Another newbie thread

I am 100% confident all of my questions have already been answered atleast 5 dozen times throughout this forum. I am also aware if I took the time, I could find answers to all my questions. The problem is, between reading all the whining about "OMG, this is the 5th post on same topic", and "what a newbie!" it takes way too long to try and research each question individually.

Anywayz, on to my questions:
I'm buying a 98 Civic HX. From what I've read, it sucks.
Now, I'm going for performance, nothing insane, just enough to beat the ricers around town.
I'm kinda aware of the options, swap, turbo, super, buy a different car...
I'm more interested in the reasoning. If I keep my stock motor, get new cams, pulleys, pistons, valves, headers, exhaust, ecu, etc etc.
Will that in addition to a turbo put me in the high 11 low 12's on 1/4 mile?
Or is the only way I'll achieve that type of performance through a engine swap, h22a for example? The main thing is this: I'm going to turbo whatever motor I have, while still being realistic in cost, whats the best way to go... other forums, pictures, dyno charts, any links will be helpful, thanks.

I'd personally scrap the stock motor. I don't know about 11's or low 12's, but a built LS/ turbo would be pretty good. Here's a dyno of a stock block LS (well it's got crower turbo cams and a P&P, so I should say stock short block) with 303whp: http://www.evans-tuning.com/viewtopic.php?t=790
So I'd say if you built the short block and turned up the boost, you could very possibly be in at least high 12's. But it would probably cost you a little under $10K or so (could be considerably less if you find good deals on parts).

I appreciate the feedback.

You're forgetting, I'm a newbie!! What is a LS? How readily available are they, what kinda fortune will I need to get one? Also, I'm fat, I NEED AC! Will I have to modify engine compartment to make room?

Thanks again


Oh, another note... You say stock block... Some learning on blocks is in order I guess. Whats the difference between a stock block, and non stock?

The LS is the B18b motor, came from the Integra LS. You can find a complete swap for $2,200 or less. And yes you can keep your A/C, though if you went turbo you'd have to make sure you got a kit that will let you keep it. And when I say stock block I mean completely stock as opposed to a built block (rods, pistons, sleeves, etc).

But... honestly you should take the time to learn more before jumping into anything. And speed is not cheap. The words Cheap and Fast do not go together when it comes to cars; especially ones that do 11's or 12's.

Well, I'm here to help give me a start towards learning.

Sorry if the questions bug ya orso, I'm curious, and researching through 5,000,000 pages of similiar questions has basically gotten me nowhere...

So, LS is the b18b integra motor... In theory, wouldnt it be cheaper for me to get an integra LS then? Is my civic going to be lighter? I'm paying 3,000 for the civic, 2500 for engine (give or take). Would it be smarter for me to just find a 96-98 integra LS?

Also, lets say I indeed get the civic, put in the b18 engine, turbo it to hell, get 300 whp. What kinda transmission is gonna be needed? Surely the stock wont get 300 hp to the ground.

The Civic will be about 300lbs lighter than the Integra. The Integra would also more than likely be more expensive to buy, and the stock motor will probably have higher mileage (than just buying the used engine). For the transmission, the stock one would work. But if you want something a little stronger and that has a shorter gear ratio, then you might want to find a b16a or Integra GS-R (b18c1) transmission.

Anyone else got some input?

...

Also, lets say I indeed get the civic, put in the b18 engine, turbo it to hell, get 300 whp. What kinda transmission is gonna be needed? Surely the stock wont get 300 hp to the ground.

300whp damn thats alotta power man for a car thats about 2300 lbs..

I'd personally scrap the stock motor. I don't know about 11's or low 12's, but a built LS/ turbo would be pretty good. Here's a dyno of a stock block LS (well it's got crower turbo cams and a P&P, so I should say stock short block) with 303whp: http://www.evans-tuning.com/viewtopic.php?t=790



Thats a dyno on a 300whp LS.

Before putting 300whp to the ground...think about 220whp or so...220whp on a 2300lbs car will get it moving...you'll want to upgrade the clutch and flywheel on the tranny...and if you are truely wanting to put down big power numbers like 300whp...think about getting an LSD for the tranny or buying a tranny with an LSD already (the JDM B16A and B18C had an option for an LSD)...Quife and Cusco make good aftermarket LSDs...remember...300WHP is all great and fun but if you don't have traction and you spin tires through the first 3 gears..the power does no good.

300WHP is a LOT for a lightweigth car like a civic. It sounds all fun and great but you may find you'll be fine with a lot less. As I said...220whp will get a lightweight car like a civic moving. You don't have to have a dyno-queen or the fastest car out there...all you really need is enough to suit you. 300hp is a lot for a 2300lbs car, so make sure you know how to drive it in everyday traffic before you do it. You may get it and find the wheels spin too much for your taste...all of a sudden driving it daily is no fun...If you go for broke like that seriosuly consider an LSD.

You can keep A/C with any B-series swap...I know for the 5th gens you use the Del Sol Vtec A/C bracket to mount the A/C if you want to keep it...I am not sure if you use this one for the 99-00 Si A/C bracket if you want to keep A/C. I can check, but I'm pretty sure it's one of those for the 6th gens also...Keeping A/C and PS shouldn't be an issue with a b-series wap if you want it. Now if you want to keep A/C once it's turbo'd...you'll need to be careful choosing the turbo manifold. Most likely you'll need a log-style one among other things...those fancy tubuler ones will likely mean no A/C.

Before putting 300whp to the ground...think about 220whp or so...220whp on a 2300lbs car will get it moving...you'll want to upgrade the clutch and flywheel on the tranny...and if you are truely wanting to put down big power numbers like 300whp...think about getting an LSD for the tranny or buying a tranny with an LSD already (the JDM B16A and B18C had an option for an LSD)...Quife and Cusco make good aftermarket LSDs...remember...300WHP is all great and fun but if you don't have traction and you spin tires through the first 3 gears..the power does no good.

300WHP is a LOT for a lightweigth car like a civic. It sounds all fun and great but you may find you'll be fine with a lot less. As I said...220whp will get a lightweight car like a civic moving. You don't have to have a dyno-queen or the fastest car out there...all you really need is enough to suit you. 300hp is a lot for a 2300lbs car, so make sure you know how to drive it in everyday traffic before you do it. You may get it and find the wheels spin too much for your taste...all of a sudden driving it daily is no fun...If you go for broke like that seriosuly consider an LSD.

You can keep A/C with any B-series swap...I know for the 5th gens you use the Del Sol Vtec A/C bracket to mount the A/C if you want to keep it...I am not sure if you use this one for the 99-00 Si A/C bracket if you want to keep A/C. I can check, but I'm pretty sure it's one of those for the 6th gens also...Keeping A/C and PS shouldn't be an issue with a b-series wap if you want it. Now if you want to keep A/C once it's turbo'd...you'll need to be careful choosing the turbo manifold. Most likely you'll need a log-style one among other things...those fancy tubuler ones will likely mean no A/C. When you choose turbo componets make sure you can retain A/C with them. You may have an easier time retaining A/C if you buy a LS teg outright and turbo that than with a civic with a turbo'd LS. However, as was mentioned...the teg can be a good 300lbs heavier depending on the trim lines you compare. Also, if you lower the car once you have a B18B1 swap...conisder getting spring that use Teg spring rates and not the civic ones...typically the teg springs are a little stiffer...and I find a lot of springs for civics way to soft for my liking, especially with a swapped motor. Of course, I like my spring rates very stiff to begin with...I don't mind the "harsh ride" some complain about...to me rates many consider too harsh are not that bad or harsh at all...and the trade off in handling is worth it...besides...I've riden around on bump stops for a good year and a half when I was much younger (a no no!!!), so "harsh" spring rates are a walk in the park by comparison...LOL