urgent, need help please

whassup guys?
ok... here's the thing... my car's broke down at starbucks down the street.... and i need to get it out of the parking lot ASAP

it's a 1987 nissan 200sx, 4 cyl, CA20E, auto tranny
has new sparkplugs/wires/dist cap/oil is good,air filter, fuel filter

i cant figure out what's wrong with it...
the starter cranks, you can hear it trying to start, but it wont... batt is good, only thing i see was the number 2&3 start plugs had a small dribble of fuel, and were loose.... but i tightened them....


any suggestions??? please??

thanks,
mai0f

well if it's not the battery... you can't jump start
if it's auto you can roll start... (not sure wat it's called)
unless you find a loose spark plug or something just tow the sucker

roll start an auto??? i thought only sticks could do that?

yeah ive done it on manual atv's but ive never heard of that in an auto before...

yeah...i pushed it home about 1/4 mile with my dad's 84 accord....
i got it to start for like 3 sec, then it just died....
:-(

i changed the distributor cap and rotor the night before, but i was able to drive it to autozone and back that night, then this morning i made it to starbucks and when i got back to my car it just said "Fah-Q"...my wife said maybe someone put something in the gas tank, but you cant open it from outside..... i just filled it up 2 days ago.... (damn $2.07 regular)
i took the distributor cap off tonight and inspected it, and there's no way i can put it on upsidedown......

bah... i'm soooo noob to cars... if anyone has any suggestions, please PM, email, call, knock on my door.... ANYTHING!!!


thank you all much,
mai0f

did you check the rotor again? i had that happen before, if you dont tighten the distributor rotor right, it will come loose, and lose contact with the caps contacts = no worky, it baffled me just the same as you. always start with the last thing you did to the car.

lolz... shiet.. my fault. I meant to type "if it's an auto ... you CAN'T roll start.."

i think i was trying too hard to remember the correct term so i forgot to include the can't. I was trying to make it sound horribly dreadful for mai0f.... haha.

How about ur...uhmmmm...FUEL?? How is the pump?
i mean there are 2 things that i think is wrong with the motor then :
Electrical related Problems
-spark plugs, ECU, weirs... (no ignition)
Fuel related Problems
-injectors, fuel pump, leaks (no fuel)

u did the tune up, and your alternator and starters are ok, so noting else comes to mind. Except for those 2 things I mentioned.

i'll look at the rotor morrow morning...

as for the fuel pump/fuel sys... i hope not....
i dont have too much money to invest in it right now,


mai0f

bah..... nothing, i took the rotor off and inpsected it.... compared it to the old one.... the old one looked like it been through a fire... lol....
used some locktite, it's all clean.....
i also took the batt to autozone to get it charged cuz i drained it pretty bad trying to start it so much...

i know that the rotor turns when i crank it,

hmmm.... how can i check to see if the spark plugs are getting current? i dont have a multimeter....


thanks,
mai0f

just pull one of the plug boots off of a spark plug and put an old plug into it, then lay it on the valve cover or intake so the body is grounded(metal ring touching metal engine part), and turn the motor over wiht ignition, it should spark if its getting power.

well.. i bought a new batt for my car, and it started... i ran it for 10min and it ran a little rough....
later that day i tried starting it and it didn't start....
so i went back to autozone, traded it (4 hours old)and paid $1.06 extra for a batt with 200more cold cranking amps than the other one.....

and still wont start... i thought it was the alt, but it wouldn't start with the better bat...... BAH!!!!!

any suggestinos?

thanks,
mai0f

id check your injectors. my old geo storm, lol P.O.S, anyways it did the same thing and i went through everything you are, i even bought a new pump for it, turns out it was just injectors, oh and then make sure you have got all the plug wires going to the right plug, it might help. but the way you describe it sounds like its not hittin all pistons, so id definately check injectors if you havent done so.

Dude you're grasping at straws here, take a step back and a deep breath.
First off, if it is cranking over then it is not the battery or the alt. You could have saved a chunk of change by not buying a new battery and more cranking amps willnot help the engine run or run better.

Since this started just after your tune up, take everything apart that you did and make sure it goes back together the right way. Even better if you still have the old parts put those back on and see if it works like that.
Barring that is sounds like a fuel problem, unfortunately the money spent on the new battery could have paid for a fuel pump. You will need to check to make sure the fuel pressure is up where it should be, you will need a spec sheet or manual to determine proper pressure. it culd be as simple as changing the fuel filter (you did do that when you changed the ignition parts right?).

Go step by step, it seems like a hassel but you can otherwise spend a ton of cash that could have stayed in your pocket.

1. Retrace steps of tune up, try old parts
2. Check fuel pressure, if low change fuel filter first then go to pump (filters are cheap)
3. Start looking for loose connections everywhere under the hood (perhaps something you accidentally touched, hit, knocked when doing the tune up.

Step by step and stop throwing parts at it.
hoep this helps you out and good luck.

Dude you're grasping at straws here, take a step back and a deep breath.
First off, if it is cranking over then it is not the battery or the alt. You could have saved a chunk of change by not buying a new battery and more cranking amps willnot help the engine run or run better.

Since this started just after your tune up, take everything apart that you did and make sure it goes back together the right way. Even better if you still have the old parts put those back on and see if it works like that.
Barring that is sounds like a fuel problem, unfortunately the money spent on the new battery could have paid for a fuel pump. You will need to check to make sure the fuel pressure is up where it should be, you will need a spec sheet or manual to determine proper pressure. it culd be as simple as changing the fuel filter (you did do that when you changed the ignition parts right?).

Go step by step, it seems like a hassel but you can otherwise spend a ton of cash that could have stayed in your pocket.

1. Retrace steps of tune up, try old parts
2. Check fuel pressure, if low change fuel filter first then go to pump (filters are cheap)
3. Start looking for loose connections everywhere under the hood (perhaps something you accidentally touched, hit, knocked when doing the tune up.

Step by step and stop throwing parts at it.
hoep this helps you out and good luck.

well... the car sat for 6mo without running, and i had to take the batt to autozone two or three time for charging because it wouldn't hold it's charge more than a day or two....
i still have the old distributor cap and rotor, i've compared the old with the new, and they're EXACTLY the same except for the "nissan" logo on the cap and the bar-B-qued inside of the old one... i mean it was BAD....
one thing i did that i'm not sure if it'll affect it is, i put some of that "boot protector" grease that's for the spark plugs in the wires on the distributor cap....

i have changed the fuel filter... the fuel that came out the old one
looked like muddy water..


if i let it sit a while, the fuel line going to the engine can be squeezed, but after i try cranking it, it's hard.... doesn't that mean the fuel pump is good?

but what i dont understand is that it i drove it a good 3-4 times before it just crapped out.....

thanks,
mai0f

The fuel pmp may still pressurize the line but may not be generating enough pressure for the injectors. in other words it still pumps but not enough. correct pressure is important in fuel injected vehicles.

You said the fule that came out of the filter was muddy looking, have you checked the fuel in the tank to make sure it was not the same? If the vehicle sat for any length of time with less than a full tank of fuel then condensation builds up and starts to rust the tank from th inside out. This could account for the colour of the fuel and crap in the filter. The filter may be clogged with rust or the fuel may not be clean enough to sustain running. As well, any particles that get past the filter can clog or damage the injectors.

Siphone some fuel out of the tank and check the colour and for particles. I would also change the filter again and cut the old one open for inspection.

If this turns out to be the problem then you may have to drop the tank to clean it right out. This is a more involved process than it sounds but is neccesary if you want to avoid future problems. If this is the case let me know and I can give you some tips on proper cleaning of the tank.
For future reference never store a vehicle with less than a full tank of gas and add fuel stabilizer before filling so that it mixes well.

Good Luck and keep us informed on how you make out.

The fuel pmp may still pressurize the line but may not be generating enough pressure for the injectors. in other words it still pumps but not enough. correct pressure is important in fuel injected vehicles.

You said the fule that came out of the filter was muddy looking, have you checked the fuel in the tank to make sure it was not the same? If the vehicle sat for any length of time with less than a full tank of fuel then condensation builds up and starts to rust the tank from th inside out. This could account for the colour of the fuel and crap in the filter. The filter may be clogged with rust or the fuel may not be clean enough to sustain running. As well, any particles that get past the filter can clog or damage the injectors.

Siphone some fuel out of the tank and check the colour and for particles. I would also change the filter again and cut the old one open for inspection.

If this turns out to be the problem then you may have to drop the tank to clean it right out. This is a more involved process than it sounds but is neccesary if you want to avoid future problems. If this is the case let me know and I can give you some tips on proper cleaning of the tank.
For future reference never store a vehicle with less than a full tank of gas and add fuel stabilizer before filling so that it mixes well.

Good Luck and keep us informed on how you make out.


i'll take a look at it when i get a change..... i have alot to do today...... but if it is the tank, how difficult do you think it would be for someone who's not very mechanically inclined??


thanks,
mai0f

Have u try checking the Main relay?

Have u try checking the Main relay?


please dont laugh, but what/where is that??
sorry.... i can change a jet engine on a KC-135,
but dont know much about cars. lol..

thanks,
mai0f

The Main relay is a computer chip that control the fuel going into the engine I have 2 of them go out on both my cars and is will not start, but it was fix. The Main relay should be under the steer wheel where the dash is.

The Main relay is a computer chip that control the fuel going into the engine I have 2 of them go out on both my cars and is will not start, but it was fix. The Main relay should be under the steer wheel where the dash is.


so would i have to pull the dash? and when i get to it, how do i check it?

thanks,
mai0f

Could be the relay but I doubt it. You said you got the car to start but then it stopped again, likely not the relay. The relay is just an on/off switch that is activated by a low current wire that allows the high current wire to send power to the fuel pump (that is the one you are talking about right?) That is the main fuel pump relay, there should also be a main ignition relay. I am not sure where they are but if it was them then the car would not atart at all.

Check that fuel! if it is not clear and smells like fresh gas that could very well be the problem.

If you can change a jet engine you can clean the tank out.

Empty the tank of fuel (siphone or an electric pump)
Undo the straps and lower the tank down gently with a floor jack or a couple of buddies.
When you can see the top, undo the fuel lines and electrical connections for the gauge.
Pull the tank out
Pull the sending unit out and empty the rest of the tank.
Drop and chain in the tank and shake the sh%t out of it to loosen the rust up.
Put soap (dishwashing will do) and water in the tank and shake it up again.
Empty the tank out and flush with clean water, empty again.
You should try to find something to seal the tank up after this, a local shop that does tanks should be able to help you. This stuff will seal the metal and inhibat rust from starting again.
Reintall the tank and fill with gas.

Check the fuel condition first as this is a time consuming process only to find out that it was not the problem.
As well if the fuel was really bad you may need a new pump as well but you can test it as stated in an earlier post.

I talking about the Main fuel relay, before the main relay gave out on mine it will not start for 30min. after 30min or trying, it finally start,but after a week later the car didnt start so i change it and it work fine now, but that just my car.

The main relay should be under the dash on the steer wheel.You dont need to tear out the dash to get to it, but try to angle ur body to look under the dash it should say something main relay.

I think u should just call a professional to take a look at it.

it's been rainy here the past couple of days, so i haven't been able to do much...
i'm going to syphon some gas and look at it to see if it's bad.....

as for the main relay, resting my head against the brake peddle, looking up, is it to the right of the steering wheel?

and for a professional, i cant afford that right now.....

thanks all for your help... i really apritiate it..

thanks,
mai0f

it should be to the right its a small box look alike with connecter. hope that helps.....