Clear coating burning edges

I did ask about clearcoating just over a week ago about how long to leave the base coat before clearing.

I said 30 days, and I think I should have waited 30 days. Instead I waited 8 days and then cleared my impreza WRC. I applied twp mist coats and then a wet. I waited 15 mins between for the first mist to dry, and it dryed VERY fast. I then only waited 5 mins for the second mist to dry and then hit it with a heavy wet coat. This is where I then noticed a problem.

The edges are now burning back to the silver basecoat... This impreza is becoming a nightmare..!!

I'm now in two minds to just leave it, as the body will have many decals on it, or drop this is some kinda paint stripper. And to think - I got that final coat down without any dust..!!

In the UK, what is the best to use for taking TS paint off? I've read CSC - castrol super cleaner or something - not seen that around in the UK. Brake fluid perhaps?

Bah..!!

I clear coat either the same day or the day after, when i use laquers.

You'd want to use brake fluid to remove TS paints anyhow, other things work really, really slowly on them.

You should have waited a month to clear, even Tamiya recommend that long when clearing with TS over TS.

I know. I did read 30 days before clearning, but then I also read that some only wait 7 days. TBH, now that I've let it stand for a few hours the burning hasn't increased, and it looks OK-ish..!! It's no show winner that's for sure.

I've looked at the decal guide, and a lot of the areas are covered up. Put that down to "yet" another learning curve. When it says 30 days it means 30 days... Feel a little silly now.

The drill w/TS paints....clearcoat w/in ONE HOUR of color coat, or wait one month. Needless to say, I do it w/in one hour. You can always mist coat some fresh color over previous color so the clear will work w/o cracking. Be CAREFUL how you apply the clear, mist coats slowly working up to wet coats. No matter when you spray, if you push the clear too wet too fast, you'll have problems.

Remove TS paints w/91% Isopropyl rubbing alcohol (here in the states it's available in most pharmacies/department stores/grocery stores...sometimes it's 91%, sometimes it's 99%...regular 70% isn't strong enough to remove TS paint). Works for their acrylics as well.

From experience waiting 30 days is obsurd. It may be recommended but I've had ZERO issues appling TS clear after 7 days of color coat drying.

You applied the exact same way I do but you had some problems. I don't know what this could be from? Was your wet coat too thick, maybe? Meaning where you sweeping too slow?

Nis.k.a

I think my last clear coat was perhaps a little on the "wet" side. It didn't run, in fact I did the exact same process I do to apply the base coats.

The first two mist went to perfectly fine, this then encouraged me to then apply the final wet coat. TBH, the burning of the edges isn't great, but it's not that bad..!! It hasn't run or cracked (yet). I'm half tempted to just leave it, and finish the model. It's not a show model anyhow, it's my second model in 15 years, so a few mistakes are to be expected..!!

Next time I'll be a little more careful with TS-13 clear. I'll spray three mists and a not as wet as a base coat final clear coat to get the coverage I need..

I will say though, it's got a good gloss to it.. I can see my face in it, just like a mirror..!!

I've got two pictures showing the front and rear of the car, and as can been seen the colour is a little lighter around the edges, but not that bad???

http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/502/283591ImprezaE-med.jpg

http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/502/283591ImprezaF-med.jpg

I know a lot of you wouldn't accept this, but if I apply the decals it should look half decent, or should I just write this off and strip it?

Nevermind the rear wing. It's bent I know, I messed it up.. I did break it apart and reform it, but it's still bent and needs sanding anyhow.. A member on this board very kindly offered to help me by making me a new one..

I think you realise that the problem was not that you clear coated too soon but that the wet coat was too thick. Even if you had waited a month the solvents in the thick layer of clear would still have dissolved and re-flowed the paint beneath.

Applying clear from a can is a tricky business, it is way too easy to end up with more paint than you intended. Cans have a very high flow rate and it is very difficult to see the surface and how the paint is going on because it is clear! I'm now in the habit of laying the first few coats of clear with an airbrush, gives way better control. Only then, if the surface needs a thicker coat to smooth out decals, do I hit it with a can.

I think you realise that the problem was not that you clear coated too soon but that the wet coat was too thick. Even if you had waited a month the solvents in the thick layer of clear would still have dissolved and re-flowed the paint beneath.

Applying clear from a can is a tricky business, it is way too easy to end up with more paint than you intended. Cans have a very high flow rate and it is very difficult to see the surface and how the paint is going on because it is clear! I'm now in the habit of laying the first few coats of clear with an airbrush, gives way better control. Only then, if the surface needs a thicker coat to smooth out decals, do I hit it with a can.

Can you use TS-13 over Acrylic Tamiya clear if applied with airbrush? How do you do this, as it sounds a great trick? It is hard to control the flow of paint from cans. The TS cans are not bad, but an airbrush does offer better control etc.. I'm getting on well with an airbrush now, so I'm leen to give it a go.

I've decided to just leave it, a reminder for myself to be more careful. Everytime I look at it now, it will remind me to be more careful with clear. By the time I get the panel lines done and the window trim painted black it won't actually look that bad, and the decals will cover some lines as well..!! Thankfully.

No I don't use acrylic (water based that is) rather lacquer clear. Usually CSI Creos or Finishers, they seem less hot and 'dangerous' than TS-13. One day I plan to decant some TS-13 and try shooting that through an airbrush.