ok, what am I missing here...

I posted several times before about this and have yet to recieve viable advise. I need to know how to set the timing on my 1988 accord LXi. The chilton's manual refers to a bolt that has to be loosened (as usual for setting timing). A prior reply in here mentioned TWO bolts.. well.. I cant find these two bolts and looking at a picture of a replacement distributor I see no way to set timing in this (refer to http://www.partsamerica.com/product_images/img/A1C/31822.jpg. This picture of the distributor new and out of the vehicle
. There appears to be 3 bolt holes for attaching the distributor to the vehicle in what appears to be a static unchangeable position. help?

I posted several times before about this and have yet to recieve viable advise. I need to know how to set the timing on my 1988 accord LXi. The chilton's manual refers to a bolt that has to be loosened (as usual for setting timing). A prior reply in here mentioned TWO bolts.. well.. I cant find these two bolts and looking at a picture of a replacement distributor I see no way to set timing in this (refer to http://www.partsamerica.com/product_images/img/A1C/31822.jpg. This picture of the distributor new and out of the vehicle
. There appears to be 3 bolt holes for attaching the distributor to the vehicle in what appears to be a static unchangeable position. help?

I see three eliptical holes- what's the problem? There are three bolts on the ones I remember, the pic is correct. They dont move much, can't be turned all the way in any position like most. You only get maybe 5 or 10 degrees or so to work with.

Just like the pic, one is under the vacuum advance, the other two are at 4 and 8 o'clock from there.

Just like the pic, one is under the vacuum advance, the other two are at 4 and 8 o'clock from there.

the amount of movement allowed by loosening those 3 bolts is immeasurable. so basically the timing is statis and if you need to adjust 3-4 degrees youre screwed as this is an impact engine and the only other way to change timing is to offset 1 tooth on the timing belt which could damage the engine at worst and at best, change timing TOO much...

The problem I am having is that after the car warms up I get detonation below 3000 rpm.. cold she runs fine and noiseless.. sounds like timing to me? since the o2 sensor, egr valve cap rotor plugs and wires are all new...

the amount of movement allowed by loosening those 3 bolts is immeasurable. so basically the timing is statis and if you need to adjust 3-4 degrees youre screwed as this is an impact engine and the only other way to change timing is to offset 1 tooth on the timing belt which could damage the engine at worst and at best, change timing TOO much...

The problem I am having is that after the car warms up I get detonation below 3000 rpm.. cold she runs fine and noiseless.. sounds like timing to me? since the o2 sensor, egr valve cap rotor plugs and wires are all new...

See if the EGR is working correctly, and that the passages are clear. Have you tried higher octane fuel just to verify that it is pre-ignition you hear? It sounds like it is related to the engine going into closed loop operation, but I'm at a loss to explain why it would do that. Overly lean mixture, high operating temp or timing advance are the most likely causes, you're right there.

Did this just begin happening all at once, or has it been working up to it for some time? Does ambient temperature have any effect? Have you verified the cam timing? Is it possible the belt could have slipped? Is power normal otherwise?

Is that a mechanical vacuum advance? Maybe it is hanging up. That happens alot on GM distributors, the vacuum advance or the centrifigul advance will hang up and screw the timing. Vacuum advance is usually not fully active until the engine warms up, maybe the distributor is having some problem like that? Did you put a timing light on it and see if it returns to base timing after the throttle is popped with the engine warm?