Car/audio problems

question... a guy was installing a cd player on my 99 saturn, and the radios power fuse blew out. so i went to get a new one, then came back, and he finished installing the cd player. when we finally put the cd player in, we turned the key, just so accesories would turn on, so the cd player would work. The CD player had no power running to it, and then the car wouldnt start at all. everything worked fine (lights, windows, locks etc.) but the car would not even make a sound to start. its not the battery because we tried jump starting it. ANY IDEAS???

you blew a fuse somewhere else too .... look under the hood, follow to where the wire from the + side of the battery goes

you blew a fuse somewhere else too .... look under the hood, follow to where the wire from the + side of the battery goes

Ummm, If it doesn't even make a noise like it's trying to crank to start...it's gotte be something with the Ignition. Make sure he didn't fuck with the ignition wire when installing the CD player. peace

NG

Hey,
What year is your car on a lot of the newer vehicles there is a chip in the key that has to be read inorder for the car to start but everything else will still work properly. if he blew a fuse that goes to the reader that could cause it, depending on how badly he messed up when he shorted the wires he might have even fried it (just a thought). hope that isnt the problem

you are all dumbasses ;)
often times when doing audio work and you blow a fuse it causes a swtich in the EMS to make it where the engine will not start. pull all the fuses (one at a time, you dont want get confused) and plug them back in (checking visually if they are blown while doing this)

Dont feel bad if this happens to you.

we where out off roading in a friend of mines truck, he hit a big rut and the GD inline fuse blew on the stereo so on the next clearing we stoped, turned the truck off, and poped the hood to replace the fuse. we replaced it and turned the ignition on and it blew agian. so we looked at the amp and it turned out the (+) and (-) had shorted togather. so we fixed that and replaced the fuse agian, trued to turn the motor over.... holy shit it wouldnt start, we dont have a CB, and we are 15 miles out in the middle of nowhere. well we pulled fuses and pluged them back in, every single ignition fuse. none apeared to be blown. then i was like im going to try it just for the hell of it. it cranked right up. when we got home i asked the auto mecanics teacher how this could have happened. he says on newer vehicles when something electrical goes wrong the EMS has a tendency to go into lock down mode. sort of like an amp goes into protect, to prevent any damage to the ECU. to reset this swtich you can either pull the fuse on the Main Ignition ECU or just remove positive batery terminal and replace it.

if it still doesnt start. and it isnt even trying to turn over, check the power wire to the starter. have someoen stand outside when you try to crank it. if they hear a relay poping it may be that he F'd up some relays while Fing up your CD player and shorting it out.

gosh, if only I could be a teenager again ..... so I could know everything (or at least think I do)

gosh, if only I could be a teenager again ..... so I could know everything (or at least think I do)

:D yeah... i wish too..,

NG

hahaha, your so funny, too bad im right this time ;)

hahaha, your so funny, too bad im right this time ;)

I told him it was an ignition problem FOO!

NG

but you didnt tell him what to do about it Foo!!11!!!1!
Mazda pWNZZ JOO!1!1!

I didn't even bother to read the rest of the post - when you start off with "you are all dumbasses" ..... most people just tune you out. Probably why you like to run off at the mouth, cuz no one listens to you. Just something you will learn when you a mature a bit.

you are all dumbasses ;)
often times when doing audio work and you blow a fuse it causes a swtich in the EMS to make it where the engine will not start. pull all the fuses (one at a time, you dont want get confused) and plug them back in (checking visually if they are blown while doing this)

Dont feel bad if this happens to you.

we where out off roading in a friend of mines truck, he hit a big rut and the GD inline fuse blew on the stereo so on the next clearing we stoped, turned the truck off, and poped the hood to replace the fuse. we replaced it and turned the ignition on and it blew agian. so we looked at the amp and it turned out the (+) and (-) had shorted togather. so we fixed that and replaced the fuse agian, trued to turn the motor over.... holy shit it wouldnt start, we dont have a CB, and we are 15 miles out in the middle of nowhere. well we pulled fuses and pluged them back in, every single ignition fuse. none apeared to be blown. then i was like im going to try it just for the hell of it. it cranked right up. when we got home i asked the auto mecanics teacher how this could have happened. he says on newer vehicles when something electrical goes wrong the EMS has a tendency to go into lock down mode. sort of like an amp goes into protect, to prevent any damage to the ECU. to reset this swtich you can either pull the fuse on the Main Ignition ECU or just remove positive batery terminal and replace it.

if it still doesnt start. and it isnt even trying to turn over, check the power wire to the starter. have someoen stand outside when you try to crank it. if they hear a relay poping it may be that he F'd up some relays while Fing up your CD player and shorting it out.

WOW imagin that some one who knows it all hell I sell and peofessionally install car audio equipment for a living (actually own my own business) and for some reason I didnt know that you should strip all the wires at once or connect the wires on the harnesses while they are attached to the head unit. GO FIGURE of course maybe thats why when I install a system I dont blow fuses or screw up peoples rides! Oh yah and if you MOUNT the amplifier and TIGHTEN the conections then there is no reason the wires on the amp should disconnect and short out. HMMM just a thought "if its worth doing its worth doing RIGHT" why spend all that money on equipment and then just Jerry rig it in? so now that I have said that I will say that I do hope your right as to the solution to the problem but the truth is that when you go shorting out wires there's no telling what your going to screw up and shorting out a wire that is hooked directly to the battery and shorting one conected with the rest of the wires in the dash can have TOTALLY different effects.

for a person with 2 posts maybe you should be quiet. Paul knew i was kidding (hopefully) about the dumbasses thing and i wasnt the one who isntalled the system. It was the local audio shop, it wasnt my truck and where did you get the idea that i striped all the wires or w/e?
if you knew me and what most of my posts are like i kid around alot but there is often good info in there. and if there isnt then ngsm is a smart ass about it and Bumpin and SR20 come in and correct me. If you only knew....

hey,
Didnt mean to pi$$ you off if you were only joking around but i take pride in the work that I do and dont appreciate being called a dumbass. and the remark about stripping the wires was because I really dont know how your going to short it out if your doing it correctly (strip one wire then crimp the connector then move to the next when your done hook the harness to the factory harness then to the back of the head unit or with amps dont put the fuse in untill your done so there is no power supplied to the unit) when I'm done with an install nothing moves so wires dont disconnect. The reason I directed this towards you is not because I thought you did the install but because you said that it is common and it is NOT unless you dont know what you are doing. in which case a person should take the time to learn. Dont let the fact that I only have 2 posts fool you its not how much you can run your mouth to make a lot of posts its all about how much you actually know!

i was refering to your posts because you dont know me.
It doesnt matter what shorts out, it could be a stock light bulb being submerged in water causing the short, if it blows a fuse and creates a big enough shock to the system it is common that the EMS will shut itsself off. Thats what i was calling common, not shorts happening from installs....

cool lets not junk up this thread if you have a problem PM me

i was refering to your posts because you dont know me.
It doesnt matter what shorts out, it could be a stock light bulb being submerged in water causing the short, if it blows a fuse and creates a big enough shock to the system it is common that the EMS will shut itsself off. Thats what i was calling common, not shorts happening from installs....

Been working on vehicle electronics now for over 15 years and am MECP certified and I never have heard of this "EMS". What the hell!!! So when the EMS kicks in do you hear lights and sirens???

EMS is Engine Managmenet System.
it includes all things manageing the engine, along with the harness and sensors. where as the ECU (engine controll unit) is the brain...

MECP= means nothing..... not trying to bash on you poncho but I've talked to some MECP certified people.....actually more then just some..... who are complete idiots and know nothing about car audio...... MECP is almost as bad as the whole CES amp approval thing

EMS is Engine Managmenet System.
it includes all things manageing the engine, along with the harness and sensors. where as the ECU (engine controll unit) is the brain...
Sorry but still never heard of it. I've got to do some work on a new H2 on Monday so I'll ask the guys in the service depo if they are aware of anything.

Personally, if there actually is such a thing, it sounds great for the hacker that has no clue on how to work with vehicle electronics!

MECP= means nothing..... not trying to bash on you poncho but I've talked to some MECP certified people.....actually more then just some..... who are complete idiots and know nothing about car audio...... MECP is almost as bad as the whole CES amp approval thing


Yes, I know what you mean. It's sometimes no different than ASC repair shops. Many times there are just knobs but there usually are some bright techs too. Same is true with MECP. Once I worked with this kid that I swear to you I watched him install a brand new Python alarm with remote start, pager, and timer module in a new Dodge Ram all in under an hour. Everything looked great and the guy never had to come back for any problems. Anyway, this installer was awsome at alarm installs and not too shabby on stereos. Well, he flunked the MECP test big time. It took me 2 times to pass. Not that it was all that hard because there were only actually a few questions. The problem was that they repeated those same questions over and over while just changing some of the wording a bit.

your telling me you have no idea what an Engine controll unit is?... ya know the little thing that controlls spark timing, fule management, reads signals from the MAF, O2 sensor, throttle position, etc... and adjusts fule pressure and injector rate acourdingly?
just to let you know the carburator is a thing of the past ;)

I have the MECP basic exam study guide of about 4 years ago, it has lots of errors in it on basic elctronics/physics stuff. They were supposed to fix it, I don't know if they ever did. Theoretically, it's a good starting place but being certified is NOT a gaurantee that the person really knows what they are doing.

Yea I think research and a lot of experience (w/o fuckin shit up) is what makes you a RELIABLE installer not some dumbass test...... bein a good installer is a lot more research more experince and a decent knowledge of what the hells goin on w. everything.

i got all my experence/knowledge from reading up on the internet, working as clean up at a local installer, and evne though i was sapposed to be cleaning up after i learned a good bit i started helping out with installs

i got all my experence/knowledge from reading up on the internet, working as clean up at a local installer, and evne though i was sapposed to be cleaning up after i learned a good bit i started helping out with installs

:rolleyes: :screwy: :loser: :banghead:

;) :biggrin:

NG

lol.... how much shit did u fuck up? ....... don't lie

If you guys know how much stupid stuff I did when I was young, you probably wouldn't listen to a word I said. :grinyes:

yea but ur old now so we forgive you.... we have to..... Do you get your senior citezins discount yet? ...... jusss messin w. ya man

naaawww .... a couple of more years :grinno:

your telling me you have no idea what an Engine controll unit is?... ya know the little thing that controlls spark timing, fule management, reads signals from the MAF, O2 sensor, throttle position, etc... and adjusts fule pressure and injector rate acourdingly?
just to let you know the carburator is a thing of the past ;)
I have heard of BCM,ECM, and ECU's but never heard of a EMS on a vehicle nor have I ever heard of one shutting down a system as a precautionary measure. Just worked on a $65k Caddy earilier and asked the techs about EMS and none of them knew anything about it. They said any such thing could be a liability issue especially if they decide to "go into protection" as you are driving 80MPH down a 8 lane highway.

They did say that there are "limp modes" that are programs the engine goes into if some sensor fails. Usually this will result in a ck engine light but the vehicle will still run. It may run a little worse since it may not be monitoring all the data but it will run.

BTW, yes I do not all about fule(fuel) magement systems and such. I am in the process of making my old 'Bird into a fuelie. Obviously I need to know about these anyway when doing remote starters.