sanding

has any-1 actually sanded their s-10 how long does it take--i've sanded my s-10 its a 1989 and its single cab and long bed--ive been working on it for 2 months and im only done with the cab-does anybody know a best "tool" to use to sand im using a palm sander and it sucks-been through 50 pads or so-i wanna try and get it done before spring break-which is like 3 or 4 weeks from now

Try google.com to find out information.

use a palm sander, electric, or a pnumatic disk sander, just remember, the pnumatic sander will take you to bare metal, which if you want thats what i reccomend, if you want to go down to primer or are looken to rough up the surface, use a palm sander and some sand papper on a sanding block (2x4 with sand papper wrapped around it) two months seams like an awfully long time, is it just a weekend project your putting together?

It would be best it you had(or have)a air compresser.That way you could use a DA sander which is by far faster than hand block or electric palm sander.Just be careful with a DA,as in don't get close to glass or moldings.Also try to save if possible the factory primer.I don't know how in depth your getting with your paint job,but you can use a gray 3M scuff pad with some scuffing gel(or Ajax or Comet)to scuff up the paint (make it dull)so new paint can stick.This way is alot quicker but doesn't take care of scratches or chips or rust.

the best thing to do if you want to get bare mettal is to buy or rent a sand blaster and go to town

the best thing to do if you want to get bare mettal is to buy or rent a sand blaster and go to town
Good idea for spot rust repairs.Do not blast whole panels though!!!!!!!!Sand blasting will warp the sheet metal and you will have a mess.

i am using a palm sander but ive never heard of a pnumatic disk sander---can i buy that anywhere if so how much and i have a air compressor but its one of the ones you plug in and i dont have any air tools

i am using a palm sander but ive never heard of a pnumatic disk sander---can i buy that anywhere if so how much and i have a air compressor but its one of the ones you plug in and i dont have any air tools
You can buy a da sander at NAPA,ebay,etc.What do you mean you have a air compresser but it's one of those that you plug in?

im assumeing he means its a portable/smaller one, not a 220 floor standing one, you will need atleast 50 lbs of pressure to run air tools, atleast i reccomend it, get them off like movin2 said, e bay, nappa, you could also go higher quality with huskey equipment from home depo or you could go to lows, places like that, like movin2 said you dont want to sb a whole vehical, you will wind up with waves in it

movin2 I value your knowledge of bodywork but with my hotrods if I didn't use a small sandblaster I'd never get done, even with my da sander.
Although I do agree that if you hold a sand blaster in 1 place it'll warp any steel. I wouldn't let anyone that I didn't trust to go anywhere near my cars with a sand blaster.

probably the easiest way for most people without air tools is just buy some aircraft paint remover, and the job will be done in no time.
Just find out where you can legaly dump the waste first.

movin2 I value your knowledge of bodywork but with my hotrods if I didn't use a small sandblaster I'd never get done, even with my da sander.
Although I do agree that if you hold a sand blaster in 1 place it'll warp any steel. I wouldn't let anyone that I didn't trust to go anywhere near my cars with a sand blaster.

probably the easiest way for most people without air tools is just buy some aircraft paint remover, and the job will be done in no time.
Just find out where you can legaly dump the waste first.
I assume that you mean that you use your blaster for tight spots(door jambs,window channels,etc.) and small surface areas,which is fine and safe.I seen a guy take a deck lid(older car 50s era)and he had it sandblasted.He brought it in to us to paint it.Everything was clean and dandy untill we looked at the outside of the deck.The sandblaster dented the skin.You could see where the braces were underneath,thats how bad it was.If would've taken 2 gallon of mud to fix it up,needless to say we didn't do it.The boss wanted no part in it.I agree with you on the paint stripper.That stuff can save time and makes no heat(won't warp).Just if you use that make sure to tape edges off,a safe barrier so to speak.This way you won't have stripper running down behind windows or jambs and what not.

I wish that there was a place close by my house where I could just get my auto's dipped.

Although I understand that if you go to the wrong shop they might not neutrolize the chemicals right which could blead through later.

At least all the rust and paint should be completely removed.

yea it is a portable compressor and i have well over 50 psi but still no power tools and i agree with (OverBoardProject) that wish there was a place to dip my vehicle in or hell even sand it and do the body work 4 me

sorry to say this guy, but you need at-least 90psi with most air tools. Plus you need some sort of holding tank for anything to work right.

walmart has a colman compressor with a few cheap air tools. I upgraded all my tools but for the $400.cnd it's all that most people need. You'll thank yourself later and wonder how you lived without air tools.

Anything less than a 50 gallon compressor is useless for anything, especially painting. Painting should use at least 100 gallon or better

I have a 27 gal / 5 hp / 110V "walmart" compressor and it is not powerful enough to handle a DA sander. I do use it to paint with and I usually get about half the truck painted before I need to take a break and let the compressor "catch up". That is also about the time I need to refill my paint gun.

I use an electric palm sander and use automotive sandpaper. Time it takes depends on how much sanding you want to do; or how far down you want to go. If you are going to bare metal then yes it will take a long time to strip the whole truck.

Why do you need to strip the whole truck ?

I only go down to bare metal when I need to weld.

Anything less than a 50 gallon compressor is useless for anything, especially painting. Painting should use at least 100 gallon or better
most of us don't have the space for a 100 gallon air compressor, and although it's slower than I'd like my (40 gallon) works fine for every project that I've done.

I've completely re-built 4 cars with it, and I know thai it'll work on the 2 hotrods that I'm building up now.

With painting I use a high volume low pressure paint gun, so it isn't as demanding.

I plan on using a holding tank while painting my rods this time.


My first (construction) framing company ran up to 30 nailguns at once with just 1 40 gallon air compressor with 1 holding tank

Anything less than a 50 gallon compressor is useless for anything, especially painting. Painting should use at least 100 gallon or better
Wrong.

has any-1 actually sanded their s-10 how long does it take--i've sanded my s-10 its a 1989 and its single cab and long bed--ive been working on it for 2 months and im only done with the cab-does anybody know a best "tool" to use to sand im using a palm sander and it sucks-been through 50 pads or so-i wanna try and get it done before spring break-which is like 3 or 4 weeks from now
if your going to sand with a palm sander air is the only way to go with some 40 or 8o grit sand paper then go over it with 120,240,320,this will give you the smothness you will need to paint

or you can sandblast using sil 4 sand,you will need a high pressure aircompresser and face protection wear coveralls,probly two bags of sand,or if you strip all the accessories rubber around windows door handels and stuff you can use paint stripper very toxix works the fastest,scuff up whole vehecle with 40 grit then spread on the stripper with a brush then cover it with plastic this will help control the smell and strip the paint better,wait recomended time on can then scrap it off with a metal putty knife wear latex gloves then wash thourly,then let dry and sand with 240 then 320,

stripper never works here, only on a hot summer day, you usually have to have some nice heat for that stuff to work, its not a winter project if you live up here

I woulo also go with the DA for stripping paint, if your going to do filler work I'd use and inline. I usually start with 80 then go to 180. DA only takes 50-60 psi to run, if your compressor is weak then just let it catch up from time to time and grab a coke or somethin while you let the motor cool down. After your done shoot the primer then I would block it from there.

stripper never works here, only on a hot summer day, you usually have to have some nice heat for that stuff to work, its not a winter project if you live up here

How warm does it get where you live?

It's still pretty cool where I live, although it's dry and I'm trying a new stripper in the next couple of days. It just sayes to use in a well ventulated area out of the wind and sun... but no temp rating. If it works I'll tell you how warm it got.

im farther south then canada, but only in michigan, it will stay cooler here because i live 5 min. away from lake michigan and the water helps keep things cooler here, on a really hot day we will get 80 or better, but its alwase a humid hot, you dont know heat untill youve had heat and humid, any day its hot enough for the "aircraft stripper" ive used b4 its miserable to be outside and not in the pool

if your going to sand with a palm sander air is the only way to go with some 40 or 8o grit sand paper then go over it with 120,240,320,this will give you the smothness you will need to paint

or you can sandblast using sil 4 sand,you will need a high pressure aircompresser and face protection wear coveralls,probly two bags of sand,or if you strip all the accessories rubber around windows door handels and stuff you can use paint stripper very toxix works the fastest,scuff up whole vehecle with 40 grit then spread on the stripper with a brush then cover it with plastic this will help control the smell and strip the paint better,wait recomended time on can then scrap it off with a metal putty knife wear latex gloves then wash thourly,then let dry and sand with 240 then 320,
40 is a little extreme and will make for more work when you try and sand out the 40 grit scratches.I only use 40 on mud work to rough it out,then I use 80 to smooth it up some and then I go to 180 and then 320 to finish it up.Only use 40 in this manner,if you try and use it for a overall you will hate yourself. :2cents:

stripper never works here, only on a hot summer day, you usually have to have some nice heat for that stuff to work, its not a winter project if you live up here
Stripper does need heat to work proper.The cooler it is the longer it takes.

It would be best it you had(or have)a air compresser.That way you could use a DA sander which is by far faster than hand block or electric palm sander.Just be careful with a DA,as in don't get close to glass or moldings.Also try to save if possible the factory primer.I don't know how in depth your getting with your paint job,but you can use a gray 3M scuff pad with some scuffing gel(or Ajax or Comet)to scuff up the paint (make it dull)so new paint can stick.This way is alot quicker but doesn't take care of scratches or chips or rust.
donat use scotch brite to sand flat open panels!
if anything use 320 if your going to repaint the panels,then use red scotch brite to get the hard to reach places
sincerly forth year autobody

donat use scotch brite to sand flat open panels!
if anything use 320 if your going to repaint the panels,then use red scotch brite to get the hard to reach places
sincerly forth year autobodyFirst off there,Mr.Autobody.Scuff pads do not sand! :screwy: They scuff.Scuffing dulls(scratches) the surface of paint or clear so new paint or clear can stick.Don't tell me that you can't scuff flat open panels cause I do it all the time.That's how you blend if you know what that is.Red pads can be used for painting over,gray pads are for clearing over(blending).

wow, i cant use scuff pads in open areas? wish i would of knowen that b4 i scuffed my bed and did my own spray in bed liner... you can use scuff pads, like movin2 said, its how you fix the utohs people have and its how you paint if your color changing and dont need body work done, in fact, scuffing is better, you wont accidently go down to bare metal on a corner, kuz thats bad, and you can make scuffs go farther costing less then a sleeve of sandpapper... mr. fourth year, please pay attention in year number five, it may help...

Movin2 I'm just wondering, how does the ajax or comet compair to the scuff pads?

I would almost imagine that it's better in the tight area's

Just out of curiousosity, how long have you been working at bodywork?

And of course everyone except jerry phats knows that your this forum's leading edge athority on autobody, and we all trust your advice

newbie's... I tell ya

wow, i cant use scuff pads in open areas? wish i would of knowen that b4 i scuffed my bed and did my own spray in bed liner... you can use scuff pads, like movin2 said, its how you fix the utohs people have and its how you paint if your color changing and dont need body work done, in fact, scuffing is better, you wont accidently go down to bare metal on a corner, kuz thats bad, and you can make scuffs go farther costing less then a sleeve of sandpapper... mr. fourth year, please pay attention in year number five, it may help...
Right on!

Movin2 I'm just wondering, how does the ajax or comet compair to the scuff pads?

I would almost imagine that it's better in the tight area's

Just out of curiousosity, how long have you been working at bodywork?

And of course everyone except jerry phats knows that your this forum's leading edge athority on autobody, and we all trust your advice

newbie's... I tell ya
Ajax or Comet is cheap compared to the regular scuff gels and does just about the same job,but the scuffing gels are better.What the gels do and/or Ajax or Comet is clean,degrease,and aids in scuffing(that grit you feel when it's in your hand),and makes the job easier.Use a scuff pad wet with the gel or Ajax,scuff the area,then rinse and dry.You will have a nice clean and dull paint so new paint can stick.Remember to wash before painting though.I have been doing body work,collision for 10 years.And thanks for your kind coment.I try to help anyone with a problem.

...I try to help anyone with a problem.
you do one hell of a job

you do one hell of a job

I second that

Well lowriderfan187 you'll hate this. I just got a 100 gallon holding tank for my compressor ( + my 40 gallon compressors tank ) and I easily had all the cab of my blazer sanded not counting the roof in under 3 hours today. Using my DA sander.

I'll have to fine sand it still though.

I want to try some chemical paint stripper on the roof to see how it does

I didn't touch the doors, hood or fenders since they are getting replaced

With the proper tools you would have had your truck done equally quick.

But doing all the prep work yourself will save you enough to buy several of those tools

Well lowriderfan187 you'll hate this. I just got a 100 gallon holding tank for my compressor ( + my 40 gallon compressors tank ) and I easily had all the cab of my blazer sanded not counting the roof in under 3 hours today. Using my DA sander.

I'll have to fine sand it still though.

I want to try some chemical paint stripper on the roof to see how it does

I didn't touch the doors, hood or fenders since they are getting replaced

With the proper tools you would have had your truck done equally quick.

But doing all the prep work yourself will save you enough to buy several of those tools
Careful with the stripper.Make sure you mask all around the roof and plastic your sides.You don't want it to run in your jambs,that would make one hell of a mess.

Thanks movin2, the truth is that I don't think it'll work but I want to try it in the center first.

It's felt warm here in the sun this week but in the shade it just gets over freezing. So I think that it's too cold. If this paint stripper does work in these weather conditions I would sure have to recommend it

Good call.

I am finishing an 84 extended cab and I primered (3 coats) the truck in the summer. I am waiting to decide what colours and what paint scheme I want (and warmer weather).
Anyways, I was welding some holes in the bed rails (from the previous owner and an UGLY topper !!) and welded, filled and sanded the rails with 120 grit. Well I ran out of 120 and grabbed some 320 (or 340 grit) and finished sanding the filler areas and was amazed at how smooth the bed rails were, that I got carried away and ended up sanding the entire side of the bed, DAMN I hate when that happens !!!

Now I've got to rattle can primer the side of the truck and wait to finish the body sanding. But, OH BABY, is that bed side smooth !!!!!!!!! :thumbsup:

Have you tried stripper. aircraft stripper work wonders, but its messy and you have to recondition the metal after wards

Have you tried stripper. aircraft stripper work wonders, but its messy and you have to recondition the metal after wards
What do you mean by recondition?

After Stripping The Metal You Have To Use A Cleaner And Reconditioner On The Metal. If You To Any Schooling Or I_car Classes For Auto Collision You Should Now This. To Take All The Chemicals That The Stripper Has Left On The Metal.

Actually the striper that I'm hoping on trying just sayes to clean up with water.

If it works impressively I'll tell you what it is, but like I said it's really too cold here at the moment where I'll be suprised if the chemical works.

I'll have a better idea how this product works in the summer after stripping some of the paint off my 27 Essex sedan

After Stripping The Metal You Have To Use A Cleaner And Reconditioner On The Metal. If You To Any Schooling Or I_car Classes For Auto Collision You Should Now This. To Take All The Chemicals That The Stripper Has Left On The Metal.
you dont have to 'recondition' anything, you have to remove the chemical left behind like you said, i suggest denatured alcohal, its hot enough that it dries quick enough not to leave a film behind, and some good elbow grease to go with it and you will be fine.

After Stripping The Metal You Have To Use A Cleaner And Reconditioner On The Metal. If You To Any Schooling Or I_car Classes For Auto Collision You Should Now This. To Take All The Chemicals That The Stripper Has Left On The Metal.
LOL.Yes I have taken I-Car classes and PPG classes and Martin Senour classes and this is the first I've heard of this.The stripper cleans up with water(says that right on the can,no class needed :screwy: ).Then you sand the metal,I like to use 180.Was down with a solvet.Then you prime with a self ecthing primer ,now that I learned that at all the classes I took. :p