Brakes broke...

So as I pulled into work my car suddenly jerked left (passanger side). So as I was going to lunch I apporached a stop sign. Well as I slowed down from 30 I wasn't slowing nearly fast enough. So I pushed them in harder to stop in time and not hit a car. Well that locked them up and my tires of course drug across the pavement. But the weird thing was it was only my passanger side that did it. So I turned around and parked my car and work and looked at the brakes with the wheels on(couldn't pull them off) and my brakes looked fine. I just recently replaced the pads with new ones (reybestos) and have since had a odd squeek everytime I slow down. So I poped the hood and the master cylinder was full. Any ideas what I should look at on my day off tomorrow?

did ubleed the brake lines? if not air bubbles in the fluid can cause this scenario and can be dangerous!!! bleed the lines. other then that i dunno

how do i make that a link on my signature? LOL?^^

It's hard to say without seeing it . . . Did you lube all the moving parts? Slides, retainers, shims? If not your caliper could be stuck.

Proper maintenance!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!Just throwing pads on is a waste of time and money. Do it right the first time or don't do it at all.

What do you have to lube it with and how do you lube it? Would the brakes need to be bled after just putting pads on? The line was never opened to allow air in. And by retainers do you mean the little metal clips that are on either side of the pads and go into the caliper assembly?

The CRX online manual site is down which sux. It's a lot easier to show pic's than it is to describe, at least for me.

Bleeding isn't really needed for just a pad slap. Just make sure to compress the calipers piston with a C-clamp or large channel lock pliers. And don't forget to pump them brakes up before you go for a test ride. There's nothing like checking brakes and you don't have a pedal. If the brake fluid is very dark it would be a wise idea to suck out the master cylinder then bleed all 4 wheels until clean fluid comes out, keeping the master full the whole time.

By lubing I mean, the back of brake pad surface or shims if included.

The retainers are the "little metal clips that are on either side of the pads and go into the caliper assembly" I usually remove the caliper bracket, remove the retainers and clean the rust build up from underneath, lubing the retainer and where they sit on the bracket.

The above could cause noise if not properly done and maintained at least once a year. Use the lube supplied with the pads, we use Molykote at our shop. You can get it through Honda but it's very pricey, about $125.00 a tub.

The main lube points are the slides, this is what the caliper moves on. Remove the lower brake caliper bolt, slide caliper up, push caliper off bracket to expose top slide. The bottome slide you will need to pull out yourself. make sure the little rubber boots seat before install. Use Silicone grease, I've seen people try anti-seize but that's not lube and will swell seals giving a sticky brake system.

Rotors should be resurfaced or replaced with new pads, otherwise the uneven rotor will chew up pads, vibrate, and/or pulsate.

check this link - i think it shows every thing been a while since I read it.
http://importnut.net/brakes.htm

I still can't figure out why people do and say to remove both caliper bolts, only one per side needs to come out - the lower one. Simply pivot the caliper up and pop it off, it's that simple.

A nice finishing touch, besides painting every thing to make it look all pretty :uhoh: put a small about of white lithium grease on the rotor "hat" The part that the wheel touches. next time you remove the wheels they wont get stuck.

Any thing else?

Proper Maintance is probally something I shoud learn. The pads I had bought didn't actually come with any lube, so do you have any suggestions as to what lube I should use? Of course it would appear that my calipers had seized and the rotor was locked up as the hub tried to turn and busted my rotor.

With the hub still on I was able to move the rotor up and down. It looks as if the rotor busted off the hub. Here are some pictures I have of it right now. Also anyone have any clue how to get the axel retaining nut off? I sat there with a breaker bar but that bitch didn't want to come off. Of course that may be because the nut has been notched on, but I can't get that bitch out.

Thanks to technology I have these pictures if they can help any...
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v731/stretch_that_motha/brakes3.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v731/stretch_that_motha/brakes2.jpghttp://img.photobucket.com/albums/v731/stretch_that_motha/brakes.jpg

Be careful trying to get that spindle nut off. My friend ended up with stitches in his forehead.

What did he just pull really hard and have the breaker bar hit him in the head? That damn nut makes me wish I bought my dad the impact wrenches and everything he asked for for christmas
:banghead:

What did he just pull really hard and have the breaker bar hit him in the head? That damn nut makes me wish I bought my dad the impact wrenches and everything he asked for for christmas
:banghead:

Actually, he put a long screwdriver on the big ass socket (forget what size) and used a very long breaker bar and the screw driver snapped in 2 and flew up and hit him in the forehead. Turned out we didn't need to remove the nut anyway. Custom pickle-fork/valve puller thingy to get ball joint separated... Live and learn I guess...

Silicone grease for the slides
Anti-Squeak for brake pads, retainers, & shims

If your trying to change the rotor there is no reason to remove the axle nut. Simply remove the 2 phillips head screws on the rotor and it will come off. Getting the screws out isn't so simple, an impact driver should be used. You hit the impact driver with a hammer to remove/install screws. Possibly a parts store may loan you one.

I beleive that link I left before shows how to change a rotor. http://importnut.net/brakes.htm

To remove the axle nut your best off using impact gun. The other way is to remove the wheel cover or center cap, re-install wheel, set car on tires, use a large breaker bar through the hole in the wheel.

Ok all done, yea I feel like an idiot trying to bust off the axel retaining nut, when it was just two screws :banghead: . My dad actually had a socket that held a screw driver head and we busted it off that way. When I bought pads, I was kindy weary of the shims, as they were held there in place by a adhesive... Well appeartnly the shims adhesive sucked worse then my mechanical ability, and had caused the pads to slip. And on the drivers side I had been grinding the shim into the side of the rotor and resulted in this thise lovely looking rotor :eek2: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v731/stretch_that_motha/busted.jpg

So needless to say I went and picked up a set of rotors from Autozone, got the bitches turned, and got new pads for free from Checker. Shoulda made them pay for the rotors but to late for that....

That's hard to beleive that a flimsy shim did that to a rotor.

i agree, something elso did that, that shim would have melted away from heat or just simply bent itself out of the way. Something pretty solid had to do that cause it takes quiet a bit of heat and pressure in that case to cut thru steel unless those rotor are pressed together for somereason but they should be one solid piece.