engine light on (showing the ECU is getting Power)

If you were assuming the ICM (Ignition Control Module/ Igniter) you didn't need the whole distributor, it is sold (~80) or can be separated from your junk yard distributer

If you are having the same mystery problem that I am... try checking for a spark from the coil as the key is being turned to on or off (charging/discharging the coil), and not while cranking...

This is supposedly the ICM or Ignition switch (which you've checked/changed), although the CRANK sensor and ECU are also being brought up as good possibilities
to check the crank sensor - see if the injectors are firing using a noid light ( if not, thats your problem)

Check resistances of your coil - PM me if you need any of the test procedures...

Spark problems suck:banghead:, wish I was there to look at it myself...

Does the 87 have a crank, TDC and cyl#1 sensors? If it does, all it does it tell the ECU when to fire (ground the igniter lead).

Coil points at the ignition? What do you mean?
Again, answer the question: Are you getting battery voltage at the bl/y wire with the key on and also when you are cranking the engine? If not, when you disconnect the coil and igniter and turn on the key and crank the engine, are you getting battery voltage on the bl/y wire?