96 civic turbo. help out please:)

im looking to turbo my 96 civic ex. my budget is around $2000 at most, and i just need the acctual turbo, i have a shop willing to bend my pipes for me. what is the best turbo i can get for my car for the least amout of money and what kind of perfomance can i expect. thanks.

are u trying to turbo a d16....or ls? casue with 2000 an ls vtec complete swap might cost u more than 2g...and a boosted d16 w/o head work (cam p&p) is just slow

d16. i know it wont be fast but i have limited options, do you know of any turbos

realy if you stick to any name brand yo should be fine,
just do not get a hybrid(this may not suet your car well). Maybe look at a T3

are u trying to turbo a d16....or ls? casue with 2000 an ls vtec complete swap might cost u more than 2g...and a boosted d16 w/o head work (cam p&p) is just slow

hahhaha :screwy: what are you talking about??? head work on a D will not get you more than i would say a !!MAX!! of 50whp... now how bout we talk about the bottom end.. a resleeving, forged pistons, some big fatt rods... your talking BIG hp potential with a big turbo kit(considering hp to weight ratio)

now if you were talking about an old american muscle car.. yah they can have huge gains from simple head work. but were not. were talking about a d16 engine.

oh and btw.. you can put together a cheap hmt setup on a stock d16 and smoke almost any stock or moderatley modified b-swaps aswell as a score of other engines.. it really doesn't take a lot to get the light chassis rolling fast.. and you'll be doing it for A LOT less money. u said 2000+ for an ls/vtec swap? sounds rediculously high but regardless i'll be under 2k when im done with my engine work on my D and i could garuntee you thta i'd run laps around an ls/vtec swap :p

sorry not trying to sound like an UBER asshole.. but u should read up some more.. or maybe just reword how u wrote that because it makes it sound like ALL HORSEPOWER IS DEPENDANT ON YOUR HEAD :screwy: a stock D bottom end will fail much sooner than its stock head will.

to the guy looking to boost: hit up www.turbod16.com and www.homemadeturbo.com for lots of good info. or shoot me a pm and i can help answer some of your questions. i've got almost all my parts for my setup together

-Luke

no...im sayin...u can only flow so much through a stock d16 head, im not sayin every single hp is in the head...sure u need a strong bottom end to boost high numbers, but if u can't flow(especially a d16)air into the combustion chamber...u can't make power, a stock d16y8 with a turbo(greddy kit) is slow...i have smoked them left and right with my all motor y8

wow the B/S in this thread is fucking amazing

im looking to turbo my 96 civic ex. my budget is around $2000 at most, and i just need the acctual turbo, i have a shop willing to bend my pipes for me. what is the best turbo i can get for my car for the least amout of money and what kind of perfomance can i expect. thanks.

A nicely turboed SOHC is a sight to see. you can make a decent turbo setup with $2000. with $2000, a nice small T3 would be a good start......so would alot of other junkyard turbos out there.......but, i dont know what you want...........so, you can figure that out for yourself.............Search.

about how much money is it gonna cost me total to get new pistons and all that shit and turbo it, i just need a rough estimate

you're going ot need more than a turbo and some pipes...but I think that 2k will get you what you need (if you shop around...)

I don't believe you'll need to strengthen the bottom end for moderate boost, but you wil need some kind of fuel management, and delivery, system upgrade for sure.

I would wait until i had ~3k, but 2k should geterdun


edit:
I grabbed this (http://www.beesandgoats.com/boostfaq/g2icturbo.html) link from turbod16.com (http://www.turbod16.com). You should do some reading: knowing is 1/2 the battle.

I know there's a whole 'related links' thing, but without those links my post is useless.

Okay...first off a few things I want to point out right now. Greddy turbo kits are considerd some of THE WORST kits on the market, HP wise!! They come stripped with NO intercooler, no BOV, and that's just to name a few. Also, they don't use a ball bearing turbo...Greddy kits don't put down nealy the power of a good kit or good DIY turbo. NOT ALL TURBOS ARE CREATED EQAUL!!!

It's commen for supercharger companies to claim they put down "more power than a greddy turbo kit...why? That's not hard!!! When lkailburn is doen his DIY kit will easily put down MORE than a base Greddy B18B1 kit...as I said the greddy kit is stripped down, weak and overpriced. Don't make the mistake of using Greddy kits to compare turbos and flow/power potential. It's not hard to out preform a greddy, that's why Supercharger companies compare their numbers to them. Throw on an aftercooler and some fuel managment, and they can outperform a base greddy kit EASY...you don't see them picking on Revhard for a reason....that kit would smoke the supercharger. Greddy kits are the weakest turbo kit out there...forget a stock D16 with a greddy kit being slow...ANYTHING with a greddy kit will be slow!!! Greddy lists 175whp as the output for the B18B1 kit....are you kidding me? I can reach 175whp with a DIY D16 turbo kit any day of the week, and a good pieced toghter B18B1 kit can more than bust you into the 230 range...Greddy kits are weak...it's just a name that people know, thats all. They are not good kits by any means, the power levle is weak, that's why people refer to them as a "show kit" and not a "turbo kit" sometimes.

That being said, $2000 on a D16 can net you one NICE DIY KIT, with some left over. Talk to lkailburn, he KNOWS what he is doing in terms of D16 DIY kits. You can use slighty modified DSM injectors I believe, a CX manifold as the turbo log manifold...you'll have to make an adapter plate for the turbo, etc...get a cheap intercooler, I think it's johnny boy racing that's pretty inexpensice. You can DIY a D16 for dirt cheap, and 175whp is pretty easy to obtain.You don't want to go much above 200whp, as the block can't take that, the rods will break or snap, etc. Besides....175whp or 200whp is more than enough to get a 2300lbs car moving (thats between 200 and 225hp @ the crank). On a stock block, the headwork isn't worth the $$...as was said, save the headwork for a fully built block that can take it. If you are looking for 175whp or so...a DIY turbo on a D16 will more than get you there with some money to spare. I believe Ace$nyper & lkailburn are both doing DIY turbo's, so listen to them for advice. Check out the sites lkailburn listed too...they have some good info.

eckoman THANK YOU. lol. very well stated. everything you mentioned is accurate and true

sohcfreak97--please list your all motor y8 mods.. all motor D is a joke.. thats why you say D series can't make power. its crazy hard to pull more than 210whp out of an all motor D. i think 210whp was the highest i've ever seen.. now u need to consider the cost that went into making that D na >200whp... then i'll let u know how much it cost me to get over 200whp FI.. and you'll make this face :eek:

i'll give you props for building all motor to ya(well.. if u did it all yourself.. if u had a shop do it please just walk away) but anyways it seems we all have some decent love for the D and so we should just put all our knowledge together and have some fun racin..winning.. and then showing the guy our cute lil four banger :bigthumb:

as stated.. if anyone needs some questions answered about FI D-series let me know

later,

-Luke

eckoman THANK YOU. lol. very well stated. everything you mentioned is accurate and true

sohcfreak97--please list your all motor y8 mods.. all motor D is a joke.. thats why you say D series can't make power. its crazy hard to pull more than 210whp out of an all motor D. i think 210whp was the highest i've ever seen.. now u need to consider the cost that went into making that D na >200whp... then i'll let u know how much it cost me to get over 200whp FI.. and you'll make this face :eek:

i'll give you props for building all motor to ya(well.. if u did it all yourself.. if u had a shop do it please just walk away) but anyways it seems we all have some decent love for the D and so we should just put all our knowledge together and have some fun racin..winning.. and then showing the guy our cute lil four banger :bigthumb:

as stated.. if anyone needs some questions answered about FI D-series let me know

later,

-Luke

No problem!!! :bigthumb: The mistakes, assumptions and incorrect information in the this thread needed to be corrected. When you leave bad info out there uncorrected is when you get a whole bunch of people running around with bad info...YIKES. :eek:

eckoman

opened my eyes!!!!!

i'll give you props for building all motor to ya(well.. if u did it all yourself.. if u had a shop do it please just walk away)

yes i did the work my self, i worked in an independant shop, but going to a ford dealer in 2 weeks(fords break down...and they pay me 25 an hour to fix them)
Zex(Comp) Cam stg2, comp springs, ported intake, port polished exhaust, (sent out for p&P) skunk2 itm,dc hdrs,gsr thrtlebdy,golden eagle fuel rail,b&m fpr,aem cai,aem udrplly,stage2 exedy clutch,aem cam gear(-2deg.)obd1 conv.harn, remap ecu (8700redline)msd sci,msd cap+blaster coil, apexi ws ctbk,s20 tranny, b&m shortthrow..

thats a nice list. Props. i heard the stage 2 cam was a bitchin nice cam. did u use uber to tune with? not sure what the s20 tranny is?

have u taken it to a track or dyno yet? im sure u put down a decent amount of power but it looks like you spent A LOT of cash on that setup.. alot more than it would have taken with FI

thnx, the head was a 1000 with just P&P springs, and cam, but i had to swap the rocker arm assembly,and vtec solenoid, the itm was 250,ecu was 500 with convers. harness, header and exhaust about 800, pulley kit about 100, cam gear another 100, gsr tbody 50, cai bout 200, clutch and tranny bout 800 fuel rail fpr 250...so around 3850, and a greddy kits about 2000-3000, but half the stuff i bought, u would still need to add in for a stock civic i.e. itm/clutch/pulleys....so it evens out..

lol.. i guess i shouldn't even tell u my budget... u'd be sad

itm? s20 tranny? ??

intake manifold, s20...i dunno my boss order it from some guy who gets jdm trannys....but i heard from other ppl its the 92-95...i dunno i got it dirt cheap and it holds up good...2nd gear goes til 75mph

what intake mani did you buy? and the COMMON abbreviation for intake manifold is IM not itm.. itm sounds like your trying to say itb's or something

2nd gear till 75? even on the dx tranny u don't take it much more than 60-65 in 2nd.. but u know that thats slower than the ex tranny. you want shorter gear ratio's for a faster car.. not longer.

i myself am keeping my dx tranny since this is my daily driver so having the tall gears will make easier driving not having to shift every 3 seconds lol. that and adding a mini-me swap, boost and a streetlite fly im sure my gears will feel short enough :iceslolan

have u taken it to the dyno/track yet?

no dyno no track yet, i just got back from illinois, i had to get my car shipped home...itm...im same diffrence spelled backwards...it only goes to 75 because my redline is at 8600, if i shift at 7...i think its around 62-65...buy i keep pulling untill 8600 so i take advantage of it...i smoked the new si's and old ones, gsr's and a couple hb with bseries and hang with the new 05 rsx's prolly go nitrous soon...its pretty quick...ppl dont belive me its a sohc till i pop the hood

im curious, why did u decide to build NA like that but not even touch the bottom end?

not pushin that much to worry about it...plus im broke till i get a new job...im sure it can handle it...i wanna do rods...and high comp. pistons

so u said u've put in almost 4K in engine work ?....interesting

something like that...be more if i didn't do the labor, need 2 get tires cause im not hookin up good, highways nice though

are you anti-FI or ?? did u do any research on boosting your D.. if you did you probably would have noticed thats its alot cheaper then NA.

with 4 grand spread over a hmt kit and pistons and rods you could be running some very serious numbers...
it just seems like you went through a lot of time and money and didn't get as much as you should(na on D just isn't very potent)

i just took a peak at my friends eg, and im gonna de a b18c5 swap, and run that all motor...he's running c1 t3/t4 turbo, and stuff, ran 11.5 @ 130 with stock suspension...he's got alot of extra parts...so i think im done on the d series...might drop that in a hatch for shits and giggles...i was going to FI but when i was in school i had 1500 rent a month...sucks...all the stuff i bought i bought piece by piece, i cant save money for anything but im done with school, so all my money is gonna go for c5 swap
i knoe what a FI D can do...6 psi 190whp, and if i wanted i can boost it now and put done more than that...but it wont be as reliable at b18c5

ahh well ya if your swapping in a c5 don't put anything more into the D.

goodluck with the new project

yup yup...thats what im thinking

lol.. i guess i shouldn't even tell u my budget... u'd be sad

itm? s20 tranny? ??

Hahaha, if that's even enough to call a budget!!!

Seriously though, sohcfreak97, $2000-3000 for a greddy kit...as I said before...not all turbos and kits are created eqaul and greddy kits are among the worsat on the market...for a d-series there's no real reason to buy a kit unless you live in cali where you need a CARB EO number. A good DIY Turbo kit can be done for WELL under $1000, one that will smoke the shit out of greddy or any other kit on market. If someone has a d-series, a limited budget and wants some power kicks, creating the time to do research and learn, and then doing a DIY Turbo kit is the cheapest way to get power for a D-series. If you researched and did it right, it'll be realiable too. I've know of good DIY kits being pieced toghter for a D-series for under $1000.