Just bought a 94 LHS...Need Help!!!
deb1poet
02-24-2005, 09:56 PM
I feel like I bought the car from Hell.
I had to put a new alternator in after driving it only 35 miles.
It has multiple problems one of which is the tranny of course.
The car has been sitting for quite some time, I am not sure how long....let's just say we figured it out when there were cobwebs on the engine.
It keeps going in and out of "safe mode", changed both the input and output speed sensors. It seems to have helped but it still is a pretty rough downshift and a shudder when you come to a stop.
I know I need to change the tranny fluid and filter (especially since the car has been sitting)
But I am afraid to get a flush done for fear of blowing the seals.
Any suggestions for a car that has been sitting for a while guys?
Thanks
Poet
I had to put a new alternator in after driving it only 35 miles.
It has multiple problems one of which is the tranny of course.
The car has been sitting for quite some time, I am not sure how long....let's just say we figured it out when there were cobwebs on the engine.
It keeps going in and out of "safe mode", changed both the input and output speed sensors. It seems to have helped but it still is a pretty rough downshift and a shudder when you come to a stop.
I know I need to change the tranny fluid and filter (especially since the car has been sitting)
But I am afraid to get a flush done for fear of blowing the seals.
Any suggestions for a car that has been sitting for a while guys?
Thanks
Poet
theFREAKnasty82
02-25-2005, 03:54 AM
A tranny flush won't really hurt it, it's not a bad idea to have any gunk or crap in there flushed out. If you don't want to go that route, still do the transmission service but only use MOPAR ATF +4. Nothing else will work in this transmission and will give you even more problems if you use anything else.
deb1poet
02-25-2005, 05:20 PM
I think LHS stands for LIVING HELL SEDAN!!!!!!
Well, now the gas gauge and dummy light are going wacko.....the tank is full and it goes between empty and full and the gas pump light goes on and off when the gauge fluctuates.
The tranny is still going in and out of safe mode and the brake pedal is fading at lights and the valve cover leaks oil and the front end is making popping sounds and the sunroof doesn't seat right in place and the ........
I think I am going to cry......
On second thought......I need a drink!
Well, now the gas gauge and dummy light are going wacko.....the tank is full and it goes between empty and full and the gas pump light goes on and off when the gauge fluctuates.
The tranny is still going in and out of safe mode and the brake pedal is fading at lights and the valve cover leaks oil and the front end is making popping sounds and the sunroof doesn't seat right in place and the ........
I think I am going to cry......
On second thought......I need a drink!
AWP9521
02-25-2005, 11:16 PM
I got a 94 LHS also, my Fuel guage did that from the first day I bought the car, To fix it was to change the Fuel Pump assembly I scored a used one from a wrecking yard, much cheaper than a new one as either way you get both the pump and sender as a unit.
Before you groan, it's really quite an easy change, Drive the car until it's almost empty (At least 1/8 of a tank leftover) that way the job will not be as messy, and get a 5 gallon gas can full of gas. To start, you need to relieve the fuel pressure in the fuel system, I did that by starting the car and opening up the Power Distribution Box under the hood and pulling the Fuel Pump Relay out, the car will run a few seconds and die right out, shut off the key and replace the Relay and close up the box and the hood. Then open the trunk and starting at the back seat, pull the trunk liner towards the back of the car and you will uncover a shiney metal plate that will have "Fuel Pump Access" stamped on it. Go get some plastic sheeting and lay it over the floor of the trunk so you don't accidently get any gas on the liner or the matting underneath it, cut an "X" in the plastic in the center of the plate but not past the edges, then remove the 4 bolts and the cover comes right off exposing the top of the Fuel Tank and the Pump, push the plastic into the exposed hole and fold it around the perimeter of the hole to lessen the mess. The Fuel Lines (black Plastic) have 2 little plastic tabs, squeeze the tabs and the lines should pull straight off, the Rubber Vent line should pull right off of the Vent, and then disconnect the wiring connector. The Fuel Pump is held to the tank with a stainless steel band similar to what you might find on a 55 gallon drum, simply unscrew the clamp with a screwdriver or the appropriate size socket to remove it. The pump assembly is spring loaded, when the clamp is loose enough it will pop straight up about an inch or so, then remove the band clamp and pull the pump straight out, make a note on how the line fittings are oriented in relation to the tank before removing, so the replacement can be installed in the same orientation, make sure there is a rubber gasket on the bottom lip of the replacement pump assembly and reinsert it into the tank and turn it so it is orientled correctly, push straight down on the top of the assembly so it seats against the tank and install the clamp, when installing the clamp make sure the band seats over the lip of the tank and the top of the pump, keep downward pressure on the pump while tightening until the clamp is tight, try and pull the pump back out of the tank, if it comes out then you didn't install the clamp correctly, loosen the clamp and try again. if the pump doesn't move or turn then you should be good to go, connect the wiring and all the lines back where they belong. Take the 5 gallon can with the gas in it and pour it into the tank before atempting to start the car as more gas in it will make it easier to prime the pump, then go ahead and try starting the car, cycle the key in the ON position for about 3 seconds then back OFF, do that again a second time, (This cycles the fuel pump on for a few seconds to build pressure in the fuel system) on the third cycle try to start the car, it should start but if it doesn't, don't grind on the starter, shut the key off and wait about a minute then do the ON / OFF cycling of the key twice again then try it again, eventually it will start but it may run rough for a little bit til the air gets purged out of the fuel line then should smooth right out.
Before you groan, it's really quite an easy change, Drive the car until it's almost empty (At least 1/8 of a tank leftover) that way the job will not be as messy, and get a 5 gallon gas can full of gas. To start, you need to relieve the fuel pressure in the fuel system, I did that by starting the car and opening up the Power Distribution Box under the hood and pulling the Fuel Pump Relay out, the car will run a few seconds and die right out, shut off the key and replace the Relay and close up the box and the hood. Then open the trunk and starting at the back seat, pull the trunk liner towards the back of the car and you will uncover a shiney metal plate that will have "Fuel Pump Access" stamped on it. Go get some plastic sheeting and lay it over the floor of the trunk so you don't accidently get any gas on the liner or the matting underneath it, cut an "X" in the plastic in the center of the plate but not past the edges, then remove the 4 bolts and the cover comes right off exposing the top of the Fuel Tank and the Pump, push the plastic into the exposed hole and fold it around the perimeter of the hole to lessen the mess. The Fuel Lines (black Plastic) have 2 little plastic tabs, squeeze the tabs and the lines should pull straight off, the Rubber Vent line should pull right off of the Vent, and then disconnect the wiring connector. The Fuel Pump is held to the tank with a stainless steel band similar to what you might find on a 55 gallon drum, simply unscrew the clamp with a screwdriver or the appropriate size socket to remove it. The pump assembly is spring loaded, when the clamp is loose enough it will pop straight up about an inch or so, then remove the band clamp and pull the pump straight out, make a note on how the line fittings are oriented in relation to the tank before removing, so the replacement can be installed in the same orientation, make sure there is a rubber gasket on the bottom lip of the replacement pump assembly and reinsert it into the tank and turn it so it is orientled correctly, push straight down on the top of the assembly so it seats against the tank and install the clamp, when installing the clamp make sure the band seats over the lip of the tank and the top of the pump, keep downward pressure on the pump while tightening until the clamp is tight, try and pull the pump back out of the tank, if it comes out then you didn't install the clamp correctly, loosen the clamp and try again. if the pump doesn't move or turn then you should be good to go, connect the wiring and all the lines back where they belong. Take the 5 gallon can with the gas in it and pour it into the tank before atempting to start the car as more gas in it will make it easier to prime the pump, then go ahead and try starting the car, cycle the key in the ON position for about 3 seconds then back OFF, do that again a second time, (This cycles the fuel pump on for a few seconds to build pressure in the fuel system) on the third cycle try to start the car, it should start but if it doesn't, don't grind on the starter, shut the key off and wait about a minute then do the ON / OFF cycling of the key twice again then try it again, eventually it will start but it may run rough for a little bit til the air gets purged out of the fuel line then should smooth right out.
deb1poet
02-26-2005, 10:12 AM
Thank you so much AWP for your response.
I am not a mechanic so the instructions are not required. Just an armchair diagnosis.
I guess I was hoping I would get more responses.
I am so frustrated.
When I bought it I took two guy friends with me that I thought were pretty savvy. Big mistake. They were so overwhelmed with the luxury and and new paint and leather and the bells and whistles that they just glossed over the mechanical.
It has been just one new problem after another.
I am a single parent so I don't have the money to put into this car.
What can I do that is cheap to make it better so that I can sell it?
I tried the Lucas in the gas and tranny. Seemed to help the tranny but made the engine run rough.
Maybe it clogged up the fuel filter when it cleaned out all the junk in the fuel system? Should I replace the fuel filter?
I have already put over $500 in this car since last Saturday.
I have always driven mopar and loved it, but I have to admit after doing some searching online that THIS car is a pile of junk with many design flaws.
If I can just get the money I paid for it to buy another car with.
Thanks for any suggestions you might have.
Poet :~()
I am not a mechanic so the instructions are not required. Just an armchair diagnosis.
I guess I was hoping I would get more responses.
I am so frustrated.
When I bought it I took two guy friends with me that I thought were pretty savvy. Big mistake. They were so overwhelmed with the luxury and and new paint and leather and the bells and whistles that they just glossed over the mechanical.
It has been just one new problem after another.
I am a single parent so I don't have the money to put into this car.
What can I do that is cheap to make it better so that I can sell it?
I tried the Lucas in the gas and tranny. Seemed to help the tranny but made the engine run rough.
Maybe it clogged up the fuel filter when it cleaned out all the junk in the fuel system? Should I replace the fuel filter?
I have already put over $500 in this car since last Saturday.
I have always driven mopar and loved it, but I have to admit after doing some searching online that THIS car is a pile of junk with many design flaws.
If I can just get the money I paid for it to buy another car with.
Thanks for any suggestions you might have.
Poet :~()
deb1poet
02-27-2005, 07:53 AM
C'mon people help me here.
Anybody? Somebody?
Anybody? Somebody?
troy1
02-28-2005, 10:02 PM
Sounds to mean like bad grounds!!
find em and clean um
find em and clean um
deb1poet
03-02-2005, 09:30 AM
Troy,
Thank you troy for your reply.
I can't believe all these smart guys on here and nobody is responding.....
Where would I look for the grounds and how do I clean them?
The gas gauge only goes wacky between 2/3 aand 7/8 full. Once it drops below 2/3 is doesn't do it any more. Bad sending unit?
If the tranny is getting ready to go out will it keep going into safe mode?
I noticed yesterday that once the car got really warmed up, after driving about an hour, the tranny started shifting real hard from first to second and also when it downshifts.
Thanks
Poet
Thank you troy for your reply.
I can't believe all these smart guys on here and nobody is responding.....
Where would I look for the grounds and how do I clean them?
The gas gauge only goes wacky between 2/3 aand 7/8 full. Once it drops below 2/3 is doesn't do it any more. Bad sending unit?
If the tranny is getting ready to go out will it keep going into safe mode?
I noticed yesterday that once the car got really warmed up, after driving about an hour, the tranny started shifting real hard from first to second and also when it downshifts.
Thanks
Poet
Bob Bauman
07-07-2005, 10:58 PM
was there any thing on the speed sensors ? if so the tranny will need to come out
If the tranny is getting ready to go out will it keep going into safe mode?yes
If the tranny is getting ready to go out will it keep going into safe mode?yes
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