no compression > bent valves??

My timing belt jumped, or was out, either way the timing went completely out. I took apart the engine and replaced the belt. on the other times that I have done this with my other civic's It was sinch and I had no worries, this time after reassembly i turned it over and got ZIP. everything moves and the timing is lined up. there appears to beno compression. my questions are... 1) can I take off the top of the engine (rockers and valve parts) without completely lifting off the head? 2) is there a way to check the valves without taking the head apart? thanks...

You should be able to perform a compression test to determine the condition of your valves. Start by doing a normal compression test and note the figures. Then squirt a little oil in the cylinder as you test it. If you get a higher psi then before, you've got bad rings. If it stays the same (low psi) then it's the valves.

How did you line up the timing?
Is it carbed or fuel injected?

OK, there is zero compression. so I have to take the head off no matter what. What I need to know now is the order and amount of torque for re-tightening the head bolts.

BTW I lined up the engine by checking that the rotor cap was firing one, while cylinder one was closed and the piston was at TDC. This is assuming of course that when youare looking at the engine from the front of the car from left to right is (L)4 3 2 1(R) and the firing order is 1 3 4 2.

Also the engine on my civic is an '88 build (the car is '86) so its the ULP carbi motor with all the pain in the ass pollution gear.

I wouldn't start tearing the engine apart just yet.

Line up the TDC mark on the balancer pulley with the timing tab. The TDC mark is about 2 inches away from the normal timing marks.

Then check the marks on the camshaft pulley to make sure that they're aligned properly with the top of the cylinder head.

It sounds like you've got the timing off by just enough so that the valves are still open when the piston is on it's compression stroke. Worst case scenario, all your valves are screwed up, but since you're not getting any compression on any of the cylinders, that leads me to believe it's a timing issue (either that or someone forgot to put the head gasket on).

i have double, triple checked the timing, >the engine still has the original gaskets, so I'm going to replace them all.

Question, I noted that some of the head bolts had combustion deposits while some others had been in contact with water. is this normal?

also at what point did honda add the two inverted bolts under the cam array?

still need the torque sequence for tighening the head bolt backup..
:o)

cheers

It's normal for a motor of this age to have head bolts that look like something you'd pull out of your drain. Wire brush them and they should be fine.

Tighten the head bolts finger tight, then torque them to about 25ft-lbs, then to 50 ft-lbs. Starting at the two center bolts, work your way out in a spiral pattern (clockwise if you're in the northern hemisphere and counter-clockwise if you're in the southern hemisphere). Don't forget to lube up the threads with a little motor oil before you insert them, otherwise you won't get an acurate torque reading. Also, if you have a tap and die set, use it to clean out the threads in the block and to clean up the threads on the bolts.

Two inverted bolts under the cam?

thankyou very much for your help, greatly appreciated.

yes two inverted bolts bang in the middle of the head. I rang hondarec (our local honda dismantler, and they had never seen or heard of them. My guess is that the engine is an import?

thanks again