lowering kit

is there away that i could lower my truck and what is the best brand name to use when doing it

lots of ways, how experened with a wrench are you, whats your budges and what kind of drop do you want??

im pretty good with a wrench my budget is low--im a senior in high school so im takin this process real slow-plus its winter time where i live but i still work in the snow (i dont have a garage) so its gonna take awhile

just buy quality drop spindles for the front, and shackles for the rear

you can get a mild drop kit for like 25 bucks from autozone, or best off is drop spindles, and drop blocks, shackles or flip the axil in the back

the axle on s-10's is already on the low side, so it's either lowering blocks, or shackles

If you can send in before and after photo's

yip, my bad

Your best bet for ride quality and ease of installation would be spindles and blocks. They both simply raise your wheel center up and don't change your spring rate so it's not bouncy or anything. That will generally but you with a 2/3 drop which will make the truck level. You could probably pick the spindles up from $125-$150. The blocks you can get from AZ or Advance, really anywhere for about $20-$30. If you get them the same time you get the spindles you can probably save a little. I got mine from God Father several years ago at a show. It easly a day job.

If you are looking for "dirt cheap", go with lowering blocks and lowering springs for the front. The springs are easier to put in then the spindles. Or you can even cut a coil or two off of the existing front springs. But this will eventually hurt the front end.

If you are looking for "dirt cheap", go with lowering blocks and lowering springs for the front. The springs are easier to put in then the spindles. Or you can even cut a coil or two off of the existing front springs. But this will eventually hurt the front end.

:screwy: How is it possible that a spring is easier to put in than a spindle. Did you happen to think you have to take the spindle out to put the spring in. And if you took that think out and cut it's going to ride like hell. If anybody tells you differant it's because they've done the same thing and they are to proud to admit it rides rough. Springs are indeed cheaper but I found them much harder to put in, even with a spring compressor. Don't forget if you get springs to get the Bell-Tech spacer because the drivers side will sit 3/4" lower if you go with after market springs.

Check out www.s10forum.com for all your S-10 needs :smile:

:screwy: How is it possible that a spring is easier to put in than a spindle. Did you happen to think you have to take the spindle out to put the spring in. And if you took that think out and cut it's going to ride like hell. If anybody tells you differant it's because they've done the same thing and they are to proud to admit it rides rough. Springs are indeed cheaper but I found them much harder to put in, even with a spring compressor. Don't forget if you get springs to get the Bell-Tech spacer because the drivers side will sit 3/4" lower if you go with after market springs.

Check out www.s10forum.com for all your S-10 needs :smile:

It is easier because ....

When you take the existing spring out you only have to disconnect the spindle in one spot, the bottom ball joint. When you do this you do not have to remove the brake pads and caliper. Therefore, you do not have to bleed the brakes, re-pack the wheel bearing. All you do is place a jack under the lower control arm; separate the lower ball joint and lower the jack. The springs on the S10 do not come flying out, as with other trucks and there is plenty of room to remove the spring, cut the coil and put the spring back in. A spring compressor is NOT required for these trucks. I have done this on several trucks.

Yes, the ride is rougher then using a spindle. I have used both lower springs and done the "cut spring" thing and I found a slight difference between the two ways, but nothing major.

It is easier because ....

When you take the existing spring out you only have to disconnect the spindle in one spot, the bottom ball joint. When you do this you do not have to remove the brake pads and caliper. Therefore, you do not have to bleed the brakes, re-pack the wheel bearing. All you do is place a jack under the lower control arm; separate the lower ball joint and lower the jack. The springs on the S10 do not come flying out, as with other trucks and there is plenty of room to remove the spring, cut the coil and put the spring back in. A spring compressor is NOT required for these trucks. I have done this on several trucks.

Yes, the ride is rougher then using a spindle. I have used both lower springs and done the "cut spring" thing and I found a slight difference between the two ways, but nothing major.
Why would you have to take the caliper off(so that you would have to bleed the brakes) and why would you have to repack the bearing? :screwy:

Your both right. No, you don't have to unbolt the caliper from the hose, just hang it out of the way. You don't have to repack the bearings but if you've got a lot of miles, why not. No, you don't HAVE to remove the spindle an all asociated crap that goes with it but in my opinion it's easier. You are probably right about the differance between the springs riding differant. I noticed a big differance when I put my 1" springs in. And for what it's worth it took me a hell of a lot longer to do the springs than the spindles. I couldn't get the darn things to take a seat, it sucked and I'll never do it again w/o going to bags.

Lets face it, 90% of us really should be re-packing our bearings, and bleeding the brakes. If you have the front end 1/2 pulled apart I strongly sugest that you do all the ignored maintence there... including grease it.

thanks guys

ok, hate to ask it, but what is and how do you repack barrings?

Repacking the bearings is putting new grease in your wheel bearings. Your wheel bearings allow your vehicle to roll. Some are sealed (not ours) some are not (ours). When I did mine I just scooped out the old grease with my hand and took a new big blob and put it in the center of the brake rotor. Then I packed it in the bearings. It would be much easier for understand if you get a Haynes manual. It's more of a visual thing. Also, if you plan on repacking the inner bearing, don't forget to go to the parts store and get a new inner wheel seal. There only like $2 but you don't want to try to reuse the old one in case it tears up.

you can get a mild drop kit for like 25 bucks from autozone, or best off is drop spindles, and drop blocks, shackles or flip the axil in the back
Never buy anything that seems too good to be true. On suspension you never ever go cheap. 9 times out of ten something WILL go wrong or not install correctly.

Anyways, look at DJM, McGaughys, and Belltech. All quality kits.

they are 2" drop blocks, nothing more then a hunk of i beleve aluminum and u bolts