1995 contour will not start

The car continues to try to start but doesn't. The last two days I would have to try a couple of times before it started and today nothing. The problem seemed to be only in the mornings or after the car sat for a few hours and was cold. The car ran fine after it started except for the check engine light came on, been doing that for last 15,000 miles and numerous trips to mechanic. Full tune-up at 100k, now has 109k (fuel filter, plugs, wires, oxygen sensor, pcv). Any ideas, maybe a fuel pumpor a sensor, I checked the reset button for the fuel pump and it is OK. I need to get it started so I do not have to tow it to a garage.

could be a crank position sensor.

Would the MAF cause the car to crank but not start. The engine is a 2.5L v6.

It could, but its highly unlikely. Unplug the MAF and see if it starts. If it doesnt, then it eliminates that possibility.

Is it an auto or 5 spd?

I am getting spark but I am not sure about where to check if fuel is getting to the engine. Where is a good place to check the fuel line?

Check the fuel pressure valve.

To the right of the pink cap, theres a little black bleeder valve. Unscrew the cap, and push down the valve with a nail or something. Make sure the key is in and the car is in accessory so that the fuel pump is on. The bleeder valve is located underneath the throttle body.
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I am getting fuel to the valve, the only thing I do not know how to check is the crank position sensor. Is there a way to check it? Thanks for your help. (so far)

Im not sure if their is any real way to monitor the cps. Maybe a voltmeter?? It should be a cheap easy fix.

One more thing! Inspect your wiring harness for your fuel injectors. The 95-97 models had a recall on all the wiring harnesses being known to crack and become exposed. Theres a 10 year/100,000 mile warranty on this recall. Your injector harness may have become exposed and could be arching, causing the injectors to be running full duty.

Its located right above the AC compressor and its held in by one bolt.
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I just finished checking the crank shaft senor with the meter and there was no reading. In the morning, I will go to auto store for its replacement. Hopefully this will resolve the issue. Again, thanks for your help.

New Crank Shaft Sensor did not fix the problem. Any other ideas?

have you inspected the wires under the upper intake manifold yet? Your injector wires may be exposed.

Spray a little carburetor cleaner into the throttle body. If it starts, it is a fuel delivery problem. If it has spark, the crank sensor was good. Ford is known for bad idle speed control motors. If it is stuck closed, there is no air flow into engine, therefore no start. Good luck. :2cents:

Thanks for the info, I finally had the car towed to a mechanic to see what they can do. I will update what the problem is.

Mechanic thinks it is the ECM. The cooling fans run when switch is turned on and the fuel pump is no longer working. I will update tomorrow.

Finally got the car out of the shop. New fuel pump $250, new ECM $250, new ignition module $250, new wiring under manifold $130, replaced belts $free, labor and wiring troubleshooting $600. Total spent on car is about $1500 so far. Car going back into shop to see why check engine light still on. Other than the light car runs great and is FOR SALE!!

Wow, It's odd all those components failed?, I wonder which one was actually faulty?


Mr.Rob

New fuel pump $250

ouch. that one hurts. You can pick up a 255 lph Walbro thats good for about 500 hp for only about $100 tops.