Re: 91 Honda Civic Starting/Stalling problem

OK Guys. Girlie here. I've been reading all of this cause I have a similar problem. Only my car will start for a day or two, then it won't for at least two days. What I am wondering is: What is 44k and seafoam?

check the fuel relay, had the same problem.

check the fuel relay, had the same problem.


Are you talking about the main relay switch under the dash? Or a different one; then where is it located? I plan on changing the fuel filter this weekend. Thanks for the help.

Yes the one under the dash. This relay acted up three, or four times. I changed it out after pulling the fuel tank and checking the fuel pump. Changed this relay and had no more problem.

I've changed out the main relay, spark plugs & wires, fuel filter (under the hood. did'nt know there was another by the gas tank) and put new distributor cap. Can't figure out how to take the rotor cap off to replace it and also found out I can have the ignition box checked out at parts store, but can't get it out either. I'm afraid I'll get everything out of alignment.

There is a set scew on the rotor button that is kinda hard to see, it's a alan wrench head, i forget what size but it's not that big. Once you get the screw out it should just slide right off. The fuel pump relay will be different that the main relay so you may want to locate that and check it out like said before. When you turn your key on hold your ear close to your gas tank and see if you can hear the fuel pump prime when you turn the key on.

I've changed out the main relay, spark plugs & wires, fuel filter (under the hood. did'nt know there was another by the gas tank) and put new distributor cap. Can't figure out how to take the rotor cap off to replace it and also found out I can have the ignition box checked out at parts store, but can't get it out either. I'm afraid I'll get everything out of alignment.
if they will test it, take it out and have it tested. it could very well be your ignitor or coil

How do I take it (rotor & ignition box) out?? I don/t see a screw holding it (rotor) in & I'm afraid to pry on it real hard. If I can take the rotor out, I can get to ignition box. Thanks for the help.

Oops, sorry I didn't see the previous reply about the set screw. I will try that next. Thanks

OK......I don't have an "allen wrench" set screw on my rotor. This has a "phillips head" screw which is located about half an inch down the "long neck" part of the rotor. I looked in the box of the new rotor and it also has a phillips head or small socket type screw. Do I have to remove the entire distributor to get to this?? If so, how do I do that??

nope... just rotate it around to the open spot and loosen the screw.

Does it allow you to move it by hand or do you have to "bump" the motor? What if the original location of the rotor (where it's pointing) is not the same. How critical is this?

you have to bump it and the rotor is shaped so that you can only put it on one way and wont be able to mis-align it

i'm curious...have you check for error codes on your ecu???

No I haven't. Doing process of elimination. Don't have a code machine and probably wouldn't know how to use it anyway. Thanks for the help.

OK.....Managed to change out the igniter, rotor, and dist cap. Still won't start. Checked out spark plugs for fire and they're firing. Tried spraying with starter fluid & BAM, fires right up. Just automatically starves for gas as soon as it burns that up, though. Now what? Where do I go from here?

spark may be there, but not hot enough, check it with a multi meater, also have you changed teh main relay? ive seen it mentioned but didnt see that you changed it, it is the higher one up too, there is an easy one to get to down by the hood relase, not it, gotta keep going up

The fuel relay I'm talking about is on the driver side under the dash near the fuse box . This relay stopped working on me three or four times. After the car would sit the relay would open up and work ,but got worse and finally stopped working. There is no relay at the gas tank. I was explaining that I thought it was the fuel pump and took out the gas tank to get to the fuel pump,but found the fuel pump working after taking the tank out . I put it all together and the car ran good for three days and stopped again . I checked out the fuel relay and it tested bad. Changed it and no more problems.

how do you get a relay tested?^^

Yes, I checked out the web-site mentioned earlier and so I knew what it looked like. I had a relay given to me by a friend who said it came off a running car, which I put in, but I know that's no guarantee. Can these be tested at parts store? I read in my repair manual how to do it, but it's above my head. I guess I'm back to square one.

check your ECU for codes, it's located under the carpet on the passenger side (just take out that one plastic screw thing and your good to pull it up) see if the red light is blinking...the ECU can throw a code without the engine check light coming on.

Ok, guess that's the plan for tomorrow. I'll have to buy a code reader and learn how to use it. Hope the weather doesn't turn bad.

you dont need a code reader, there is a light under the carpet on the passengers side, pull back the carpet and count the number of blinks and give that to us, it will blink the code, then a pause, then a different code if there is more then one

how do you get a relay tested?^^
There is a how to illustration in the Haynes auto book on trhe 1984-1991 HONDA CIVIC. Chapter 4. That shows how to test the main relay.

Checked out the fuel filter and it appears to be bone dry. Took off the incoming line, cranked the car and no fuel. Shouldn't it be squirting out?

OK, dmbrisket referring to an error code: Pulled the carpet back, it's not flashing. Turned the key to ON position, not flashing. Cranked the car, not flashing. Is there a trick to it?

And brock_rick: The Haynes manual is the one that's over my head. I don't know what kind of meter/tester I'm supposed to use. I know it says check for continuity, but with what?

Sorry guys & gals, please be patient. If not, send me some matches. I'm almost to that point. Thanks

It's sounds like it's dead , or the ecu is dead . Thats what it states in the Haynes book. If no flash no life.

does the ECU light blink once when you turn the car from off to on?

Yes, the light blinks only once. Please tell me there's hope. Thanks

brock-rick, how expensive is the ecu? I've already spent a small fortune.

brock-rick, how expensive is the ecu? I've already spent a small fortune.
I found a place on the comp. That rebuilds Ecus , and the cost is 150.00. Look up Ecu repair on the comp. and you should find that site.

does the ECU light blink once when you turn the car from off to on?
In the Haynes book , that is the code for oxgen related problems. The light should pause then blink again. If there is no light at all the problem is the ecu, or an open circuit between the yellow wire and the no. 1 fuse,or the no.1 fuse is bad.

In the Haynes book , that is the code for oxgen related problems. The light should pause then blink again. If there is no light at all the problem is the ecu, or an open circuit between the yellow wire and the no. 1 fuse,or the no.1 fuse is bad.I interpret the ecu light stays when the car is switched on. Then flashes after it senses a problem with one of the sensors.

Where is the #1 fuse? I have checked all the ones under the hood and under the dash.

Why don't ya buy a haynes book it will help. I like talking to ya but that is how I'm getting most of my info. I have a Crx that I'm trying to bring back to life . The funny thing about this I have a Brother that is one of the best tech. on Hondas. He has been with Honda for over 20 yrs. I just hate talking to him about his work so I'm trying to figure this out on my own.
If you have checked each fuse thats not the problem. It could be the fuel pump .

Why don't ya buy a haynes book it will help. I like talking to ya but that is how I'm getting most of my info. I have a Crx that I'm trying to bring back to life . The funny thing about this I have a Brother that is one of the best tech. on Hondas. He has been with Honda for over 20 yrs. I just hate talking to him about his work so I'm trying to figure this out on my own.
If you have checked each fuse thats not the problem. It could be the fuel pump .You can tell that I've had a Beer ,or two.

Can you tell I didn't mess with it at all today. I'm trying to recuperate. Yes, I have a Haynes manual but, I don't always understand it. Also, the fuel pump is the first thing I changed out. I dread crawling under there again to check the connections. The instructions in the box said that if it doesn't work and you can hear it humming, the connections could be reversed. Aargh ! ! Anyway I don't understand how an oxygen sensor would keep it from starting. I thought it would only run rough. But I'll go back to the battleground in a couple of days, so if you have any other suggestions, please keep um coming. I'll keep trying. Thanks for the help.

if your ecu flashes once and does not flash again then it is not a code one that is normal and you are back at square one sorry

Does that mean it's good news? It will only flash once each time I turn the key to the on position. It's not the ecu then?

Can you tell I didn't mess with it at all today. I'm trying to recuperate. Yes, I have a Haynes manual but, I don't always understand it. Also, the fuel pump is the first thing I changed out. I dread crawling under there again to check the connections. The instructions in the box said that if it doesn't work and you can hear it humming, the connections could be reversed. Aargh ! ! Anyway I don't understand how an oxygen sensor would keep it from starting. I thought it would only run rough. But I'll go back to the battleground in a couple of days, so if you have any other suggestions, please keep um coming. I'll keep trying. Thanks for the help.
Have ya blew air thur the gas lines to see if the line is clear. I think yuo ask one time if gas should spray from the fuell filter inlet line and, yes it should. I don't think the wires could be crossed if someone has not rewired the car and changed the wiring harness plug. If you are hearing the pump come on; That tells me the Fuel relay is working ,and The ecu is working . Then somthing is wrong with the fuel pump. A new pump can have problems to. Also check the pump pickup tube. I still think that main relay has problems . Maybe in the wiring harness that plugs into the main relay.

I've had that happen to me before where the new fuel pump didn't work, but surely my luck can't be that rotten!! What's worse is that you have to drop the tank almost completely to get to the fuel pump. Anyway, I'm gonna bite the bullet and drop that tank again. Thanks for telling me you don't think it's the ecu. That's good news.