Parts 4 forced induction

I was just wondering, other than lower compression pistons, what are requirements for having forced induction? Other than bolting it onto a stock motor, i plan to go either way. I have heard that the victor jr heads are a must for N/A but they will work with lower compression pistons and forced induction right? I also know that the combustion chamber should also be pretty large for having a sc or turbo. So what are some good parts to run (more like high power for the money)? Is the bbk intake manifold pretty good with this setup? Im looking at a twin turbo setup and i plan 2 run around 600-800 hp and do little street driving. I might go a little lower on the hp anywhere from 500-800 just so i can run it on the street.

This is hilarious. Didn't you give that guy shit for wanting an ultra high HP street car, now you have just as stupid and unrealstic goal, albeit slightly less retarded on the horsepower levels? Pure gold.

A) Stock block is weak past 500 RWHP

B) Prepare to spend around 10-12 thousand on the motor, fuel system, and ignition/computer before you even get into anything else on the car.

C) Set a realistic goal, like bolting a set of shorty headers onto your stock car.

You can build it for 7k, you just have to be thrifty(aka a cheap fuckin bastard like me) :D

This is hilarious. Didn't you give that guy shit for wanting an ultra high HP street car, now you have just as stupid and unrealstic goal, albeit slightly less retarded on the horsepower levels? Pure gold.

A) Stock block is weak past 500 RWHP

B) Prepare to spend around 10-12 thousand on the motor, fuel system, and ignition/computer before you even get into anything else on the car.

C) Set a realistic goal, like bolting a set of shorty headers onto your stock car.

LOL not quite. This is like a sunday driver not a 1000hp street machine. I plan 2 run it just 4 shits and giggles not as my daily commuter. I didnt plan on running a stock block, and i do have a complete exhaust system 4 ur information. i dont see how 500hp is unrealistic. I just saw a guy that raced last night with 600hp and a turbo. which he drove to work everyday. I know how much parts cost, dont belittle me because im 18. Ive worked on motors most of my life. 10-12 thousand would get me a fully race motor, maybe if you were including a sc then thats reasonable.

You can build it for 7k, you just have to be thrifty(aka a cheap fuckin bastard like me) :D

thats hella funny. I wasnt the only one doggin that guy 4 wantin 1000hp or 1200 or whatever. I didnt plan on going all out, you really dont have 2 to get the power. 800+ costs more than 500-800. my budget would b around 8-10 thousand.

thats hella funny. I wasnt the only one doggin that guy 4 wantin 1000hp or 1200 or whatever. I didnt plan on going all out, you really dont have 2 to get the power. 800+ costs more than 500-800. my budget would b around 8-10 thousand.

Of course I am talking about waiting for good deals on good parts, the engine is only as strong as its weakest link, goodbye! :)

Of course I am talking about waiting for good deals on good parts, the engine is only as strong as its weakest link, goodbye! :)

Ya, well if i had a couple of skylines and a s trim on my stang id say about the same. I need 2 get me a full time job as soon as im out of school so i can have them!

You don't think you need to go all out for "500-800" HP, but yet you have no idea what it even takes to make that much power :rolleyes:

The difference between 1000-1200 RWHP and 800 RWHP is miniscule, to be quiet honest. Bit bigger injectors, bit bigger fuel pump, bit bigger turbos if you want, and a glide instead of a C4, AOD, or a stick. 500-800 still takes an aftermarket block, good internals, some good flowing heads, a good EMS or a carb, and a big turbo kit. I have over 4300 dollars tied up in my shortblock (you know what a shortblock is, right?) and it's a "basic" dart sportsman block, with a forged eagle crank, forged eagle rods, off the shelf diamond pistons, and a new canton pan. That doesn't include heads, intake, injectors, ECU, transmission, turbos, intercooler, any shit like that. Then you need to set aside money for when shit brakes later on down the road, because it doesn't matter how well you build it, shit brakes when you make that much power. You can't build and sustain a 500-800 HP car on a part time student budget, especially when you have little to no knowledge about cars. Try bolting an SC-trim and exhaust onto your car before you try to dive into some hugely powerful project. Not only is the cost a restriction, but add to the fact that you would likely wreck the car the first time you punched WOT, shit your pants when the rear end starts to kick out at 60, and put it into a ditch.

I'm just gonna leave this thread alone...

You don't think you need to go all out for "500-800" HP, but yet you have no idea what it even takes to make that much power :rolleyes:



Well i have driven a 475hp camaro that was race ready for the oval, but maybe i havent. Oh and i know slicks make the difference so ya i have driven it on the street with regular tires. Yes i know it costs a lot, but with my experience i know it doesnt take 12,000 to get 500hp. or even 650 like skyline said. i told u it was with little street driving. take it how u want it. i know how power slides the rear end around ive driven my 350hp stang IN THE SNOW. sounds stupid but i wanted to get more feel of the car. You may think that since im 18 that im a stupid ignorant kid. well think again. ive never put my car or anyone elses in a ditch. with a 347 stroker, good pistons and a nice set of heads im in the high 400hp range. add a sc 2 that combo and u have around 580-600. so u tell me its gunna cost 12,000 2 get 2 650. Skyline understood what i said. like always. maybe u should read the thread again.

I'm just gonna leave this thread alone...

i just dont understand y its so hard 2 ask. Budget is my problem is it not? I asked for specific internals for turbos. I have built an engine from a bare block so maybe this guy shouldnt judge me. Whether i end up in a ditch or not is also my problem. Believe it or not right now im building an engine at school for this car. but i want to start a street/strip engine pretty soon. so other than reading up on it some more, is anyone willing to help (which is what this forum is 4) with a forced induction question? I dont have experience with forced induction, only na applications. so thats why i ask. like everyone else does.

i just dont understand y its so hard 2 ask..


It's not hard to asked but it has been answered before..........


oh and I didn't judge anyone The SEARCH FEATURE works wonders...

It's not hard to asked but it has been answered before..........


oh and I didn't judge anyone The SEARCH FEATURE works wonders...

sorry i meant boosted. I was searching for like personal experience. thats all. and i have only been a member since jan. so i havent ever seen this.

i just dont understand y its so hard 2 ask. Budget is my problem is it not? I asked for specific internals for turbos. I have built an engine from a bare block so maybe this guy shouldnt judge me. Whether i end up in a ditch or not is also my problem. Believe it or not right now im building an engine at school for this car. but i want to start a street/strip engine pretty soon. so other than reading up on it some more, is anyone willing to help (which is what this forum is 4) with a forced induction question? I dont have experience with forced induction, only na applications. so thats why i ask. like everyone else does.

You've built an engine before, and you're building an engine for the car right now. Super, now you might as well throw that big hunk of iron in the garbage for your pipe dream because:

Block is too weak
Crank is too weak
Rods are too weak
Tolerances are probably crap.


I'll start you off with the basics. Anything past 500-550 RWHP on a stock 302 block and you're on borrowed time. A mexican or sportsman block is a decent upgrade, but past 650-700 RWHP that is borderline as well. Enter the realm of high dollar aftermarket blocks. You have a few choices. A4, R302, Dart, Man-O-War. A4 is an SVO block and no longer produced, but you can find them used for around 1200-1500 dollars, plus machine work. R302 is the newer equivalent of A4's, and run around 1800 + machining. Dart sportsman blocks are around 1800, Dart iron eagles are around 2200. Man-O-War is in the 2200-2500 range depending on deck heights, etc. My Dart Sportsman needed a finish bore and hone, mains were line honed, and cam journals needed a line hone. Ran a little over 2100 for block + machining. You need a forged crank, perferably zero/neutral/internal/whatever you want to call it balance, forged rods, and forged 2618 pistons, no high silicone SRP crap. You need an aftermarket oil pan for your aftermarket oil pan.

In general, you need money. A hokey, home-built, stock block jalopy is not going to take 800 horsepower for an instant, so throw out that notion right now. Call a good engine builder, have them build you a nice and expensive shortblock. Call cammotion and get a custom cam ground, then call up TEA and get your heads. Then after you've spent in the neighbourhood of 9 grand, you can start to think about your fuel system, ECU, transmission, rear end, suspension, roll cage, other safety stuff, heck, you might even squeeze time in there to figure out your turbos.

You've built an engine before, and you're building an engine for the car right now. Super, now you might as well throw that big hunk of iron in the garbage for your pipe dream because:

Block is too weak
Crank is too weak
Rods are too weak
Tolerances are probably crap.


I'll start you off with the basics. Anything past 500-550 RWHP on a stock 302 block and you're on borrowed time. A mexican or sportsman block is a decent upgrade, but past 650-700 RWHP that is borderline as well. Enter the realm of high dollar aftermarket blocks. You have a few choices. A4, R302, Dart, Man-O-War. A4 is an SVO block and no longer produced, but you can find them used for around 1200-1500 dollars, plus machine work. R302 is the newer equivalent of A4's, and run around 1800 + machining. Dart sportsman blocks are around 1800, Dart iron eagles are around 2200. Man-O-War is in the 2200-2500 range depending on deck heights, etc. My Dart Sportsman needed a finish bore and hone, mains were line honed, and cam journals needed a line hone. Ran a little over 2100 for block + machining. You need a forged crank, perferably zero/neutral/internal/whatever you want to call it balance, forged rods, and forged 2618 pistons, no high silicone SRP crap. You need an aftermarket oil pan for your aftermarket oil pan.

In general, you need money. A hokey, home-built, stock block jalopy is not going to take 800 horsepower for an instant, so throw out that notion right now. Call a good engine builder, have them build you a nice and expensive shortblock. Call cammotion and get a custom cam ground, then call up TEA and get your heads. Then after you've spent in the neighbourhood of 9 grand, you can start to think about your fuel system, ECU, transmission, rear end, suspension, roll cage, other safety stuff, heck, you might even squeeze time in there to figure out your turbos.

Boosted, layin it out for the masses:D He is absolutely right, power does not come cheap, wait reliable power does not come cheap.

If you can find an early 351w that will meet your power goals. I know plenty of guys running 700rwhp on those blocks for a few seasons, as long they are seasoned, which most should be because of there age, you are good to go.

I do not put a lot of faith in custom cams, that is my take on cams. I have done plenty of research on the subject, and I feel its a myth, hence me going with a F303.

You've built an engine before, and you're building an engine for the car right now. Super, now you might as well throw that big hunk of iron in the garbage for your pipe dream because:

Block is too weak
Crank is too weak
Rods are too weak
Tolerances are probably crap.


I'll start you off with the basics. Anything past 500-550 RWHP on a stock 302 block and you're on borrowed time. A mexican or sportsman block is a decent upgrade, but past 650-700 RWHP that is borderline as well. Enter the realm of high dollar aftermarket blocks. You have a few choices. A4, R302, Dart, Man-O-War. A4 is an SVO block and no longer produced, but you can find them used for around 1200-1500 dollars, plus machine work. R302 is the newer equivalent of A4's, and run around 1800 + machining. Dart sportsman blocks are around 1800, Dart iron eagles are around 2200. Man-O-War is in the 2200-2500 range depending on deck heights, etc. My Dart Sportsman needed a finish bore and hone, mains were line honed, and cam journals needed a line hone. Ran a little over 2100 for block + machining. You need a forged crank, perferably zero/neutral/internal/whatever you want to call it balance, forged rods, and forged 2618 pistons, no high silicone SRP crap. You need an aftermarket oil pan for your aftermarket oil pan.

In general, you need money. A hokey, home-built, stock block jalopy is not going to take 800 horsepower for an instant, so throw out that notion right now. Call a good engine builder, have them build you a nice and expensive shortblock. Call cammotion and get a custom cam ground, then call up TEA and get your heads. Then after you've spent in the neighbourhood of 9 grand, you can start to think about your fuel system, ECU, transmission, rear end, suspension, roll cage, other safety stuff, heck, you might even squeeze time in there to figure out your turbos.



Damn I should send you a case of beer............

I couldn't have said it better myself.

Boosted, layin it out for the masses:D He is absolutely right, power does not come cheap, wait reliable power does not come cheap.

If you can find an early 351w that will meet your power goals. I know plenty of guys running 700rwhp on those blocks for a few seasons, as long they are seasoned, which most should be because of there age, you are good to go.

I do not put a lot of faith in custom cams, that is my take on cams. I have done plenty of research on the subject, and I feel its a myth, hence me going with a F303.

The F cam works great in a lot of applications, but you will pick up a good amount of power with a custom cam. I helped put together a motor for a friend probably 6 or 7 years ago now, it was an A4 block stock bore with a 3.4 crank, so a 342. He was running an F-cam, hi-port's, a spyder intake, and a 6-speed. Turbo setup was a Cartech kit with twin T66's in an E-housing. From an F-cam to a 232/242 .617/.629 low lash 114 LSA solid roller. Low end power was the same off boost, spool picked up by 3-400 RPM's, and it made 40 RWHP more at the same boost levels. Cammotions custom cams are about 100 bucks more than an F-cam, what I would do is request a cam online, and see what they say. If it's similar to an F, just run the F. If you have plans of turning more than 6000 RPM's or have some really big turbos that need RPM's, they'll probably give you a custom cam in the 230/240 range.

351W blocks are nice and strong, but by the time you get the block, get the swap pan, get the different motor mounts, spend extra $$$ on the headers and downpipe to fit the taller block, a usually more expensive different intake, you're running right around the same price as a Dart Sportsman, so I personally would take the dart, and end up with a lighter car as well. One thing that bothers me about the 351W's is they have a huge 3" main journal, so you see a lot of frictional losses and extra heat caused by that big sucker. Another downside is if you want to upgrade the stock crank in your 351W that crank will not fit into any aftermarket blocks other than the 351 sportsman, as they all use the 2.75"/cleveland size main journals. You can run bearing spacers, I guess, but I've never seen a street motor with bearing spacers that didn't have problems down the line.

That is, of course, just my :2cents: ;)

The F cam works great in a lot of applications, but you will pick up a good amount of power with a custom cam. I helped put together a motor for a friend probably 6 or 7 years ago now, it was an A4 block stock bore with a 3.4 crank, so a 342. He was running an F-cam, hi-port's, a spyder intake, and a 6-speed. Turbo setup was a Cartech kit with twin T66's in an E-housing. From an F-cam to a 232/242 .617/.629 low lash 114 LSA solid roller. Low end power was the same off boost, spool picked up by 3-400 RPM's, and it made 40 RWHP more at the same boost levels. Cammotions custom cams are about 100 bucks more than an F-cam, what I would do is request a cam online, and see what they say. If it's similar to an F, just run the F. If you have plans of turning more than 6000 RPM's or have some really big turbos that need RPM's, they'll probably give you a custom cam in the 230/240 range.

351W blocks are nice and strong, but by the time you get the block, get the swap pan, get the different motor mounts, spend extra $$$ on the headers and downpipe to fit the taller block, a usually more expensive different intake, you're running right around the same price as a Dart Sportsman, so I personally would take the dart, and end up with a lighter car as well. One thing that bothers me about the 351W's is they have a huge 3" main journal, so you see a lot of frictional losses and extra heat caused by that big sucker. Another downside is if you want to upgrade the stock crank in your 351W that crank will not fit into any aftermarket blocks other than the 351 sportsman, as they all use the 2.75"/cleveland size main journals. You can run bearing spacers, I guess, but I've never seen a street motor with bearing spacers that didn't have problems down the line.

That is, of course, just my :2cents: ;)

That is a good point about the mains, but I will still go the cheap bastard route, I am not sure why, but it lures me to the darkside.

As for the custom cam your friend ran, did it idle fine? That's a pretty tall lift for a street car, dontcha think? Did he have any issues with that?

I wonder why there was so much bias on the exhaust for a turbo? That is strange.

I picked up my F303 for $125 brand new off of ebay, I thought the customs were going for around $325. Yes, I do agree if you are trying to ring out every last pony out of an engine go custom, but for me, more street driving I will stick with the F.

That is a good point about the mains, but I will still go the cheap bastard route, I am not sure why, but it lures me to the darkside.

As for the custom cam your friend ran, did it idle fine? That's a pretty tall lift for a street car, dontcha think? Did he have any issues with that?

I wonder why there was so much bias on the exhaust for a turbo? That is strange.

I picked up my F303 for $125 brand new off of ebay, I thought the customs were going for around $325. Yes, I do agree if you are trying to ring out every last pony out of an engine go custom, but for me, more street driving I will stick with the F.

I thought it idled fine, and the car is still running on the same combo today, he tore it down about a year ago to re-ring and throw in new bearings, gaskets, etc, but otherwise it still runs strong. His other weekend ride is a 69 Camaro with a 377" big bore SBC and a crazy big cam, it's like 274/266 @ .050, so I guess a 232/242 sounded pretty mild. It's .010/.010 hot lash so it doesn't need to be checked a lot, and the ramp rates are pretty smooth so it isn't a valve spring buster by any means. Probably pulls 12-13 inches at idle, so it's not too bad.

You've built an engine before, and you're building an engine for the car right now. Super, now you might as well throw that big hunk of iron in the garbage for your pipe dream because:

Block is too weak
Crank is too weak
Rods are too weak
Tolerances are probably crap.


I'll start you off with the basics. Anything past 500-550 RWHP on a stock 302 block and you're on borrowed time. A mexican or sportsman block is a decent upgrade, but past 650-700 RWHP that is borderline as well. Enter the realm of high dollar aftermarket blocks. You have a few choices. A4, R302, Dart, Man-O-War. A4 is an SVO block and no longer produced, but you can find them used for around 1200-1500 dollars, plus machine work. R302 is the newer equivalent of A4's, and run around 1800 + machining. Dart sportsman blocks are around 1800, Dart iron eagles are around 2200. Man-O-War is in the 2200-2500 range depending on deck heights, etc. My Dart Sportsman needed a finish bore and hone, mains were line honed, and cam journals needed a line hone. Ran a little over 2100 for block + machining. You need a forged crank, perferably zero/neutral/internal/whatever you want to call it balance, forged rods, and forged 2618 pistons, no high silicone SRP crap. You need an aftermarket oil pan for your aftermarket oil pan.

In general, you need money. A hokey, home-built, stock block jalopy is not going to take 800 horsepower for an instant, so throw out that notion right now. Call a good engine builder, have them build you a nice and expensive shortblock. Call cammotion and get a custom cam ground, then call up TEA and get your heads. Then after you've spent in the neighbourhood of 9 grand, you can start to think about your fuel system, ECU, transmission, rear end, suspension, roll cage, other safety stuff, heck, you might even squeeze time in there to figure out your turbos.


You dont need to get an attitude about it. I know the block wont hold i shouldnt have mentioned that im building an engine 4 my car right now. It just confused you. That motor is just going to be my N/A 347 stroker. I know crank rods and block are all 2 weak. Dont try to fool me. Thats a race block. which is more than likely what i plan to buy. Only by ford racing. Ive got a huge list already for what i plan to do with the rest of the car. I have money. To be truthful, I have $27,000 in the bank right now. So like i said. I get it costs money, thats common sense. I just didnt ask for your opinion on pricing and if its right for me. I just asked for turbo parts. For some reason you are not understanding that.

I thought it idled fine, and the car is still running on the same combo today, he tore it down about a year ago to re-ring and throw in new bearings, gaskets, etc, but otherwise it still runs strong. His other weekend ride is a 69 Camaro with a 377" big bore SBC and a crazy big cam, it's like 274/266 @ .050, so I guess a 232/242 sounded pretty mild. It's .010/.010 hot lash so it doesn't need to be checked a lot, and the ramp rates are pretty smooth so it isn't a valve spring buster by any means. Probably pulls 12-13 inches at idle, so it's not too bad.

I appreciate both your opinions dont get me wrong. I just hate it when people say i cant afford it and bullsh** like that. I have a problem with smart asses and im pretty sure you can see that. Im not doubting you boosted i was just asking about turbo internals and i got a "why dont you go bolt on some shorty headers onto your stock motor?" I would probably go with a F cam i have heard good things about them. I would probably get a nice aluminum ford racing block and forged eagle crank or a trick flow crank and forged eagle rods and some ross racing pistons. Maybe wiseco. Ive got a nice 8.8" lined up and ive got a lot of steeda suspension parts either here or on the way. I just gotta order me some brakes! So ive also been looking at Brodix heads and comparing them to the Edelbrock Victor jr. theres a huge price difference, but i was looking more for better for the setup.

You're funny, too funny funny. Have any proof you have 27 large in the bank account, Mr. I turned 18 a few days ago?

No, I didn't think so. Like I said, save up from your McD's job for a few more months, maybe you can bolt an SC-trim and exhaust onto your stock car.

And remember champ, thinking you're going to buy something and actually having the means and ability to do it are 2 completely different things. I can think about plugging Brooke Burke, doesn't mean it's ever going to happen though.

You're funny, too funny funny. Have any proof you have 27 large in the bank account, Mr. I turned 18 a few days ago?

No, I didn't think so. Like I said, save up from your McD's job for a few more months, maybe you can bolt an SC-trim and exhaust onto your stock car.

And remember champ, thinking you're going to buy something and actually having the means and ability to do it are 2 completely different things. I can think about plugging Brooke Burke, doesn't mean it's ever going to happen though.

YES i am funny, you jackass. But i was being serious. My dad died in '00 and left me around 30 thousand. some for school after high and the rest for whatever i want. I got his car, the 82. He had another 89 but i didnt need that for a car. So ya im guna lie about something like that. How old are you? You sound pretty f-in immature to be saying shit like im going to lie about how much money i have. once again this thread wasnt about money. Now lets get back to the subject, ladies. i guess if u call stock bottom end fully stock then it is. but the whole top end is aftermarket. id like one of these administrators to block you for your bullshit you keep trying to play. this is for people to talk about their cars, not talk about who has more money. I dont know what it is about you and exhaust, but i have MAC SHORTY HEADERS, MAC OFF ROAD H PIPE AND SPINTECH SIDE EXHAUST. jesus what is so hard for you to read my signature????? and as for the sc trim, id rather go paxton, because they are better than a trim. so fine if this is about talkin shit, we can talk shit.

I thought it idled fine, and the car is still running on the same combo today, he tore it down about a year ago to re-ring and throw in new bearings, gaskets, etc, but otherwise it still runs strong. His other weekend ride is a 69 Camaro with a 377" big bore SBC and a crazy big cam, it's like 274/266 @ .050, so I guess a 232/242 sounded pretty mild. It's .010/.010 hot lash so it doesn't need to be checked a lot, and the ramp rates are pretty smooth so it isn't a valve spring buster by any means. Probably pulls 12-13 inches at idle, so it's not too bad.

My Boss runs a .012/.012, so I check it at every oil change. 276/266 Holy crap :iceslolan I would not want to drive that car in Phoenix traffic in the middle of summer, because you know that car has no AC :p

My Boss runs a .012/.012, so I check it at every oil change. 276/266 Holy crap :iceslolan I would not want to drive that car in Phoenix traffic in the middle of summer, because you know that car has no AC :p

Lol, I live in Washington, and around here theres so much rain noone even has a thought caring about having an AC. In Phoenix thats a different story. I prefer windows and sunroofs. Maybe a targa top.