I need your opinion guys! Help!

Okay so i just got my tax return and i have two grand to spend.... So the first thing im going to buy is a DP and a new brake setup cause my brakes and rotors are at the end of their life and its already illegally cut. So i need your opinion on some things. Well here is the DP im looking at

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=33630&item=7958706748&rd=1&ssPageName=WDVW

What do you guys think? Will it work for me? Also am i gonna need a flange to hook up to the exhaust mani and/or the catback? Also, is it pretty easy to install because i have emissions and i need to take it off and put it back on every three years i think.

Here are the rotors and pads.
http://turboimport.com/catalog/eclipse.htm

Good deal? Ive installed pads before but never rotors, do you think it will be fairly easy?

Thanks A lot guys! I appreciate it!

you should use the rest of it to do some fuel system upgrades , so you can strap on a bigger turbo! the DP looks good 2.5in should be good and thoes brakes look good also , just make sure to replace the pads while your under there...

you should use the rest of it to do some fuel system upgrades , so you can strap on a bigger turbo! the DP looks good 2.5in should be good and thoes brakes look good also , just make sure to replace the pads while your under there...

Oh definately the fuel upgrade, im just buying things step by step....I have to make the money last to summer till i start working again. But after these two purchases im trying to work a deal with 95eclipsegst for his safc2 and pocketlogger then im gonna upgrade the fuel system.

Does anyone know about sem-imetallic brake pads? I wanna know if they squeel or not, and if they do anyone recommend a good brake pad set that doesnt squeel like a virgin?

my semi metallic pads don't squeal.

Sweet man thanks. Now about the downpipe, do i need any flanges for it? Do you guys recommend this dp im trying to cut as many corners i can on y setup....

most generic downpipes fit to the stock o2 housing and catitlitic converter. you'll need the 2 gaskets and thats about it. wether or not your going to need a new flange its really impossable to tell untell it's mounted to the car. but i significantly doubt it.

most generic downpipes fit to the stock o2 housing and catitlitic converter. you'll need the 2 gaskets and thats about it. wether or not your going to need a new flange its really impossable to tell untell it's mounted to the car. but i significantly doubt it.

So scotsee i remember that you actually posted a question about the ebay dp and asked if it was a good deal. Have you bought one? Do you think its a good deal and that the dp is actually efficient?

This is a good deal on brakes but I found Brembo brakes that were on sale too. I dont know if any of you guyz like brembo but the rottors were yeallow since covered with ( i forgot name some kind of protectant to last longer) and ONLY drilled. I heard that if you buy rotors slotted and drilled they will eat your break pads really really fast. I like brembo so I would get em but these deals are not bad.

i would be worried about the fact that they don't tell you what brand of pads they're sending you. Remember, good pads are a hell of alot more important than any rotors you could put on it. Also, pads that offer good performance are usually loud. If someone claims to have pads that are quiet and good, then they've never driven with truly good pads.

no, i bent all my intake valves on my 97 hyundai elantra when replacing my cam chain. so i had spend over $500 replacing the head. sigh.

The DP looks fine. Seems to neck down for the stock cat. In my opinion though, running a stock cat, or even a stock sized flange, defeats most of the purpose of upgrading. I still feel that a full turbo back (including high flow cat if necessary) is a much better use of your money, even though you spend a bot more upfront. Do it once, do it right, no regrets. Doing this also allows you to drop the ENTIRE stock exhaust in one piece (no dealing with rest-welded bolts), so if you do have to go back to stock for emissions (the high flow cat should be enough though in most states, if not all) its much easier. Two nuts at the DP, and some rubber hangers. ;)

Brakes and rotors is a whole other story. The short version: I like the fact that those rotors are NOT drilled. Drilled rotors will crack under heavy use. Many people can get away with them on the street, but I would avoid them just because of that small chance that they could crack. Safety first. ;) Dimpled is ok. It wont do as much as drilled through holes potentially, and it takes away from frcition surface area, but it can still help. I run slotted only fronts, and they eliminated the fade problem I had from high speed stops. 120 to 60 was fine on the stock rotors, but the last 60 to 0 was extremely unpredictable and dangerous. With the slotted rotors (powerslots? got them from bushur years ago) 120 to 0 is consistent and predictable. The pads have some effect on this. Good quality race pads, maybe even semis, will outgas less at high temperature reducing the need (and advantage) of slotted rotors. Wait a minute! what happend to "short version!" Dammit all. I'm stopping here. I may have posted more in the past, not sure. I know I have on other forums...