Attaching rivets

Hi!
I'm in the process of attaching a lot of Sakatsu rivets on my model and I have some doubts on how to go ahead with it. The rivets are, as you know, mounted on a relatively long pin that has to be cut after attachement. Would it be best to attach the rivet, glue it in place, cut the pin and do some necessary sanding OR is it better to attach the rivet and then cut the pin before adding any glue?
In my case the rivets have to have a close bond to the car body and I'm thinking that cutting the pin after glueing it could distance the rivet from the body.
Hmm as always I'm not that pedagogical and tend to write to much, but perhaps someone gets the idea and can give me some hints.
best regards
Joel

I would imagine releasing the rivet from the tree would be the best idea. I had a thought on how to apply these and might work for you!

Detach the rivet from the tree. Sand if necessary. Attach a small piece of blu-tack to the end of a cocktail stick. Pick up the rivet with this cocktail-stick-blu-tack concoction. Apply a small amount of CA glue. Place the rivet on kit. Hold for a couple of seconds then pull the cocktail stick (the blu-tack should come with it). Voila!

One of the super-dooper modellers on this site may have better solutions but incase no-one else replies to your plight this should do.

well, i've never used this kind of rivet. but if i was to use rivets, i'd place it in, check length, cut, then glue.








WTF is pedagogic?

I wouldn't recomand cutting affter gluing, there is the issue of damageing the paint, body, rivet it self and of course it could deatach from the body, I don't know if you are able to get to the other side of the hole (through which the pin will go through) but I usualy put it dry in hole and glue it from the other side (cut to appropriate lenght before of course).

WTF is pedagogic?

Main Entry: ped·a·gog·i·cal
Pronunciation: "pe-d&-'gä-ji-k&l, -'gO-
Variant(s): also ped·a·gog·ic /-jik/
Function: adjective
: of, relating to, or befitting a teacher or education
- ped·a·gog·i·cal·ly /-ji-k(&-)lE/ adverb

:iceslolan

My thought on attaching the rivet would be to use a small dot of clear coat or gloss coat instead of glue, you run less chance of damaging precious paintwork and have a little more time to seat the rivet nicely.

Other than that, I agree you should rather trim the rivet prior to final location, and try to leave attaching rivets as late in the process as possible.

thanks Freakray, i can now use new words. well at least one.


sorry if i'm being stupid, brain has trouble working at 12pm on a thursday.

As I understood it with these rivets, holes need to be drilled for them first, pin set into the hole and that's it. The length of protruding pin on the underside allows you to apply a blob of CA to keep them in place, no cutting required.

I will have to go with a combination of your ideas. Some of the rivets has to go on early as they are partially going to be covered with decals. Perhaps it's an idea to attach these ones and then cover with clear to get them to sit tight and then apply the decals? The ones for the bonnet will go on later and don't seem to get me into trouble, well maybe one or two that might interfer with the head lights. Will have to sand these down properly from the inside.
Thank's for all your input, and the english lesson Freakray ;-) I changed the spelling on top...
/Joel

I havent see model rivets. If you have any pics please do post them! I'd love to see these.

Are these rivets the type like real rivets/bolts with a head on a central shaft? Or PE with the attatchement to a fret, like runners on plastic parts. Process would be different for each.

If they are like pins then drill a hole, inset the rivet and glue from the rear (if possible). The PE type are much fiddlier, I always remove them first, sand down the cuttoff mark and proptly lose them.

Ok, could have explained a bit better I guess.
The pin rivets are of this type
http://www.hlj.com/product/SAK4449
and as you can see they have a fairly long pin that has to go through a drilled hole. If they were to go through the bonnet they could be left uncut but as they are to be mounted on the plate behind the doors of my 206 pug they have to be pretty much in level with the body not to interfer with the inside door panels.
/Joel

In that case, drill the hole, inset and glue. Then trim them off from behind using a pair of sidecutters. If the shock of the cut moves them, then trim first, push back in and glue last. A few mm protrusion won't foul the innner door panels will it?

A few mm protrusion won't foul the innner door panels will it?

No, guess not. Have to wait until my new airbrush arrives then I show some updates.
regards
Joel