Our Community is over 1 Million Strong. Join Us.

Grand Future Air Dried Beef Dog Food
Air Dried Dog Food | Real Beef

Grain-Free, Zero Fillers


Clutch/Tranny Question...


bighauns
03-13-2005, 04:12 PM
Hello All!!

Okay, I did my 6-bolt swap and I have a new clutch as well. All has been bled properly and what-not.

My issue is that it seems really hard to put my tranny into first to begin with and quite often 2nd and 3rd while driving. As well, it seems that when I start up and go to back out of my drive way, a lot of the time it will grind when putting it in.

It basically seems as though my clutch just isnt pushed in far enough, but it is slammed RIGHT to the floor and I am basically raising myself up off my seat. Would adjusting the clutch pedal height help this, or what, if so, how do I go about doing that.

Please let me know what you guys think, I would appreciate it.

Peace
~Alex

1stGenRocks
03-13-2005, 06:04 PM
does it shift smoothly if the engine is off?

if it does then it sounds like your clutch height is off. how much freeplay is there when its up? check vfaq or search for the right way to adjust it i know its slightly more complicated then just moving the rod but if i try and tell you i would probably screw it up :biggrin:

bighauns
03-13-2005, 06:15 PM
When the car is off it shifts totally smoothly. I can move the pedal a decent amount before it engages at all, prehaps a little more than ideal.

kjewer1
03-14-2005, 08:09 AM
Its either www.teamrip.com or www.taboospeedshop.com that has some pimp ass clutch adjustment info. Hopefully I didnt pork one of the URLs, but it beats typing it all over again. There is a thread where I explain a shitload of how the clutch adjustments work. Try a search using my username in the appropriate box, and check out those sites.

bighauns
03-14-2005, 09:01 AM
Okay, I did some searching but I am not exactly sure what I need a adjust. As well, I am not really sure how to go about doing so. Would my Haynes manual have a decent write up? Is this a big job? how long do you think it would take. Any and all help would be apprecaited. I just really didn't find a specific answer to what I need to do when I searched.

Thanks!

viet_boiiiii
03-14-2005, 07:03 PM
I had the same exact problem but it was because i burnt my clutch. The shop replaced it with a factory clutch and resurfaced my flywheel. I think u either need a new flywheel or just resurface yours.

dsmodder
03-14-2005, 08:13 PM
i have the same problem. i put the clutch in all the way but its still hard to shift into first from N. often grind 2nd and 3rd even with clutch pedal all the way in. soemtimes even grid when throwing it in reverse(car NOT in motion) and even grind when putting it in 1st from N. i was planning on bleeding hte clutch and doing this vfaq http://www.geocities.com/qwik93awd/Vfaq/shifter.htm

i always assumed my clutch pedal was adjusted fine since i couldnt pull up(toward driver) on it.

bighauns
03-14-2005, 11:07 PM
I have a brand new clutch (not even 1000miles) and a brand new resurfaced flywheel. As well, the cluch line was bled properly, I dont think those are the issues.

Today it seems to shift and act pretty reasonablly

1stGenRocks
03-14-2005, 11:10 PM
what kind of fluid did you use in your trans?

EDIT>>> bighauns check your email

bighauns
03-15-2005, 08:26 AM
I think I am using Castrol Synthetic Gear Oil

Checked it, nothing there. check yours :-)

Erco90Talon
03-15-2005, 10:16 AM
I just did a auto to manual swap and it grinds in 1st and reverse gear i audjsted the nut on the pedal but that didnt help enough so i had a friend weld on to my rod to make it longer or you can buy one off of e-bay for 10 bucks it is a 1/4 longer that will do the trick

dsmodder
03-15-2005, 11:56 AM
areyou talking about the rod in the slave cylinder?

Erco90Talon
03-16-2005, 10:16 AM
i had to add about 1/4 to it for it to disengae the clutch enough so it wouldnt grind either make one outta a hardended steel bolt or but the one off e-bay for ten bucks

kjewer1
03-18-2005, 11:41 AM
If the clutch worked fine before there is no reason to fuck up the master cylinder rod adjustment. Fix the source of the problem. Longer rods are also just bandaids. Unless you have x ray vision you have no way to know for sure that there is no air in that line. Was the flywheel cut to the right step height for the clutch in question? etc.

blue94eagletalon
03-28-2005, 01:15 PM
i agree, i have heard of adding a 1/4 to a 1/2 inch to your rod to your slave cylinder because if you put an aftermarket clutch in your car, which will make your clutch shorter, you need a longer cylinder to puch in the clutch further, to fully release it...... also when you bleed your clutch, push your slave cylinder in all the way by hand so you can bleed it more throughly.then bleed it just by pushing in the clutch. but the first time you bleed it, push it all the way in by hand.

lostmypicks
03-28-2005, 01:57 PM
how long have you had it in there?
not sure but you could just need to break it in if some days it is ok and others not?

Add your comment to this topic!


Quality Real Meat Nutrition for Dogs: Best Air Dried Dog Food | Real Beef Dog Food | Best Beef Dog Food