Maintenance Info (long)

Since there's no maintenance section.....


I would like to get some maintenance information circulating about the Xterra. I was known as the "maintenance guru" for the Tacoma, and would like to become knowledgeable on the Xterra. I'd like to share some information from my research that will apply to all vehicles.

I've found the best oil filter readily available to be the Mobil 1. It's quite pricey but has synthetic filter media, anti drainback valve, filter small particles, and a high pressure capacity. I choose to use the Puralator Pure One as it's about 98% as good as the Mobil 1, and is half the cost. it also has synthetic filter media and a silicone anti drainback valve. If you're using a Fram filter, change it tomorrow and never buy another one! I've often referenced THIS (http://www.frankhunt.com/FRANK/corvette/articles/oilfilterstudy/oilfilterstudy.html) for oil filter information. It's an independant study and the guy is doing an excellent job.

For oil, I recommend 10W30 for conventional oil, unless you live in an extremely cold area, in which case 5W30 should be used. The smaller the difference between the two numbers the better the oil will hold up. This is true for conventional oils only, as synthetics are molecularly different, such as Amsoil 0W30. Synthetics are excellent oils, but the price just isn't justified for me at this time when conventional can be ran for 5,000 miles or more with no problems. For a ton of oil information look HERE (http://www.rconcepts.com/beard/dragnet/drag/oilinfo.html). This guy has a lot of good info, except for the 3,000 mile oil change recomendation. That's just typical Jiffy Lube brain washing.

Having your oil tested occasionally is also a good idea. I was introduced to this last year and have been really happy with the results. I have been using a company called Oil Analyzers to do my tests. They have excellent customer service, and their reports are easy to understand. I'd like to get a database together of oil reports using various oils, filters, and change intervals so we can determine the best to use. I started one on the Tacoma and it was quite helpful. To see what's involved in testing your oil check out an article I wrote on the process HERE (http://www.tn-tacomas.com/maintenance/TacomaOilAnalysis.html). It's very easy and I have a buddy who can get us kits quickly for about $20.00 and this includes shipping both ways as well as the report. If your interested in participating in this let me know. I'll setup a webpage for the reports. I recommend testing the brand of oil you use fresh from the bottle to get a base line, then again after 3,000, 5,000, and 7,500 miles to determine how long the oil will last. Then you can compare before and after reports as well as see the reports against other oils straight from the bottle.

Finally, there's antifreeze. There's not much more I can add to what THIS (http://popularmechanics.com/automotive/sub_care_sat/1997/10/flush_cooling_system/print.phtml) has to say.

Sorry this is so long.:) :)

This stuff popped up on XOC last month, from another Toyota owner.

Oil Analyzers is actually AmSoil, Inc. so they may be a bit biased.

Why is Fram still in business if their oil filters are so bad ?

Originally posted by xoc
This stuff popped up on XOC last month, from another Toyota owner.

Oil Analyzers is actually AmSoil, Inc. so they may be a bit biased.

Why is Fram still in business if their oil filters are so bad ?

Oil Analyzers just does the testing for Amsoil.

Fram has good marketing and their orange filters must attract attention. They're rated one of the worst.

I have run Fram oil filters for years and have never had a problem. However, I am switching to Wixx because they are more available and closer to wear I live.

As for the oil, filters they usually become clogged within 500 miles. So you make the call. The key to oil and oil filters, IMO, is changing the oil at regular intervals. :sun:

Originally posted by DeFibVT
I have run Fram oil filters for years and have never had a problem. However, I am switching to Wixx because they are more available and closer to wear I live.

As for the oil, filters they usually become clogged within 500 miles. So you make the call. The key to oil and oil filters, IMO, is changing the oil at regular intervals. :sun:

Wixx are pretty good. I've read somewhere they they are made by Champion, or vice versa.

I don't think a filter becomes clogged within 500 miles. If that were the case the filter would burst. Not to mention the oil analysis I've had done show otherwise. After 5,000 miles AND running a K&N filter on my Tacoma, I only had 13ppm of dirt content in my dino oil, and my viscosity was still well above acceptable levels. Oil testing is the best way to determine what works and what doesn't. I plan on using using Castrol GTX 10W30 and a Puralator Pure One filter as that seems to be the best bang for the buck. I'll have my oil tested and see how the numbers look. Every engine design is different. 5,000 miles was ok on a Tacoma V6, and it appeared 7,500 miles was as well, but the Nissan 3.3L V6 could be different. Changing oil at 3,000 miles is just a waste of natural resources as well as money. Current technology makes those intervals no longer necessary.

I also used to run Fram filters before I knew better. I had a lot more lifter noise etc with those. Then I started doing research and found out that the paper media in Fram filters has a tendancy to come apart during use. I even had a Fram fail on me once. The gasket was faulty and it blew shooting oil all over my garage. Fram is probably one of the worst filters you can use. I'm suprised you guys weren't aware of that. It was common knowledge on the Toyo board. For only $2.00 more why not use a better filter like the Puralator?

Mobil 1 filters are the best, but they're also pricey. I used to run that on my Taco, and it cost me $10.00 a filter. After I have my oil tested with the Puralator I'll make a determination as to whether or not it's worth the extra cost. The Puralator is around $5.00 locally.

Fram uses cardboard end caps too. Reason people buy them is they are cheap and sold everywhere. I use either genuine Nissan filters or Wix myself. I run my filters 4-5K miles and my oil 8-10K. I also use either Mobil 1 or Amsoil 5W-30. I change the filter halfway through the oil cycle because it's so tiny and I question it's ability to filter much beyond that. The oil can easily go more miles, so I'm playing on the safe side. Since I change my oil and run it extended periods, the cost is very low running synthetic; especially since the Xterra only holds 3.5 quarts.

I agree that the 3K mile interval is something the oil changing places and oil companies pulled out of their asses. Oil tests prove that it is unnecessary and even some manufacturers have extended the intervals. For example, Audi uses 7500 mile intervals for it's scheduled maintenence. The US is probably the only country that does the 3K mile thing. We are a country of excess and waste to the highest degree.

The only thing I would suggest is that you consider using 5W-30. That's what Nissan specs for the Xterra. 10W-30 is fine for warmer temperatures and probably fine in general, but I would use what they specify. But, as long as it doesn't get cold where you live, running the 10W-30 won't hurt. You might try Kendall oil too for Dino. It's the only dino I would use if not for synthetics and the only Dino oil my Audi/Porsche guy would use in a Porsche. My Dad was a mechanic too and used Kendall, so I used it for many years before switching to synthetics.

Make sure you change out your differential amd transmission fluids before 30K miles. Many people are doing it at 15K. There are a lot of metal shaving created in the early miles and mine were loaded. At the second time there wasn't any.

I agree that in most cases engine oil will last much longer than what is specified in the manual for the changing frequency but if you don't use their recommended frequency can't they void your warranty? Just wondering.

Now I can't comment on the mechanical aspects of using 5W30 vs 10W30 but I can comment on the chemical nature of these two and the viscosity changes rapidly with temperature. So unless you live in a climate where the temperature virtually never goes below 32 deg. F then I would recommend staying with the 5W30 because the 10W30 can turn to paste if it gets too cold for an extended period of time and if it is in that state when you start your engine you are far more likely to cause engine damage at this point until it warms up again. And since we all agree that engine oil appears to last longer then the recommended anyway why not maintain your temperature protection, because you never know when you might take that cross Alaska, Yukon, BC or Alberta trip.

My 2 cents,

SarnX.

Nissan specs a 7500-mile oil and filter change interval for the Xterra as well. Admittedly, it's schedule 2, where none of the following occur:
Repeated short trips of less than 5 miles (8 km).
Repeated short trips of less than 10 miles (16 km) with outside temperatures remaining below freezing.
Operating in hot weather in stop-and-go “rush hour” traffic.
Extensive idling and/or low speed driving for long distances, such as police, taxi or door-to-door delivery use.
Driving in dusty conditions.
Driving on rough, muddy, or salt spread roads.
Towing a trailer, using a camper or a car-top carrier.

How many of us can claim that? Probably none, but it is an example of a factory-blessed 7500 mile oil change interval, from Nissan. Every 3000 miles is not an absolute rule of thumb by any means.

I run Mobil 1 at a 5000 mile interval, and I change my Nissan filter ever 2500 miles.

Brent

The great oil debate has raged many times, seems it always comes down to Amsoil and Mobil1.
I guess you get what you pay for.


On a related note:
Since I heard so many great things about Amsoil I switched from Mobil1 for one oil change.
So far I'm dissapointed. Mobil1 always seems to hold out longer, Amsoil is already getting dark (I know its not proof of a problem but it doesn't look as good a Mobil1 2 weeks into it).
And is the Amsoil filter supposed to be shorter than the Nissan sized filters???

I worked for a machine shop for a couple years out of high school. I saw many an engine that had owners that whined about changing oil so often... their engines were all gummed up because either they didn't change oil often enough or because they used crappy oil/filters. The best one I saw was the machinists daughters that we pulled apart after about 80K miles. (she got water in it and it bent a rod). She ran Castrol GTX and changed it religiously ever 3k (with Fram filters). It looked like new... well except for the bent rod ;)

Ive been using Castrol ever since. I was delighted to find out that my Nissan dealer uses Castrol as well (in my free oil changes).

There is no excuse for trying to get extra miles from any oil... Change it regularly and you will be blessed with a better running and longer lasting engine.

-Earl

I can't find a purolator pure 1 part number for the X. I find a regular purolator filter but not the Pure One. Thats the filter I used on my full size GMC truck. What's the number?
Thanks,

Originally posted by Aythya
I can't find a purolator pure 1 part number for the X. I find a regular purolator filter but not the Pure One. Thats the filter I used on my full size GMC truck. What's the number?
Thanks,

After doing some research on the Xterra and calling Purolator, I found they do not have a "PureOne" available for the Xterra at this time. I guess I'm gonna use the Mobil 1 in mine. Too bad it costs $12.00.

This idea that Fram filters keeps popping up in Forums. Several years ago Consumer Reports rated Fram the best oil filter. Since they are pretty objective I tend to believe them. Been using Fram for years and never have a problem with Fram.