Passenger Side Power Lock
sanddune
03-07-2005, 04:16 PM
Today my van door on front passenger quit locking and unlocking using the powerswitch on both that door and the drivers side door. The powerlock on drivers side will lock all but that one and the passenger side will lock all but itself. Have to manually do it. Being the nosey person that I am and thinking I can fix something that seemed so small I took off the panel over the switch and the manual lock but saw that I could not see what was possibly causing the problem from there. Any ideas before I take my whole door panel off? When the powerlock switch is used you can see the passenger lock trying to go down or up but does not. It sorta just jumps a tiny bit. Any help would would be appreciated. Thank you in advance
Had to come in and add this.......Now both powerswitch locks are not working. I hear a clicking down by the fuse box area when I try to use the autolock. Having to lock all doors manually now.
Had to come in and add this.......Now both powerswitch locks are not working. I hear a clicking down by the fuse box area when I try to use the autolock. Having to lock all doors manually now.
MR TINKER
10-14-2005, 03:58 PM
Today my van door on front passenger quit locking and unlocking using the powerswitch on both that door and the drivers side door. The powerlock on drivers side will lock all but that one and the passenger side will lock all but itself. Have to manually do it. Being the nosey person that I am and thinking I can fix something that seemed so small I took off the panel over the switch and the manual lock but saw that I could not see what was possibly causing the problem from there. Any ideas before I take my whole door panel off? When the powerlock switch is used you can see the passenger lock trying to go down or up but does not. It sorta just jumps a tiny bit. Any help would would be appreciated. Thank you in advance
Had to come in and add this.......Now both powerswitch locks are not working. I hear a clicking down by the fuse box area when I try to use the autolock. Having to lock all doors manually now.
I HAVE A 99 ASTRO - SAME PROBLEM - ALL LOCKS. DEALER WANTS MANY BUCKOS TO "REPLACE" ALL LOCK MOTOR ASSEMBLIES. THE CAUSE - I THINK - IS THE LOCATION OF THE MANUAL LOCK-UNLOCK SWITCH - RIGHT WHERE YOU LEAN YOUR KNEE AGAINST THE DOOR. BOTH OF US STILL ACTIVATE THE LOCKS WITH OUR KNEE.
THE PROBLEM IS IN THE LOCK ASSEMBLY. IT IS A MOTOR THAT DRIVES A RACK AND PINION THAT PULLS OR PUSHES ON THE LOCKING MECHANISM. THERE IS A BUSS BAR LOOKING PART BETWEEN THE ELECTICAL CONNECTOR AND THE MOTOR THAT CONTAINS A THERMAL RESISTOR. (INCREASES RESISTANCE WHEN IT GETS HOT) IT IS THERE TO PROTECT THE MOTOR IF SOME IDIOT HOLDS THE SWITCH ON TOO LONG. THE RESISTOR GETS SO HOT THAT IT CHANGES IT'S "COLD" RESISTANCE TO A POINT THAT IT LIMITS THE POWER OF THE MOTOR. YOU MAY CHOOSE TO REPLACE THEM WITH GENUINE GM PARTS AND GET THE ORIGIONAL THERMISTER PROTECTION BACK OR IF YOR ARE A FRUGAL (CHEAP) INDIVIDUAL LIKE MYSELF, A 2 OHM WIREWOUND RESISTOR CAN BE SOLDERED ACROSS THE EXISTING THERMISTER TERMINALS. I DID THIS ON ALL MY LOCKS AND THEY HAVE BEEN OPERATING WELL FOR A FEW YEARS. YOU'LL PROBABLY DO SOME QUALITY SWEARING TAKING THE STEEL SHANKED RIVOTS OUT -DRILL OUT HEADS AND USE A HEAVY HAMMER AND PUNCH.
Had to come in and add this.......Now both powerswitch locks are not working. I hear a clicking down by the fuse box area when I try to use the autolock. Having to lock all doors manually now.
I HAVE A 99 ASTRO - SAME PROBLEM - ALL LOCKS. DEALER WANTS MANY BUCKOS TO "REPLACE" ALL LOCK MOTOR ASSEMBLIES. THE CAUSE - I THINK - IS THE LOCATION OF THE MANUAL LOCK-UNLOCK SWITCH - RIGHT WHERE YOU LEAN YOUR KNEE AGAINST THE DOOR. BOTH OF US STILL ACTIVATE THE LOCKS WITH OUR KNEE.
THE PROBLEM IS IN THE LOCK ASSEMBLY. IT IS A MOTOR THAT DRIVES A RACK AND PINION THAT PULLS OR PUSHES ON THE LOCKING MECHANISM. THERE IS A BUSS BAR LOOKING PART BETWEEN THE ELECTICAL CONNECTOR AND THE MOTOR THAT CONTAINS A THERMAL RESISTOR. (INCREASES RESISTANCE WHEN IT GETS HOT) IT IS THERE TO PROTECT THE MOTOR IF SOME IDIOT HOLDS THE SWITCH ON TOO LONG. THE RESISTOR GETS SO HOT THAT IT CHANGES IT'S "COLD" RESISTANCE TO A POINT THAT IT LIMITS THE POWER OF THE MOTOR. YOU MAY CHOOSE TO REPLACE THEM WITH GENUINE GM PARTS AND GET THE ORIGIONAL THERMISTER PROTECTION BACK OR IF YOR ARE A FRUGAL (CHEAP) INDIVIDUAL LIKE MYSELF, A 2 OHM WIREWOUND RESISTOR CAN BE SOLDERED ACROSS THE EXISTING THERMISTER TERMINALS. I DID THIS ON ALL MY LOCKS AND THEY HAVE BEEN OPERATING WELL FOR A FEW YEARS. YOU'LL PROBABLY DO SOME QUALITY SWEARING TAKING THE STEEL SHANKED RIVOTS OUT -DRILL OUT HEADS AND USE A HEAVY HAMMER AND PUNCH.
MR TINKER
10-14-2005, 04:14 PM
Today my van door on front passenger quit locking and unlocking using the powerswitch on both that door and the drivers side door. The powerlock on drivers side will lock all but that one and the passenger side will lock all but itself. Have to manually do it. Being the nosey person that I am and thinking I can fix something that seemed so small I took off the panel over the switch and the manual lock but saw that I could not see what was possibly causing the problem from there. Any ideas before I take my whole door panel off? When the powerlock switch is used you can see the passenger lock trying to go down or up but does not. It sorta just jumps a tiny bit. Any help would would be appreciated. Thank you in advance
Had to come in and add this.......Now both powerswitch locks are not working. I hear a clicking down by the fuse box area when I try to use the autolock. Having to lock all doors manually now.
I HAVE A 99 ASTRO - SAME PROBLEM - ALL LOCKS. DEALER WANTS MANY BUCKOS TO "REPLACE" ALL LOCK MOTOR ASSEMBLIES. THE CAUSE - I THINK - IS THE LOCATION OF THE MANUAL LOCK-UNLOCK SWITCH - RIGHT WHERE YOU LEAN YOUR KNEE AGAINST THE DOOR. BOTH OF US STILL ACTIVATE THE LOCKS WITH OUR KNEE.
THE PROBLEM IS IN THE LOCK ASSEMBLY. IT IS A MOTOR THAT DRIVES A RACK AND PINION THAT PULLS OR PUSHES ON THE LOCKING MECHANISM. THERE IS A BUSS BAR LOOKING PART BETWEEN THE ELECTICAL CONNECTOR AND THE MOTOR THAT CONTAINS A THERMAL RESISTOR. (INCREASES RESISTANCE WHEN IT GETS HOT) IT IS THERE TO PROTECT THE MOTOR IF SOME IDIOT HOLDS THE SWITCH ON TOO LONG. THE RESISTOR GETS SO HOT THAT IT CHANGES IT'S "COLD" RESISTANCE TO A POINT THAT IT LIMITS THE POWER OF THE MOTOR. YOU MAY CHOOSE TO REPLACE THEM WITH GENUINE GM PARTS AND GET THE ORIGIONAL THERMISTER PROTECTION BACK OR IF YOR ARE A FRUGAL (CHEAP) INDIVIDUAL LIKE MYSELF, A 2 OHM WIREWOUND RESISTOR CAN BE SOLDERED ACROSS THE EXISTING THERMISTER TERMINALS. I DID THIS ON ALL MY LOCKS AND THEY HAVE BEEN OPERATING WELL FOR A FEW YEARS. YOU'LL PROBABLY DO SOME QUALITY SWEARING TAKING THE STEEL SHANKED RIVOTS OUT -DRILL OUT HEADS AND USE A HEAVY HAMMER AND PUNCH.
Had to come in and add this.......Now both powerswitch locks are not working. I hear a clicking down by the fuse box area when I try to use the autolock. Having to lock all doors manually now.
I HAVE A 99 ASTRO - SAME PROBLEM - ALL LOCKS. DEALER WANTS MANY BUCKOS TO "REPLACE" ALL LOCK MOTOR ASSEMBLIES. THE CAUSE - I THINK - IS THE LOCATION OF THE MANUAL LOCK-UNLOCK SWITCH - RIGHT WHERE YOU LEAN YOUR KNEE AGAINST THE DOOR. BOTH OF US STILL ACTIVATE THE LOCKS WITH OUR KNEE.
THE PROBLEM IS IN THE LOCK ASSEMBLY. IT IS A MOTOR THAT DRIVES A RACK AND PINION THAT PULLS OR PUSHES ON THE LOCKING MECHANISM. THERE IS A BUSS BAR LOOKING PART BETWEEN THE ELECTICAL CONNECTOR AND THE MOTOR THAT CONTAINS A THERMAL RESISTOR. (INCREASES RESISTANCE WHEN IT GETS HOT) IT IS THERE TO PROTECT THE MOTOR IF SOME IDIOT HOLDS THE SWITCH ON TOO LONG. THE RESISTOR GETS SO HOT THAT IT CHANGES IT'S "COLD" RESISTANCE TO A POINT THAT IT LIMITS THE POWER OF THE MOTOR. YOU MAY CHOOSE TO REPLACE THEM WITH GENUINE GM PARTS AND GET THE ORIGIONAL THERMISTER PROTECTION BACK OR IF YOR ARE A FRUGAL (CHEAP) INDIVIDUAL LIKE MYSELF, A 2 OHM WIREWOUND RESISTOR CAN BE SOLDERED ACROSS THE EXISTING THERMISTER TERMINALS. I DID THIS ON ALL MY LOCKS AND THEY HAVE BEEN OPERATING WELL FOR A FEW YEARS. YOU'LL PROBABLY DO SOME QUALITY SWEARING TAKING THE STEEL SHANKED RIVOTS OUT -DRILL OUT HEADS AND USE A HEAVY HAMMER AND PUNCH.
chcknugget
10-24-2005, 01:07 PM
The rivits are a pain. But a new door lock actuator is only $24 bucks at autozone. All you need is that and a few nuts and bolts to replace the rivets and it's easy.
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