front brakes please help

91 gtp

are there any bolts or screws that hold the front rotor to the hub?
something wrong in right front wheel. when you apply the brakes petal bounces and there is a rumbling noise when moving. i took off the right front wheel and noticed the rotor is just sitting on the hub and not connected to the hub wtf is that? please help.

thanks alot

Only thing that holds the rotor in place is the Caliper.Some use to use clips that pushed onto the lugnut studs to hold the rotor in place,but they are not needed and most dont replace them back on, once they have replaced the rotor's.

~Larry~

The rotor is held in place mainly by the pressure from the wheel being attached.

The rotor is held in place mainly by the pressure from the wheel being attached.


You still cant remove the rotor with out removing the caliper first :wink:

You are correct, sir. :icon16:

You still cant remove the rotor with out removing the caliper first :wink:

With a big enough hammer you can!!! :grinno:

With a big enough hammer you can!!! :grinno:

It would have to be with a 30 lb sledge hammer :lol: I know, I use to be in the ARMY....Tools Issued,Hammer and a cresent wrench :biggrin:

One Army issue BFH, comin' right up. :twak:

when you apply the brakes petal bounces and there is a rumbling noise when moving.
thanks alot

When you had the wheel off did you check the pads? low pads could cause the rumbling noise or if the rotor is worn. The pedal bouncing could be cause by this to i believe.

Hope you get it figured out.

JRK

Pedal bouncing sounds like a warped rotor to me. Depending on wear, might be able to be turned. If not turnable, replace. Aavoid chinese rotors sold by some chain stores unless you want to be doing this again in 6 months.

did you say the rotor was broken? As in the part where the pads contact is no longer attached to the hub portion? IF so, you need a T-60 Torx socket to get the two bolts holding the caliper bracket to the spindle off in order to remove the rotor. The hub section of the rotor can get rusted to the hub bearing making removal difficult, but there is nothing that holds it on once the wheel and caliper/bracket are removed. A good quality chinese rotor can work fine unless you are " Late Braker Joe" and like to stand your car on it's nose. The most crucial part to ensure that your rotors don't warp is to properly torque the lug nuts when reattaching the wheels. DO NOT skip this step, or you are GUARANTEEING a warped rotor soon, even if you spend $100's on fancy cross drilled/ slotted "Racer Rick" rotors.

Good point RichTazz.........that'sone of the most commonly ignored procedures: Tightening lugs nuts to the proper torque secification. 100lbs/ft. Do it! Do it now! :lol: The torque wrench is your friend. If you don't have one in your tool box, you need one!

Good point RichTazz.........that'sone of the most commonly ignored procedures: Tightening lugs nuts to the proper torque secification. 100lbs/ft. Do it! Do it now! :lol: The torque wrench is your friend. If you don't have one in your tool box, you need one!

Is 100lbs/ft across the board? I mean should all wheels be torqued to 100? I've wondered this many times but never asked.

Yep........100lbs/ft. for all four wheels on GM W-body cars.