Volts drop, engine stalls, lights dim

I love this car, I hate this car. It's a 2001 Aurora with intermittent problems all over the place. The concern I would like to discuss now is what I believe is an electrical problem with the alternator/regulator. After driving the car from cold, as soon as it reaches operating temperature, it's as if the power is cut momentarily. Most of the times the power comes right back, but it has stalled while cruising at 70. This problem started out very infrequently, but now it happens almost everyday, moving or stopped, but usually moving. A year ago, I started noticing that the lights would dim briefly a few times on hard acceleration before the engine got to op temp. It happens more frequently now. I also notice periodically a brief voltage drop from 14.7 to about 12.0. During the summer, at a stop, the A/C would not blow cool air, and the volts would gradually drop to an average of the low 14's to the high 13's. The dealer told me this is typical (for a $37k car???). The volts stay right at 15.0 until the car gets to op temp, then the volts slowly drop to about 14.4 in city driving, 14.7 on the highway. I leave the A/C on automatic because it usually helps with the windows fogging up, but it does make some noise when it kicks in. So I thought this could be the problem, but I even turned off the main A/C/Heat/Fan control, and the car still stalled temporarily.

There are many other little things that I believe are related, like the steering wanders and is very unpredictable at times.

I've had this car to 4 GM dealers and they are useless. Once the moron told me that I should get a Chilton's manual for the electrical problem to save some money. Hell, I would gladly pay them to fix the problem...isn't that what they're for??? Anyway, I've come to my own conclusion that this could very well be the alternator, but I would like to know if someone could help me to verify this before I shell out the cash for another part. Fault codes have been set directing the dealer to change the crank position sensor...twice. I also took this to Advanced Auto when the volts were at 11.5 during the summer with the A/C on. But they found nothing wrong with the charging system. The A/C was a little warm that day.

FOR SALE, 2001 AURORA, ANY REASONABLE OFFER WILL BE ACCEPTED!!!

If your selling it, why would you come to a board asking for help in fixing it? Pick one! :banghead:

If the scans are pointing to the crankshaft position sensor, then why not try it? I don't think its the alternator. I think computers in general are relatively smart, so I would tell you to trust your 37 thousand dollar computer. If you want to try something quick and easy, then try cleaning the MAF sensor. :2cents:

If your selling it, why would you come to a board asking for help in fixing it? Pick one! :banghead:

If the scans are pointing to the crankshaft position sensor, then why not try it? I don't think its the alternator. I think computers in general are relatively smart, so I would tell you to trust your 37 thousand dollar computer. If you want to try something quick and easy, then try cleaning the MAF sensor. :2cents:

That's a joke, son. Although I love the smiley banging his head. That's what I feel like with the dealers.

The CPS has been replaced twice, so I am assuming that it's not the problem. Where shall I start with computers...oh, yeah, they do go bad. In fact, there would be a lot less problems without all that garbage. But we do like our gadgets, don't we.

I will look into the MAF sensor, thanks!

I'm still laughing about the smiley!!!

Check the MAF, wires and plugs, coils, EGR, PCV, and TPS (I doubt it) to start with. I think when you take of the air intake tube that you will find the MAF screen all gunked up. Clean that screen with throttle body cleaner and a toothbrush (carefully as it is expensive to replace). While you already have that much apart, you might as well go in and clean the throttle body.

Thanks for the feedback. The car only has 57k on it, and the engine is about as clean as they get. I have cleaned the throttle body, and I actually removed and cleaned the injectors thinking that there might be some junk clogging them up. Everything there was clean as a whistle, too. And I only run 92 octane and up.

I spoke extensively with Olds Customer service last night, and I believe they are going to help with my problem. This has been occuring since I bought the car in 03, and it was Certified at the time. They do seem sincere about helping. I would suggest to anyone with a problem that started during a warranty/certification to contact them about issues. It doesn't hurt to ask. And make sure you compile a time-line of the problems. This helps.

I'll look into your suggestions, and I'll post back if/when I determine the problem.

emundorf
This is a part answer
Hope it helps

From what I have been led to understand the voltage you read at the DIC is the volts being accepted by the battery.
The battery has a thermistor (temp sensor) and will allow more volts input when it is cold, regardless of what accessories are running.
In temps of around 0 DegF and lower, a voltage of 15.7 is acceptable but as the battery warms up the input drops.