98 Buick down and out!
ertcommander
02-24-2005, 11:01 PM
My wife's 98 Buick Regal LS is down and out, sitting in a repair shop garage. The mechanics are having a time trying to figure out the problem. About two weeks ago, the wife stated the speedometer was acting crazy just before the engine stalled. She described it as the needle was going haywire. I checked the new battery I had just installed and thought perhaps the alternator was to blame. The vehicle started to act out while getting it out of the parked position. The vehicle would die out, not restart, start and then the gauges would go crazy. The vehicle was then driven to the garage where the mechanics checked the battery, starter, alternator and the neutral switch. All appear fine. They now have the vehicle not starting, key stuck in the ignition and the vehicle will not get out of park. BTSI? Brake Sensor? ignition switch?Anyone have any ideas, please let me know so I can tell the mechanics!
jafulk
02-26-2005, 03:13 PM
My car does similar things. Ever since I bought the car, on random occasions, the spedometer and other gauges will all kick and the chime would beep, then everything would go back to normal. Now when I try to start the car, the gauges all kick around and the car will not come out of park. To start the car, I have to turn on the headlights, and to get the car out of park I have to press the shift release. Activating a blinker kills the engine. I contacted multiple dealerships, and the only suggestion they've had was testing the ignition system. If you find anything that works, please post your solution. I'm about to take mine to a dealership to have it repaired (thank goodness for tax returns). I'll post back if it gets repaired and let you know the results.
Goodwrench358
02-26-2005, 04:37 PM
Your alternator is about to die.
The gauges and instrument cluster panel are acting up due to the ECM (computer) trying to calibrate itself at startup. On an operational vehicle, the computer goes through setup instantaneously and the action is too fast for you to see or notice. The computer is not receiving sufficient power for it to reconfigure; therefore, the erratic gauge display is the result.
The gauges and instrument cluster panel are acting up due to the ECM (computer) trying to calibrate itself at startup. On an operational vehicle, the computer goes through setup instantaneously and the action is too fast for you to see or notice. The computer is not receiving sufficient power for it to reconfigure; therefore, the erratic gauge display is the result.
Big Dan58
02-27-2005, 02:17 PM
Goodwrench 358 is correct. I had the same problem, replaced the alternator and the problem was resolved.
willywog
04-25-2005, 11:30 PM
My car does similar things. Ever since I bought the car, on random occasions, the spedometer and other gauges will all kick and the chime would beep, then everything would go back to normal. Now when I try to start the car, the gauges all kick around and the car will not come out of park. To start the car, I have to turn on the headlights, and to get the car out of park I have to press the shift release. Activating a blinker kills the engine. I contacted multiple dealerships, and the only suggestion they've had was testing the ignition system. If you find anything that works, please post your solution. I'm about to take mine to a dealership to have it repaired (thank goodness for tax returns). I'll post back if it gets repaired and let you know the results.
I have replaced both the battery and the alternator, still have the same problem as all listed. I turn the key and nothing happens. could it possibly be a short in a wire somewhere? could the ECM have gone bad? I am at my breaking point now and would like to have a resolution to the problem, thanks
I have replaced both the battery and the alternator, still have the same problem as all listed. I turn the key and nothing happens. could it possibly be a short in a wire somewhere? could the ECM have gone bad? I am at my breaking point now and would like to have a resolution to the problem, thanks
BNaylor
04-26-2005, 12:16 AM
I have replaced both the battery and the alternator, still have the same problem as all listed. I turn the key and nothing happens. could it possibly be a short in a wire somewhere? could the ECM have gone bad? I am at my breaking point now and would like to have a resolution to the problem, thanks
When you turn the key to the 1st position do you get a clunking sound which is the solenoid in the steering column energizing, only the PRND321 LEDs should be on. Next position (2nd) you should get all the instrument panel lights and then after a few seconds they'll go out with the exception of maybe the SES light, brake light if the parking brake is applied, seatbelt light if seatbelts aren't latched, etc. Plus the digital odometer LEDs should now be on with the PRND321 and you should hear the slow chime. Of course the 3rd position is engine start.
Do you get any of the above? And do you get the same problem as one of the others where the engine will die when the turn signals are turned on.
When you turn the key to the 1st position do you get a clunking sound which is the solenoid in the steering column energizing, only the PRND321 LEDs should be on. Next position (2nd) you should get all the instrument panel lights and then after a few seconds they'll go out with the exception of maybe the SES light, brake light if the parking brake is applied, seatbelt light if seatbelts aren't latched, etc. Plus the digital odometer LEDs should now be on with the PRND321 and you should hear the slow chime. Of course the 3rd position is engine start.
Do you get any of the above? And do you get the same problem as one of the others where the engine will die when the turn signals are turned on.
willywog
04-26-2005, 02:59 PM
When you turn the key to the 1st position do you get a clunking sound which is the solenoid in the steering column energizing, only the PRND321 LEDs should be on. Next position (2nd) you should get all the instrument panel lights and then after a few seconds they'll go out with the exception of maybe the SES light, brake light if the parking brake is applied, seatbelt light if seatbelts aren't latched, etc. Plus the digital odometer LEDs should now be on with the PRND321 and you should hear the slow chime. Of course the 3rd position is engine start.
Do you get any of the above? And do you get the same problem as one of the others where the engine will die when the turn signals are turned on.
Yes, I get all of the above. I turn the ignition to the third position, and the headlamps & the instrument panel go out and nothing happens. no engine turnover whatsoever. battery is fully charged. getting power to the alternator and starter, but do not know where to go from this point. I have been told that it is either the starter or the ignition switch. where should I go from here? Thanks
Do you get any of the above? And do you get the same problem as one of the others where the engine will die when the turn signals are turned on.
Yes, I get all of the above. I turn the ignition to the third position, and the headlamps & the instrument panel go out and nothing happens. no engine turnover whatsoever. battery is fully charged. getting power to the alternator and starter, but do not know where to go from this point. I have been told that it is either the starter or the ignition switch. where should I go from here? Thanks
BNaylor
04-26-2005, 03:43 PM
Yes, I get all of the above. I turn the ignition to the third position, and the headlamps & the instrument panel go out and nothing happens. no engine turnover whatsoever. battery is fully charged. getting power to the alternator and starter, but do not know where to go from this point. I have been told that it is either the starter or the ignition switch. where should I go from here? Thanks
Just my 2 cents but I'd go with the ignition switch assembly first. If you have a multimeter, you can measure to see if the 12volts is getting to the starter solenoid with the key in the engine start position. Also check your ignition circuit fuses. Good luck!
Just my 2 cents but I'd go with the ignition switch assembly first. If you have a multimeter, you can measure to see if the 12volts is getting to the starter solenoid with the key in the engine start position. Also check your ignition circuit fuses. Good luck!
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