Looking for educated advice.

As some of you know I am building a 1989 351w. I took the block and crank to the machine shop this week so it wont be long before I will be putting this motor together. I already have a 750cfm Edelbrock Performer carb, Edelbrock Performer RPM Air-Gap 351w intake, and Edelbrock's Performer RPM heads. I had been planning on running an Edelbrock Performer RPM hydro roller cam (.520/.520 lift and 227*/234* @ .050). But I emailed Edelbrock to make sure it would work in my 351 since it is only listed for 289-302. They emailed me back saying that the cam would not work for my 351w, due to the different firing order. I know that 289-302 cams are interchangeable with 351w cams as long as you use the firing order that the cam is designed for but I guess this one for some reason is not. So since my heads have valve springs rated for .575 lift I wanted to keep about the same cam so I started shopping. Comp Cams has a hydraulic roller cam for 351w that is .513/.529 lift and 230*/236* @ .050. This cam is supposed to be designed for 2000-6000 rpms. I hadent planned on turning this motor past 6k anyway since it is a street motor that I will take to the track every now and then. So my question is do you think this cam will give me what I am looking for? I would like to hit mid-high 11's in the quarter but that may just be a dream. I am hoping for around 400rwhp. Not sure how close to that I will get. At the moment I am planning of a TCI Streetfighter C4 and the matching converter. Also since this is a street car I dont want to run much more than 10:1 compression and I'm planning on 373 gears in a 8.8 rear. So what do you think? Will I get what I am hoping for? Any advice? Things to change, add, or subtract?

With performer RPM heads, a dual plane intake and that cam you will not hit 400 RWHP out of a 351 through a C4, I can tell you that right now. Here's a rundown of a 347 I had running for a while. 11:1 compression, AFR 205 heads, 232/240 @ .050 .563/.584 lift 110 LSA hydro roller, victor Jr. intake, 750 holley, 1" spacer, kooks 1 3/4 long tubes, 3" exhaust dumped, and a world class T5. That made 430 RWHP on pump gas. More compression, more cam, bigger intake, bigger heads, and a light T5 and it made 30 RWHP more than you want to make. I think that setup with the 230/236 cam would make a nice street combo but I wouldn't expect it to make more than 350 RWHP through a C4.

With performer RPM heads, a dual plane intake and that cam you will not hit 400 RWHP out of a 351 through a C4, I can tell you that right now. Here's a rundown of a 347 I had running for a while. 11:1 compression, AFR 205 heads, 232/240 @ .050 .563/.584 lift 110 LSA hydro roller, victor Jr. intake, 750 holley, 1" spacer, kooks 1 3/4 long tubes, 3" exhaust dumped, and a world class T5. That made 430 RWHP on pump gas. More compression, more cam, bigger intake, bigger heads, and a light T5 and it made 30 RWHP more than you want to make. I think that setup with the 230/236 cam would make a nice street combo but I wouldn't expect it to make more than 350 RWHP through a C4.

Lol I was hoping you would read this thread boosted, you have opened my eyes alot in the past. So thanks for that. Edelbrock says they made 400hp with a 351 rpm heads/intake, hydro flat tap cam, 9.5:1, and a 750. Now I'm sure thats a sales pitch just like their dreamworld 1500-6500 rpm band. So if I ran a 5 speed and a victor jr would I have a better chance you think? Thanks again. I just dont want to get into changing valve springs and all. I dont have any valve train components yet, so a bigger cam is still very possibly, any suggestions?

Edelbrock said they made that much power with that combo, no way in hell!

You want a N/A no matter what, right? Pump gas, what octane? Increase that compression to 10.5 to one at a min, you have aluminum heads, you can get a way with it. I have a friend running 11.2 on pump gas, with almost the exact same engine combo that you have, except his cam is only 220/220 500/500 112 lobe sep. He is pushing around 350 to wheels, but he has a top loader.

There is only 3 ways to really increase power, bigger cam, which for the street I would not go any bigger than 230/237 550/550 112, I do not like the higher lifts because of the stress it puts on the top end. More compression, which you can adjust with timing to a point, or more volume.

400rwhp is a tall order, what are you willing to do to get it? 350 to wheels is a lot of power, you could alway throw a little N2O to get you there:D

One thing you have to keep in mind about their dynos is I would bet money that is running no accesories with an electric water pump, and STD corrected. For shits and giggles because I'm bored as crap at work I plugged in roughly that 347 combo I told you about. Simulating power steering, a mechanical fan and water pump, and SAE corrected it said 531 HP and 487 Lb-ft. Not changing anything on the combo except for simulating no accesories but an electric water pump and an STD correction factor it gave 578 HP and 518 Lb-ft. You can manipulate a dyno to skew the results in your favor big time, although running without accessories is almost always done, it doesn't always give a true idea of how much power you're making on the street. If you will sway away from the N/A side, that combo you described with something like an F-cam (224/224 .512/.512 114 LSA) and an S-trim would make 500 RWHP reliably without complaint.

I am using an F303 with 1.72, so it becomes a little more 351w friendly 228/228 550/550 114, would suggest if you go that route, get some 1.7s.

I thought about it today and have considered about a 75hp shot of n20. But I have been wanting to go FI for a while now. I just dont know enough about forced induction at all to know what I'm doing. What does it take to turbo or supercharge a carb'd engine? Can I go with a turbo or supercharger useing my 750cfm Edelbrock Performer carb thats still in the box? If you would be willing to show, tell, explain a FI setup with everything I would need to be reliable enough to drive on the street, and tell or teach me how to use it on a carb'd engine I would seriously persue it. Also if you have any used parts to part out that I would need I would be interested. Thanks again.

I am going blow through, its a lot cheaper, and easier to tune.

www.turbomustangs.com is an awesome site to read up on it, and they have a complete break down on how to build your own carb, but I am going to buy a CSU carb.

If your going turbo, the wider the lobe sep, the better. F cam is perfect, or I should say pretty darn good for an off the shelf cam.

Any sites with good pictures and details of what I need and why I need it for a S-trim or other on a carb'd 351w? Thanks for the turbo site skyline.

So do I just need a blow thrue carb, carb hat with piping directly from the blower, and a conical filter on the inlet side of the blower? Or is there much more to it than that?

Also Boost reference fuel pressure regulator 1:1, an Aeromotive A1000 and that is it.

Read up on the carb section, that is what I did. You can get within 15% of an EFI for mpg, and spend a whole lot less for parts and tuning.

I like the idea of changing jets again, like on my Boss, for tuning rather than having to go hook the darn thing up to a computer and spending money out the butt for the same result, or close to it.


http://superiorairflow.com/

http://www.ronsraceshop.com/136/10005/Carburetors/CSU%20Carb%20Solutions%20Unlimited/

http://www.csucarbs.com/

Thanks again for your help skyline. So if I go with a Vortech S-Trim blower how much am I looking to spend for everything I need to complete a reliable FI combo? Will my duel plane intake be sufficient or do I need to get a Vic Jr?

Thanks again for your help skyline. So if I go with a Vortech S-Trim blower how much am I looking to spend for everything I need to complete a reliable FI combo? Will my duel plane intake be sufficient or do I need to get a Vic Jr?

I am going Vic Jr, the others will work, but most of the guys on there like the single planes for some reason.

About $950 for hat and carb already set up for your engine, should just have to play with the jets, and if you have problems, you can call CSU and they will walk you through anything to get you going, customer support like you would not believe.

S-Trim, well that depends if you buy new or not, but with a 351, I would go with a T-Trim, but that is up to you.

Regulator, and running fule lines about $300, fuel pump $250, intake $250, and a box of jets $45, pumps, power valvles, little stuff like that. Also I have not read up on the distributer, but a mech advance would be the way to go, I am not sure if the vac adv will work, but like I said I have not looked into that yet. I am still gathering parts myself.

Why T-Trim over S-Trim? what are the differences? When I'm shopping for a blower do I need to look for a kit or just a blower? Also how much compression do I need? My machine shop will be calling any day now and he's been bugging me about buying some mahle pistons. I was thinking $400 forged pistons instead of $650 but we will see.

Look on the Vortech web site, it gives a breakdown of all the trim modles. S-Trim will work, but the T has a little more volume, a little more effecient, and can boost a little higher.

Compression, that depends on what gas you can get and boost that you want, with my S-trim I can run 13lbs at 12* advance with 93oct. To give you an idea. I run that on hypers.

I thought you wanted to stay N/A?

If you do go with a VORTECH, get the cogs that have teeth, not the ribs, the ribs will slip. I have an 8 rib set-up and it slips when I go to the 13lbs pulley. If you are going to run higher boost, the 8 rib will not be able to support it.

Well I want to look into FI fully before I decide either to spend more money on this car or just go n/a atleast for a while. Right now I'm thinking that if I do go n/a I will be getting a super or turbo charger by winter time. If I can get a decent blower and everything cheap enough I will buy it all now. I was thinking about 10lbs would be plenty for me. I'd like to be able to get a reliable FI setup for at or under $2k. But it doesnt look like thats going to happen. If anyone know of any used stuff I am interested.

I am selling all of my FI stuff. Let me know what you need, I'll sell it for under what I paid for it, if you want to go that route.

I have Pro M 80mm 42lbs and injectors, complete harness with computer, all the sensors, etc.

Oh sorry, by FI I meant forced induction, not fuel injected lol. Sorry for the misunderstanding.

No worries :D

Theres a local guy here with the www.superchargerhelp.com bracket setup, not sure if it was 8-rib or 10-rib, and he said he was getting zero slip running 20 pounds from a YS-trim into a 347. That's a better way to go than cogs for the street, because cog belts have a tendency to destroy themselves on a street car with a stick. If you do go cogs you must run a T-trim, or a HD S-trim. The S-trim's bearings cannot handle the side loading put on them by a cinched down cog belt and will eat themselves up in short order. A HD s-trim is one that has been upgraded with better bearings, and it should be marked on the little ID label on the head unit. T-trim's come with the better bearings standard. Look on the Corral, there are always people selling S-trim's for cheap on there. It's a great way to taste boost for the first time.

Ok, thanks again guys for all your help. I will look into an S-Trim some more and see what all is out there. I have been doing some google searches to help figure out what some of my options are. So basically all I need is the carb, hat, headunit, and piping. Then I could use some pointers on carb cfm, and fuel delivery. I will look around and see what all I can find. If you dont mind helping me pick and choose components it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks again. I am looking forward to this.

Theres a local guy here with the www.superchargerhelp.com bracket setup, not sure if it was 8-rib or 10-rib, and he said he was getting zero slip running 20 pounds from a YS-trim into a 347. That's a better way to go than cogs for the street, because cog belts have a tendency to destroy themselves on a street car with a stick. If you do go cogs you must run a T-trim, or a HD S-trim. The S-trim's bearings cannot handle the side loading put on them by a cinched down cog belt and will eat themselves up in short order. A HD s-trim is one that has been upgraded with better bearings, and it should be marked on the little ID label on the head unit. T-trim's come with the better bearings standard. Look on the Corral, there are always people selling S-trim's for cheap on there. It's a great way to taste boost for the first time.

If the cog has teeth, why would there be more side load? Is that what you are verfered to by cinching down?

With that braket you mentioned, don't you think you would greatly increase your side load? You are effectively torquing on the pulley harder with the belt by using that bracket, that load will be felt on the bearings. Unless there is something I am missing?

I have not ran a cog set up, so I would look into that a little more with the advice of what boosted mentioned then.

What kind of mounting plate/bracket or whatever would I need to buy for a 87-93 coupe with my 351w if I bought a S-Trim headpeice? Then what size pullies (thinking 8 rib)? Where can I get the piping I would need to run from the blower to the carb hat? I need the blower, gears, piping, intake, carb, carb hat, fuel pump and pressure regulator. Anything else? Does the blower need some kind of oil or coolant? If I have a fuel pump on the block do I still need 1 in the tank? I'm ready to start putting this all together as soon as I get my short block back from the machine shop.

If the cog has teeth, why would there be more side load? Is that what you are verfered to by cinching down?

With that braket you mentioned, don't you think you would greatly increase your side load? You are effectively torquing on the pulley harder with the belt by using that bracket, that load will be felt on the bearings. Unless there is something I am missing?

I have not ran a cog set up, so I would look into that a little more with the advice of what boosted mentioned then.

You run a cog belt a LOT tighter on the blower, which is what cause the side loads on the blower, as well as additional stress on the snout of the crank. With a serpentine belt a bit of slip is fine and even helpful for letting the blower gradually slow down to keep pace with the motor after an upshift, but you don't want that with cogs. Any slip in the cogs and you shear all the teeth of the belt and it's useless. The SCH bracket/pulley setup uses more, bigger idler pulleys to give you more belt wrap, and the car I saw had a supercharger brace which mounts to the supercharger pulley and to the crankshaft pulley to help reduce side loading and bracket flex, although I don't know if that is standard equipment on the SCH bracket setup. If I were doing cogs or even a higher boost (15> psi) serpentine setup there is no way I would be running it without the crank-to-blower brace.

I'm not super familiar with running a Vortech on a 351W, but there is lots of info on the Corral. From what i've seen you can run the stock bracket and it's iffy if it'll clear the hood, or you can have your stock bracket modified by a few different companies. For the blower discharge i'd just buy a 3" J-bend and cut it to fit. For pullies the most common sizes are 6.87", and 8" for the crank pullies, and 3.33", 3.12", 2.95", 2.75" for the blower pullies. I would stick to the 6.87" crank pulley, as even the 8" crank and 3.33" blower would probably net you 12+ pounds of boost. The 6.87 crank and 3.12 blower pulley would be a good choice for around 10 pounds of boost on a warmed over 351. Vortech's are fed oil from your motor, you just need to punch a hole for the drain in your oil pan, it's not hard. I personally am not a fan of mechanical pumps, I would ditch it for a good electric pump.

Ok, thanks again guys. I will look into all this new info some more tomarrow after work. I could care less about hood clearance, I'm thinking about an extended cowl lift off hood anyway. Thought about custom piping a conical air filter up into the back of the cowl behind the carb to get a straight shot at cooler air. Any flaws to this idea or should I just run it out front somewhere like a CAI? What do you mean by blower discharge? The pipe between the blower and the carb? I'm going to look into fuel pumps and pressure regulators tomarrow so I'm sure I will be back with questions on them as well. I really do appreciate this guys. I'm learning alot and I think I can pull it off. Thanks for the continued support.

If you will sway away from the N/A side, that combo you described with something like an F-cam (224/224 .512/.512 114 LSA) and an S-trim would make 500 RWHP reliably without complaint.

Ok, if I run an F cam with 1.7's I will have to change my valve spring. So if I'm goin thrue all that would I be better off with an F cam with 1.7's or something like Trick Flow's stage 2 cam?
Also I called vortech and they dont offer any complete systems for a sbf carb'd application. So this will be custom after all.

Ok, if I run an F cam with 1.7's I will have to change my valve spring. So if I'm goin thrue all that would I be better off with an F cam with 1.7's or something like Trick Flow's stage 2 cam?
Also I called vortech and they dont offer any complete systems for a sbf carb'd application. So this will be custom after all.

Did you see Brent, over 1000rwhp with an F303 on a 302 block. Your car is going to be bad, once you go turbo of course :p

You run a cog belt a LOT tighter on the blower, which is what cause the side loads on the blower, as well as additional stress on the snout of the crank. With a serpentine belt a bit of slip is fine and even helpful for letting the blower gradually slow down to keep pace with the motor after an upshift, but you don't want that with cogs. Any slip in the cogs and you shear all the teeth of the belt and it's useless. The SCH bracket/pulley setup uses more, bigger idler pulleys to give you more belt wrap, and the car I saw had a supercharger brace which mounts to the supercharger pulley and to the crankshaft pulley to help reduce side loading and bracket flex, although I don't know if that is standard equipment on the SCH bracket setup. If I were doing cogs or even a higher boost (15> psi) serpentine setup there is no way I would be running it without the crank-to-blower brace.

I'm not super familiar with running a Vortech on a 351W, but there is lots of info on the Corral. From what i've seen you can run the stock bracket and it's iffy if it'll clear the hood, or you can have your stock bracket modified by a few different companies. For the blower discharge i'd just buy a 3" J-bend and cut it to fit. For pullies the most common sizes are 6.87", and 8" for the crank pullies, and 3.33", 3.12", 2.95", 2.75" for the blower pullies. I would stick to the 6.87" crank pulley, as even the 8" crank and 3.33" blower would probably net you 12+ pounds of boost. The 6.87 crank and 3.12 blower pulley would be a good choice for around 10 pounds of boost on a warmed over 351. Vortech's are fed oil from your motor, you just need to punch a hole for the drain in your oil pan, it's not hard. I personally am not a fan of mechanical pumps, I would ditch it for a good electric pump.


Thanks for the post boosted.

I am pretty sure my front is an 8", and I run a 3.33 for 8lbs on my car, but I could be mistaken as I always swap the smaller pulley.

Boosted, what were you refering to about the mech/elec pump? Oil pump? If so, do you have any pics of your set-up?

what were you refering to about the mech/elec pump? Oil pump? If so, do you have any pics of your set-up?

fuel pump

Did you see Brent, over 1000rwhp with an F303 on a 302 block. Your car is going to be bad, once you go turbo of course :p

Ya I'm plannin on finishin this build with an S-Trim and drive it for a while. Then in a year or so I may get a sportsman or dart block or somethin and run a T76 or somethin.

Ya I'm plannin on finishin this build with an S-Trim and drive it for a while. Then in a year or so I may get a sportsman or dart block or somethin and run a T76 or somethin.

That is the same road I took:D

Good luck on it, and take pics.

Thanks for the post boosted.

I am pretty sure my front is an 8", and I run a 3.33 for 8lbs on my car, but I could be mistaken as I always swap the smaller pulley.

Boosted, what were you refering to about the mech/elec pump? Oil pump? If so, do you have any pics of your set-up?

I was refering to his post about mechanical fuel pumps.

Right now my car's a pinch of a work in progress, the body is off the frame as it had some rust and I wanted to put in a roll cage without being restricted by gravity and such for the welding :lol: I'm waiting on the heads right now, but I have the shortblock at my shop on my acreage. I don't have a digital camera, or even a camera period right now, but I'll try and scrounge something up when I go out there saturday/sunday.

I swear though, half the fun of cars for me is the building of them. I have so many friends that get stressed whenever they work on cars, but for me it's relaxing. My wife isn't into the fabrication bit, but she does things like wiring, upholstry, sanding and other body work, and installing general stuff like suspension parts, etc, so I guess it's more fun when you have a loved one to help you, rather than cussing by yourself or having your wife cuss at you in a dark garage :lol:

I swear though, half the fun of cars for me is the building of them. I have so many friends that get stressed whenever they work on cars, but for me it's relaxing. My wife isn't into the fabrication bit, but she does things like wiring, upholstry, sanding and other body work, and installing general stuff like suspension parts, etc, so I guess it's more fun when you have a loved one to help you, rather than cussing by yourself or having your wife cuss at you in a dark garage :lol:

I know what ya mean. Me and my best friend have always built cars together. started with a '82 Z-28 350 sbc th350, then a '69 Nova 400sbc th400, then my friends '84 fire bird 350sbc th350, and now mu car. Rather than getting stressed we have always enjoyed working through problems and learning something new each time. Also like you said building the car is one of the funnest parts to the whole project.

OK, talked to my machine shop yesterday. They told me that if I'm going with a supercharger that my stock crank may not work. He said that depending how thick the belt was I may need a crank with a double keyway or somethin and a longer snout. Also he said if the supercharger was pulling hard at all on the snout then my cast crank would not hold up. Do I really need a steel crank? If so I might as well stroke it right?

Do I need to go 8 rib or will 6 rib do? Will 6-8 rib make a difference on my crankshaft situation? 10-12psi should suffice correct?

What year crank is it? If its an 89 crank, I would agree.

You need an 8

Do I need a crank with a different snout for an 8 rib?

Anyone know?

So running this S-Trim at 10-12 psi on my 351 on pump gas (93 octane) how much compression do I need? 9:1? Also will DSS Pro-Lite pistons and rods with a Eagle 4340 crank hold up or are there other suggestions? My machine shop is suggestion Mahle pistons and I think Crower rods and crank.

I would run 9:1. Mine is set up with 8.5:1, but I did not build it.

Email the guys at AD, they have put together 100s of engine packages, they know what works.

You can go to the Corral, and search for Eagle, he works there, and knows his stuff big time.

I would run 9:1. Mine is set up with 8.5:1, but I did not build it.

Email the guys at AD, they have put together 100s of engine packages, they know what works.

You can go to the Corral, and search for Eagle, he works there, and knows his stuff big time.

This may be a stupid question but who is AD? lol.

Also I was wondering if superchargers where kinda like turbos are about a chambered muffler. Also would I be better off with shortys or LT headers?

Another carb question, are those CSU carbs really that superior for their $750 price tag or would a 750cfm Mighty Demon blower carb for about $550 work just as well? Of course they would both have to be tunned.

After reading up on the turbo pages, those guys swear by the CSU carbs. Its not only the carb, but the tech support you get with it. Think of it also as getting a very knowledgable dyno tunner with the price of the carb, since you can call them, and they will help you dial it in.

AD these guys. www.adperformance.com.

I hate chambered mufflers, I would only use a straight through disigned muffler myself.

When possible I would use LTs.

i didnt feel like reading all 3 pages so i'm not sure if anyone mentioned it but if you're gonna blow a 351w you're gonna need a little more than a c4 adn an 8.8 rear, either a tremec tko or 6-speed and a ford 9in rear would be my suggestion

a c6 would prolly take it too

i didnt feel like reading all 3 pages so i'm not sure if anyone mentioned it but if you're gonna blow a 351w you're gonna need a little more than a c4 adn an 8.8 rear, either a tremec tko or 6-speed and a ford 9in rear would be my suggestion

There are people running sub 10's with a c4 and 8.8.

I am gowever considering a manual tranny. Just having a hard time finding one that is rated for over 500 hp/tq.

Ive heard that you dont need a real steep gear with boost. is 3.73 too much or should i go down to 3.55's?

So running this S-Trim at 10-12 psi on my 351 on pump gas (93 octane) how much compression do I need? 9:1? Also will DSS Pro-Lite pistons and rods with a Eagle 4340 crank hold up or are there other suggestions? My machine shop is suggestion Mahle pistons and I think Crower rods and crank.

For the price of crower rods and a crower crank into your stock 351 block you could be sitting in a dart block with eagle internals, and eagle internals are good to over 1200 HP so I'm going to suggest the eagle stuff. I had a DSS motor a number of years ago and I wasn't pleased with it, and if you look on the corral not a whole lot of other people are either. Bad customer service, some shoddy techniques going on there. I would run the stock crank, stock football rods, and a set of good forged pistons like JE's, with ARP studs and bolts. That setup is proven good to over 600 RWHP, I wouldn't worry about a new crank for your block.

For a hydraulic roller 351 I would run 3.08's or 3.27's with boost, 3.55's will be OK, you don't need a lot of gear at all.

For the price of crower rods and a crower crank into your stock 351 block you could be sitting in a dart block with eagle internals, and eagle internals are good to over 1200 HP so I'm going to suggest the eagle stuff. I had a DSS motor a number of years ago and I wasn't pleased with it, and if you look on the corral not a whole lot of other people are either. Bad customer service, some shoddy techniques going on there. I would run the stock crank, stock football rods, and a set of good forged pistons like JE's, with ARP studs and bolts. That setup is proven good to over 600 RWHP, I wouldn't worry about a new crank for your block.

For a hydraulic roller 351 I would run 3.08's or 3.27's with boost, 3.55's will be OK, you don't need a lot of gear at all.

So I dont need a crank with a longer snout or anything for an 8 rib pulley? I've already trashed my stock rods. Any pros/cons to Mahle pistons? And how much compression do you think I should run with 10-12 psi boosted?

So I dont need a crank with a longer snout or anything for an 8 rib pulley? I've already trashed my stock rods. Any pros/cons to Mahle pistons? And how much compression do you think I should run with 10-12 psi boosted?

AFAIK you don't need a longer snout or anything to run an 8-rib crank pulley, it just bolts to the front of the crank like any other pulley. Your best bet would be to call Vortech directly. A set of eagles with upgraded bolts is going to run just under 600 bucks, vs. a set of football rods for 50 bucks and some ARP's for 100. I've never ran mahle pistons, nor do I know anyone who's run mahle pistons, so I can't say anything about them. I would run anywhere from 8:1 to 9:1 for 10-12 pounds of boost, that's what you see most aftermarket pistons working out to.

are 1995 5.0 mustangs fast

I would go 373, so you can go with a little taller tire for more side wall flex.

How did you ruin a set of stock rods? I was going to use stock ones for mine, but I just don't know?

Not sure if I mentioned this, but I run 9.5:1 and 14lbs of boost, with 1* of takeout at a base of 12* adv on 94oct.

I would go 373, so you can go with a little taller tire for more side wall flex.

How did you ruin a set of stock rods? I was going to use stock ones for mine, but I just don't know?

Not sure if I mentioned this, but I run 9.5:1 and 14lbs of boost, with 1* of takeout at a base of 12* adv on 94oct.


Planning on running a 28" tall tire.

Ruined my stock rods with a hammer and a punch when I was removing them because I didnt think they would hold up.

What do you mean 1* of takeout at a base of 12*? I know we are talking timing, and I'm assuming that with a 12* base you mean you are 12* adv at idle. So with 1* of takeout would that just be 11*? This part has always confused me.

Did you mean 8.5:1? I thought thats what you said earlier.

Yes, at idle my car runs 12 adv. I have one of those MSD/VORTECH ingnition/boost controller units. It takes out as much as 3* of timing for every 1 psi. So, you can have 30* taken out at 10psi. Remember your base timing does not stay at 12*, the distributor or ECU will adavnce it, right. This make sure you don't detonate.

With a 28" tire, I would go 3.73s, but 3.55s would be pretty good as well. Run the numbers with your tranny, and your projected power band, and your projected trap speed, to see which will best suit your needs.

Yes, at idle my car runs 12 adv. I have one of those MSD/VORTECH ingnition/boost controller units. It takes out as much as 3* of timing for every 1 psi. So, you can have 30* taken out at 10psi. Remember your base timing does not stay at 12*, the distributor or ECU will adavnce it, right. This make sure you don't detonate.

With a 28" tire, I would go 3.73s, but 3.55s would be pretty good as well. Run the numbers with your tranny, and your projected power band, and your projected trap speed, to see which will best suit your needs.

Thanks again Skyline.

1 question though. Would you mind to go in depth for me about your setup? I took a half day off work to try to get everything figured out and parts ordered and I'm getting nowhere. I called vortech who doesnt do anything with carb'd sbf's. Also I would have to send my blower bracket off to some company in Mich to have them modify it for my 351w. Also Vortech could not tell me if my stock crank would work with their 8 rib pulley or not, they where only able to tell me that I could get a crank and blower pulley for about $250. So my question is, what all do I need to buy? Blower, pulleys, oiling, brackets, fuel pump, what else? I know there is alot but I need to know about the crank situation first, my machine shop is waiting on me to find that out. If you could tell me everything I need and the best place to get it I would greatly appreciate it. Thanks alot man!

Would it be easier to go with a turbo?

Turbo's are not easier, trust me.

I might have what you need in my garage. Its an 8 rib made for the older supercharger set ups, but it only has 3 bolt holes, Your crank has 4 bolt holes right? Well, if it does, you could just drill it for 4 holes application.

PM me your number, I can give you a call.

Turbo's are not easier, trust me.

+1! Turbos make a truckload of power, but the exhaust piping and downpipe(s) are a pain in the ass, especially if you arn't that great with the fab skills, or don't have much patience. I agree about the gears, I assumed at first you would be running a typical 26" tall tire, 3.73's would work well with a larger 28" tire. Keep in mind it takes a lot more work to get a 28" tire under there, and you can go 9's on a 26" tall drag radial ;)

+1! Turbos make a truckload of power, but the exhaust piping and downpipe(s) are a pain in the ass, especially if you arn't that great with the fab skills, or don't have much patience. I agree about the gears, I assumed at first you would be running a typical 26" tall tire, 3.73's would work well with a larger 28" tire. Keep in mind it takes a lot more work to get a 28" tire under there, and you can go 9's on a 26" tall drag radial ;)

I'll look into that, thanks.
I just thought that several people on here had said to go with 28" tires.

So 26" tires and 3.55's maybe?

tremec makes a tko rebuild kit for the t-5 tranny, makes it a lot tougher, and if you're gonna keep the 8.8 rear at least get some c-clip eliminators, i know people have put plenty of power through em, so have i, but you're gonna be fixin it a lot

tremec makes a tko rebuild kit for the t-5 tranny, makes it a lot tougher, and if you're gonna keep the 8.8 rear at least get some c-clip eliminators, i know people have put plenty of power through em, so have i, but you're gonna be fixin it a lot

Tremec doesn't make a "tko rebuild kit", the TKO is an entirely different tranny. TKO's are basically toploaders with an overdrive gear. Even if they did make a "TKO kit" with stronger gears to put in a T5, the weakest part of a T5 is the case. It's thin, it flexes, pushes the gears out of allignment and then everything starts to break.

Tremec doesn't make a "tko rebuild kit", the TKO is an entirely different tranny. TKO's are basically toploaders with an overdrive gear. Even if they did make a "TKO kit" with stronger gears to put in a T5, the weakest part of a T5 is the case. It's thin, it flexes, pushes the gears out of allignment and then everything starts to break.

I've looked into TKO trannys. What manual trans would you suggest for this build? Would a Centerforce dual friction clutch/pp do the job or would I need something more? Thanks.

I've looked into TKO trannys. What manual trans would you suggest for this build? Would a Centerforce dual friction clutch/pp do the job or would I need something more? Thanks.

If you have the money for a TKO, by all means get one. If you need to stick with a T5 for a while that's fine, just take it easy on shifts and launching. The dual friction might work, but I like the Spec Stage 3 personally for that much power.

I am going TKO 600, in the long run you have money, since it built stronger. At least that is my thinking.

I do not like the 3.xx first gear, the 600 has a 2.84ish, with a .64 5th, that is a very good set up for a tranny, much closer so you stay in the power band from 1st to 4th.

Just won the auction for a V1 S Trim. :evillol: Now I just gotta get my block back from the machine shop and start assembling.

Edit: just won the auction for an 8" 8 rib crank pulley as well. Cant wait to use them lol.