battery relocation

in the process of relocating my battery. www.taboospeedshop.com has a great write up but its on a 1g. my question is, does the 2g have a sub fuse box and a main fuse box like the 1g? i cant find the sub fuse box under the hood. and if it doesnt have a sub fuse box. all i would do is run wire from kill switch to main fuse box then to starter right?

I did this on my 2g, there are some pics on my site. I dont think I have any of the engine bay side though. I can try to remember to take some later this week if it will help. What I did is run the main battery cable up to a fused distribution block I mounted on the shock tower, beside where hte battery used to sit. An unfused 4g output goes to the starter (my starter wiring was completely banjaxed so I ran a whole new cable and harnessed it up). Two fused outputs go to the 4 white wires leading to the fuse box. I moved my fuel pump rewire to the positive battery terminal in the new location. I dont think I needed to run any ohter wires.

kick ass. where did you find a distribution block wiht fused and unfused slots?? if its not too much trouble a pic would be cool of the white wires into the distribution block and maby a pic of the 4g into the starter(have never looked for the starter in our cars so if its hard to access dont worry about it). so this is how im gonna do it...
battery, 4g wire, kill switch (anybody know the amps our cars run????), more 4g wire, fused distribution block, 4 white wires into 2 fused slots( what size fuses? and im guessing 2 white wires per each fused slot?), 4g wire from unfused slot in distrubution block to starter? and finally a 4g wire with a 80a fuse running directly from batt to alternator.

The fuse block I got locally, some ricer stereo brand. Its got 4 fused sections like normal, but on the side where power comes in (up to 2 guage IIRC) there is a 4ga connection on each side. So its before the fuses, and perfect for the starter.

Yes, I have two of the white wires per fuse. IIRC, the stock setup has only one ring terminal on two wires, so 4 wires, but only two terminals. And these normally go under the nut on the positive terminal clamp. I think the fuses are 60-80 amps each, to cover the two 12g or so wires.

The starter is easy to rewire. In my case the stock wire pulled out a bit from the terminal that is bolted to the starter, so there was some bare wire there. When starting I would sometimes get an arc to the block. On the end of the new 4g cable I crimped a ring lug. BOlted that to the starter terminal. The smaller signal wire (to actuate the solenoid) got harnessed in with it with zipties and convoluted tubing. I had pics of this, but I think I lost them with the hard drive failure. The 4g ground wire goes under the head of one of the starter bolts and runs to the shock tower. I cleaned off the area by the stud that the stock battery hold down attached to, and put a star washer with it and a M8x1.25 nut.

Back at the battery you can see in my pics the 140 amp breaker, and a Flaming River push style cut off switch right next to the liscence plate. IHRA and NHRA require the switch to not only cut off the battery lead, but to shut the car off as well. If you just cut the battery lead the car will continue to run via the alternator. The Flaming River switch was chosen partly because it has two extra sets of contacts, one normally open and one normally closed (the other reason was that NHRA, but not IHRA, requires push to turn off, not a rotary style switch like most of them). So the NC contacts are in line with the fuel pump rewire. So there is a 10g wire from the positive terminal, to the NC contacts on the cutoff switch, to the pump. When you hit the switch, it cuts power to the fuel pump killing the motor. WAY easuer than messing with relays and such to cut off the higher current alternator wires. ;)

Hope some of this helps.

so do i run a 4g wire from the alternator to the battery with an 80a fuse adn then run from the battery to the kill switch then to the distrubtion block?

the pics of your custom blow throw set up provide a clear shot of the distrubution block. so you dont have to waste time taking pics of it (not sure if you were anyway haha.) i was plannin on using a rotary type kill switch but now i guess im using a push style. you dont know the part # by any chance do you for hte flaming river kill switch?

im a little confused about how to use the NC and NO contacts on the switch to cut power away from the fuel pump and the rest of the car. if you could please explain it a little bit more( maby even use some crayons for my dumb ass) id really appriciate it.

so do i run a 4g wire from the alternator to the battery with an 80a fuse adn then run from the battery to the kill switch then to the distrubtion block?

Unless I misunderstand you, that sounds right.

the pics of your custom blow throw set up provide a clear shot of the distrubution block. so you dont have to waste time taking pics of it (not sure if you were anyway haha.)

So they do! Good, because I forgot to even bring the camera out to the garage. :) You can just make out the other red wire dropping down to go to the starter.

i was plannin on using a rotary type kill switch but now i guess im using a push style. you dont know the part # by any chance do you for hte flaming river kill switch?

This is summits part number. FLA-FR1013. In the pics you can see the extra contacts.

im a little confused about how to use the NC and NO contacts on the switch to cut power away from the fuel pump and the rest of the car. if you could please explain it a little bit more( maby even use some crayons for my dumb ass) id really appriciate it.

NO contacts are open, or not connected, until you activate (push in this case) the switch. NC are the opposite. By hooking the fuel pump rewire postive lead up to these contacts, the pump will be allowed to get power when the switch is in the normal position. When you push the switch in, the main contacts will open cutting off battery power, and the NC contacts will open to cut off the fuel pump and shut the motor down, complying with racing regulations. In the summit description they mention that this swtich cuts off the battery and the alternator, but like I said, its a good bit easier to kill the pump instead. For one, its already back there. Two, current to the pump is only ~20 amps, well within the rating of those contacts. The alternator is ~60 amps, and would require a beefy relay to be triggered by those contacts. You can see the battery and fuel pump wires going out the back of the hatch in the second to last pic on the pics page, and you can see the switch that they are running to in the last pic on that same page.

what are the odds of ever needing the kill switch for street driving?? the reason im asking is because my car is a daily driver and if i mount the switch on the exterior like nhra rules state, im gonna have some theft problems. i think i will just install the switch behind the licensplate on the sparetire "boob." if that doesnt work out then ill just bypass the switch and only use it wheni go to the track. bad side to this is i wont have a kill switch unless im goin to the track.

I'm not sure how this is related to theft. Something to do with an alarm? That could still be wired directly to the battery.

oh yea haha. for some reason i was thinking hit that switch and no power to the entire car. but you can still run constant power if you go directly from batt before kill switch. i like your idea of running the fuel pump in the kill switch rather than messing with relays and what not for the alternator. once again... 95gsxracer is the man

hold up though.. alarms require 1 constant power source which is no problem. but they also require another that goes into your accessory when you turn the key. i think the one that goes to the accessory just tells the alarm when to shut down.(turn key to acc and alarm turns off, when you pull key out the alarm turns on, doesnt arm, it just simply has power. so if someone hits the kill switch, my accessory would obvoiusly have no power meanin that the alarm WOULD have power. meaning my alarm would be uneffected by the kill switch if 12v constant was wired to batt and acc wire was wired to key. im gonna have to ask a buddy of mine about this cuz hes pretty good with this shit. thanks for all the help kevin.