Fuse Diagrams 1988 Premier

I'm having a couple problems with my 1988 Eagle Premier LX..

The speedometer doesn't work, the windshield wipers dont work and some of the lights on the dash dont work.. I want to check the fuses and see if thats the problem, but I don't know what goes where..

I need a fuse diagram.

Thanks in advance.

-Nick-

K, Mine's an '89, but it should be the same.

As you look at the fuse panel [remember it is mounted in a way that you have to sort of view it from the driver's seat heading toward the firewall]

Anyway from that viewpoint, starting at the top of the block, looking at the Farthest R hand fuse closest to you and then looking down the rows towards the firewall~~~~~~~~

Circuit Breakers
1 6 11 16
N/A N/A N/A Rear Defog Headlamp

2 7 12 17
Heat Auto Stop Interior PowerSeats
A/C Trans Turn Lamps PowerLocks
TripComp Hazard
Rem. Mirrors
Radio
Chime
Clock

3 8 13 18 APS
Backup TripComp Panel Horn
Monitor Illum. Stop
RearDefog Lamp
Backups Switch
Clock
Ignition

4 9 14 19 Wiper
Vanity Lamp Panel APS Washer
Lamp Control Illum.
Clock

5 10 15 20 Power
Radio Heater Cluster Stop Windows
Cigar Cluster Turn
Lighter

Now, as you view the block itself, think of this diagram as the L side of this diagram pointing up and towards you, and the R side of this diagram pointing down and away from you.

#'s 2, 19 are live battery feed fuses, always live.

#'s 8, 9 are only active with ignition on [but not necessarilly running].

Hope this helps a bit, the3 block has to be in the most inconvenient place and is damn hard to read.

Well, apparently the forum wouldn't support the method I used, But there are 4 fuse openings per row, immediately followed by a circuit breaker can.

F it, first row is N/A N/A N/A Rear defog, the breaker is Headlamp.

Second row is heat,A/C Rem. mirrors, Radio, clock
2nd fuse is Auto Trans, 3rd is stop-turn-hazard, 4th is Interior lamps, breaker is powerseats/locks

Third row is Backups, 2nd fuse is tripcomp, monitor, Rear Defog, backups, clock, 3rd fuse is Panel Illumination, 4th is horn,Stoplampswitch, the breaker is APS

Fourth row is Vanity lamps, 2nd fuse is lamp control, 3rd is panel illumination and clock, 4th is APS, the breaker is wiper/washer

Fifth row is radio/cigar lighter, 2nd fuse is heater cluster, 3rd fuse is cluster[panel lighting], 4th is stop/turn and the breaker is power windows.

thanks alot man, it's much appreciated, yeah the damn fuse box is in the most inconvienient place for sure.

i checked it out, it's not the problem, i gotta get a motor for the windshield wipers.

I've got a '90 Premier ES. Wipers aren't working. I turn on the switch and can hear a click coming from behind the glovebox. Do you know where the wiper relay is located? The underhood relay cover is missing plus the passenger-side underdash relay cover contains no legend, so I can't identify any relays. I figure I should try replacing the relay before the wiper motor, unless you think the clicking indicates that it's working.
Another problem is an ignition short. It usually works fine, but this problem frequents when the engine is warm. All the bells and whistles will work when the key is turned, but the starter won't even click. Luckily, turning the key repeatedly or slamming the hood has gotten it to turn over. Before replacing the starter (looks difficult to access when I'm changing the oil), is there a starter relay or other easy culpret?

Weaver, hang tight, I have the relay diagram for ya, but ya have to wiat a day until I can text it up for ya

but, initially one of a few things happened re the wiper.

First, does the regular low-high work? If so, not likely the switch itself.

Second, since ya hear a click, the relay is problemming on ya, ya should never hear a click from a good relay.

Third, I 'll point the relay box out to ya ASAP.

Relay panel, under glove box area of dash



TOWARDS PASSENGER SEAT

Relay panel, under glove box area of dash



TOWARDS PASSENGER SEAT

E D C B A
not used HiBeam LoBeam RearDefog power antenna

F G H J K
not used horn radiolamp parkinglights not used

TOWARDS ENGINE

As ya can see, no relay for wipers at that location. However, there is a circuit breaker for the wipe-wash, small silver plug in rectangular can.

Location, fuse panel, see my text earlier this thread to find out which one it is

GL, Tam

Re the starter, since it seems slamming hood or key jiggling does the trick, one of two or three possibles,

And, yeah, the starter is a bear placement, sigh

Anyhoo'

Check the wires at the starter, ensure clean and tight connection

Check the wires for any worn insulation that exposes wires to a ground.

Starter itself may be toasting. check starter by~~~

1 ensure battery is in good condition
2 disable ignition, by unpluggingcoil pack, either pull the wiring plug harness off, or pull the coil wire AT BOTH ENDS
3 voltmeter btween battery positive terminal and starter B+ circuit, I can only tell ya there should be a red and green/white wire, which may be B+, no idea. But the red wire is direct from battery to starter [+] terminal. The green/white, finally lands after the starter relay, which is fed of the ignition switch, grren wire from ignition to starter relay, but again no idea where the relay is [expect it under dash]

Be watchful, the starter relay diagram shows a branch of the grn/wht wire out of the starter relay to both the starter itself and the ECM.

Nutshell, from the two starter wires at starter heading out

Red wire goes direct to battery
Grn/wht goes direct to starter relay, wherever it is, and a grn/wht wire branches back from relay to the ECM [under passenger dash]
from relay up, one green wire to the ignition switch itself, re the starter activation.

voltmeter at + battery terminal and one of the two starter wires [B+] circuit. since the red wire is direct and voltage is measured across + -, I presume it is the grn/wht wire at the starter. I may be wrong!!!!!

Ignition key to start only position, should see less than 0.5V, if more, then problem in starter cable or starter ground.

Voltmeter at Battery + terminal and starter M circuit, again peekaboo with which starter wire, ignition START only, if V is 0.5 or above, replace starter.

Either wire at starter showing 0.5 V or more
at START only, it your starter or starter cables.

Wanna talk about your neutral start-switch, LOL?? ayep, it in the mix too.

I hope this may help somewhat

Oh, also check strter ground , ensure it tight against flywheel housing, and same for any grounding wire that threads off starter [although diagram doesn't show one]

also, look for a red separate wire from Batt. + terminal heading to starter, ensure the batt. connection is solid and tight

Thanks for the detail, and sorry for not getting back on here sooner (my home computer is cr*p, so I have to use work when time allows). The wipers won't work in any switch position but the washer squirts, so I assume I'm definitely looking at a relay or motor instead of the circuit breaker. Since the relay apparently isn't in the underdash relay cluster, it must be somewhere by its lonesome within the glovebox area. Do you know if it's common for relays to not be in cluster boxes? Just hope to avoid a wild goosechase, but that clicking is very definite.
I'm up for an oil change soon, so I'll look more carefully at the starter wiring while I'm under there. Have you actually replaced the starter on your Premier? If so, how involved was it?

yeah dude, i have that problem too, the wipers dont work, but squirts fluid.

hey Knifeblade, do you have AIM or Yahoo or MSN or somethin' like that? 'cause like, so far you've been my "car-god" haha, fuckin', if you think i could hit you up, tha'd be great.

Nope, thankfully, haven't had to, but my chilton's describes it, chilton manual # 20384, and it not too bad. Three bolts only, but it all Underside of ride removal. It doesn't describe how to disconnect the wiring. You will need a long extension for a bolt or two, you have to acces a bolt, maybe two from a frame or brace-hole. You may also have to figure out how to remove a heat shield. Chilton says it only a clamp, and not all Eagle's have the shield.

If ya plan on pulling, I can detail it via Chilton's a bit more, with torque spec.'s, etc. but it seems an under the car pull-out.

Yo, guys, feel free to email anytime at tt_48750@yahoo.com or my gmail [preferred] at tam.tt48750@gmail.com. I usually scan emials after work, so expect some lag, but I'll try to help

Old-time trick to see if wiper motor is toast~~~~

First, ya have to pull the cover cowl, plastic screws, 3/4 turn to release, should expose motor. I f ya can see the harness, unplug it. take two wires, one each off of each battery terminal, and quickly jump the motor terminals, cross the wires to the terminals once or twice, to see if the motor runs. If the otor doesn't activate, motor is toast.

WARN!!!!!! This method will likely start the motor, if it good, into full hi-speed wiper mode, so stay away from the wipers or motor as best ya can.

Do NOT hold the jumpers on motor any longer that to try to trigger the motor.

If the wipers pump fluid out, but the wiper swith won't turn the wipers on-off, then it is the console mounted lever that is toasting. There is a back-yarder way to at least activate low speed cycle, bypassing the switch itself, but first use the above post to ensure the motor itself is still good.

It would be useful re this issue if one of you start a new thread here,so we don't overload this thread and find it closed or unmanageable to follow.

hah, i was out in my garage today, looking around.. found a chilton's, for the premier, apperantly my brother used it for his sundance, how fuckin' fortunate :8-)

Jumping the battery to the motor... duh, what a great idea! As for a new thread, I'll try but this is my first time ever using chat outside of regular e-mail. Actually, when I originally found your profile, it was mixed in with TONS of other comments regarding Premiers, but I haven't found my way back there :(

My new thread is going to deal with old-time tricks, so check it out, I'll start posting more back-yarder stuff soon.

Tam