anti-freeze leak
JDW
02-26-2005, 03:16 PM
Have a 92 v6 - with anti-freeze leaking and drips on lower left side at the front. Does it more when it's cold than warm - kind of quits then.
tried to get in with a mirror to see if it was coming out of weep hole in water pump but cann't see where it's coming from. A bit shy of taking it in an just telling them to fix it. If it's water pump, I can handle that. But would like to zero in on leak first.
Also thought, if it's water pump. Maybe I should do the timing belt as it's 75,000 on this one - was changed at 80,000. Never done that, didn't know if that was a job for dealer only or not. I've don't the old ones with a chain but not the belts. I was told I should put in new idler pulleys too - another couple hundred for that.
What is a good rule to follow on mileage of belt - mostly just street driving. Also, is it best for you weekend mechanic to pay the bucks to have shops do the belt. I've got est. of 400 from dealer for belt and water pump - that's without the new pulleys. Another shop is about 850, with new drive belts, pulleys. looking for some guidance.
Hate to put a ton of money in this 92 with 155,000. Already had to put new brake lines, half shafts/boots, rewire the head lights (200), trans. speedo sensor, plus other stuff on it. Son really likes it, but seems something is always going wrong and costing a couple hundred at least each time.
thanks
tried to get in with a mirror to see if it was coming out of weep hole in water pump but cann't see where it's coming from. A bit shy of taking it in an just telling them to fix it. If it's water pump, I can handle that. But would like to zero in on leak first.
Also thought, if it's water pump. Maybe I should do the timing belt as it's 75,000 on this one - was changed at 80,000. Never done that, didn't know if that was a job for dealer only or not. I've don't the old ones with a chain but not the belts. I was told I should put in new idler pulleys too - another couple hundred for that.
What is a good rule to follow on mileage of belt - mostly just street driving. Also, is it best for you weekend mechanic to pay the bucks to have shops do the belt. I've got est. of 400 from dealer for belt and water pump - that's without the new pulleys. Another shop is about 850, with new drive belts, pulleys. looking for some guidance.
Hate to put a ton of money in this 92 with 155,000. Already had to put new brake lines, half shafts/boots, rewire the head lights (200), trans. speedo sensor, plus other stuff on it. Son really likes it, but seems something is always going wrong and costing a couple hundred at least each time.
thanks
surfervincent311
03-13-2005, 09:23 PM
Have a 92 v6 - with anti-freeze leaking and drips on lower left side at the front. Does it more when it's cold than warm - kind of quits then.
tried to get in with a mirror to see if it was coming out of weep hole in water pump but cann't see where it's coming from. A bit shy of taking it in an just telling them to fix it. If it's water pump, I can handle that. But would like to zero in on leak first.
Also thought, if it's water pump. Maybe I should do the timing belt as it's 75,000 on this one - was changed at 80,000. Never done that, didn't know if that was a job for dealer only or not. I've don't the old ones with a chain but not the belts. I was told I should put in new idler pulleys too - another couple hundred for that.
What is a good rule to follow on mileage of belt - mostly just street driving. Also, is it best for you weekend mechanic to pay the bucks to have shops do the belt. I've got est. of 400 from dealer for belt and water pump - that's without the new pulleys. Another shop is about 850, with new drive belts, pulleys. looking for some guidance.
Hate to put a ton of money in this 92 with 155,000. Already had to put new brake lines, half shafts/boots, rewire the head lights (200), trans. speedo sensor, plus other stuff on it. Son really likes it, but seems something is always going wrong and costing a couple hundred at least each time.
thanks
I just did this job myself on my 91 4 runner. It is not that bad. But in my neighborhood the dealer has a special on the T-belt for $175.00. Of course, I didn't know this and did all of it myself. The trick is making sure that it is tight. You can't rely on the tensioner spring to put the tension on the belt. You need to pry against the tensioner pulley and get the belt good and tight. Then turn the crank 2 revolutions and make sure that everything is still lined up and that the belt isn't slipping.
As for the pulleys. No, I didn't replace anything there except the belt and the tensioner spring ($20 dealer) which was corroded due to the leak.
That's a deal and I probably would've paid if I knew that. Sounds like the water pump to me and that is an expensive part. $200+ unless you get an aftermarket one on ebay.
tried to get in with a mirror to see if it was coming out of weep hole in water pump but cann't see where it's coming from. A bit shy of taking it in an just telling them to fix it. If it's water pump, I can handle that. But would like to zero in on leak first.
Also thought, if it's water pump. Maybe I should do the timing belt as it's 75,000 on this one - was changed at 80,000. Never done that, didn't know if that was a job for dealer only or not. I've don't the old ones with a chain but not the belts. I was told I should put in new idler pulleys too - another couple hundred for that.
What is a good rule to follow on mileage of belt - mostly just street driving. Also, is it best for you weekend mechanic to pay the bucks to have shops do the belt. I've got est. of 400 from dealer for belt and water pump - that's without the new pulleys. Another shop is about 850, with new drive belts, pulleys. looking for some guidance.
Hate to put a ton of money in this 92 with 155,000. Already had to put new brake lines, half shafts/boots, rewire the head lights (200), trans. speedo sensor, plus other stuff on it. Son really likes it, but seems something is always going wrong and costing a couple hundred at least each time.
thanks
I just did this job myself on my 91 4 runner. It is not that bad. But in my neighborhood the dealer has a special on the T-belt for $175.00. Of course, I didn't know this and did all of it myself. The trick is making sure that it is tight. You can't rely on the tensioner spring to put the tension on the belt. You need to pry against the tensioner pulley and get the belt good and tight. Then turn the crank 2 revolutions and make sure that everything is still lined up and that the belt isn't slipping.
As for the pulleys. No, I didn't replace anything there except the belt and the tensioner spring ($20 dealer) which was corroded due to the leak.
That's a deal and I probably would've paid if I knew that. Sounds like the water pump to me and that is an expensive part. $200+ unless you get an aftermarket one on ebay.
speedracer41
03-14-2005, 12:26 PM
make sure the V06 head gasket campaign has been done / The dealer could probably get it done faster if time is an issue / It is a good idea to replace idler while you are in there, you dont want that pulley to seize while you are going down the road
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