Engine Swap

ok how hard would it to be to put this engine in my 90 5.0 mustang.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=33615&item=7955741106&rd=1

and also is that engine any good, would it put that much horse power out, and latet could i ad a super charger with out blowing the engie up (i guess im saying is how good is the cam shaft and the pistons)
Thanks

ok how hard would it to be to put this engine in my 90 5.0 mustang.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=33615&item=7955741106&rd=1

and also is that engine any good, would it put that much horse power out, and latet could i ad a super charger with out blowing the engie up (i guess im saying is how good is the cam shaft and the pistons)
Thanks

It's a basic rebuild... meaning marginal componets, nothing I would trust on a boosted application. This is the kind of engine that you put into a car or truck that is just used for basic transportation.

Rods are resized on precision computerized machines to match factory tolerances == reconditioned rods... aka rods that have milage on them already.

Short blocks are assembled with the best parts available
Ohh really, so I guess the rods are better than what Manley makes... :rolleyes:

They are using a Cast Iron Custom Ground .... yeah ummm lets see, used cranks have to be reground.. which would then be a custom grind right? and didn't they sayShort blocks are assembled with the best parts available so I guess it must be better than a FORGED crank? Oh please.............
There Buy it now price: US $2,850.00

They said All Blocks Will Be Boil, Bored & Honed Accordingly (0.40 over bore) that's alot... which takes them to a 308cu... most shops stop at .30over 306cu.....

And if your going to add boost.... that is not the engine to use, and have it reliable and last a long time. You need to shop else where....

I'm gonna call BS on that engine.....

Go to this link
http://www.coasthigh.com/Assemblies/Ford/ford_306.htm

Get a engine that is built right, with forged rods and can handle boost.

Or get this, a 331 stroker and add boost.
http://www.coasthigh.com/Assemblies/Ford/ford_331.htm

Call them up, and skip that other crap.

so the engine is no good, and the horse power rating is no good to right, does any one know of some good places for crate engines

or how is this one
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=33615&item=7955014426&rd=1

or how is this one
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=33615&item=7955014426&rd=1

Remember this, you get exactly what you pay for. I don't know anything about that engine builder so Im not gonna bad mouth them they may actually make a decent motor. But in the event they don't any you have a problem how helpful are they gonna be is the question you need to ask yourself.

If Im gonna spend my hard earned dollar on a motor I wanna be sure that the builder is gonna stand behind it. So go with someone who has a good reputation and is well known in the performance world. I personnally plan on buying my motor from D.S.S.

CHP is also a well known engine builder. Buying an engine is a hefty espense make sure you only end up doing it once.

Or get a damn stock 302, throw some ARP's in it and some good heads if you want and boost it. Don't fuck with a 331 kit when your stock block is weaker than your stock crank.

^^Amen brother. I'm personally a fan of DSS's Long Rod 306, we basically did the same thing on mine except with Eagle rods and SRP pistons.

Just be sure to stud the mains and put in a girdle, we didn't on mine and now I'm kicking myself.

I don't like that fact that they are using remaned crank and rods. I also don't like the 8.5:1 compression, not what I would want on a motor with that much work. Also going .040" over is just making the walls thinner then need be. Most I would go is .030" over. Then the price is way too high, you could by a CHP or DSS motor for that with a better reputation.

Why not just pick up an old 302 block, bring it to a local machine shop, have it bored and cleaned up, then assemble the motor with your specs for a heck of a lot cheaper.

I don't like that fact that they are using remaned crank and rods. I also don't like the 8.5:1 compression, not what I would want on a motor with that much work. Also going .040" over is just making the walls thinner then need be. Most I would go is .030" over. Then the price is way too high, you could by a CHP or DSS motor for that with a better reputation.

Why not just pick up an old 302 block, bring it to a local machine shop, have it bored and cleaned up, then assemble the motor with your specs for a heck of a lot cheaper.

I was always told that, that was the expensive route to go. By the time you get through buying all the new internals don't you end up spending the same money?

do the chp come with heads

I don't like that fact that they are using remaned crank and rods. I also don't like the 8.5:1 compression, not what I would want on a motor with that much work. Also going .040" over is just making the walls thinner then need be. Most I would go is .030" over. Then the price is way too high, you could by a CHP or DSS motor for that with a better reputation.

Why not just pick up an old 302 block, bring it to a local machine shop, have it bored and cleaned up, then assemble the motor with your specs for a heck of a lot cheaper.

Thats what I'm in the process of doing now. I've got a 1976 302 I'm stroking to a 347 for my 66 Mustang. Looking at a 1949 F-1 now to put my 351 in. But for my 347 I spent $1100 on Edelbrock RPM heads, Air-Gap intake for about $230 i think and around $250 for my carb. Next week I'm ordering my Edel. hydro roller RPM cam for about $200, Crane retrofit lifters for $425, and an Eagle stroker kit with forged pistons and rods with a cast crank for about $1250. Once you add all the other stuff: Comp Pro Mag RR's, oil pump, fuel pump, valve covers, ect ect I'm looking at spending somewhere around $4,000 on my engine. Maybe $4500 depending on what the machine shop says. Then I'm buying a TCI Streetfighter C4 and the stall converter to go with it.
So yes quality is expensive. Non-roller components are much cheaper. Just gotta decide how much power you want, then how much power you can handle out of your dream world. Then take a look at your budget and go from there. I just went with all thats Performer RPM Edelbrock stuff because I wanted to aviod valvetrain expenses as far as changing springs for a bigger cam and fly cutting pistons and what not. Just do whatever you are most comfortable with.