95 Regulator replacement & ball joint problems

I've found that my car wants to give me nothing but trouble. I have replaced 3 window regulators in my car and still need to replace 2 more (yes that is 5 with only 4 windows). I'm tired of paying 150 - 280 dollars to get this item fixed. I found these instructions (for 1992, See below) online and was wondering if anyone has fixed the regulator in a 1995 and if these instructions would work (keep in mind I have never actually fixed anything in a car before).

Also, I was also wondering if anyone else in this forum has had ball joint problems. I have had 2 ball joints snap (on seperate occasions) while I was driving the car and eventually ended up replacing the entire ball joint (upper and lower) for both sides in the front end. Is this typical? I'm kind of scared to drive my car a lot now because I'm worried I may end up in an accident.

Thanks!!!

Directions
----------------------------------------------
Here are some tips on the 1992 Mercury power window regulator replacement:

1. Price was about $67 for the regulator--a 2 foot long metal track with
glass bracket and wire pulleys and a spring-loaded gear-driven plastic
drum--- at my Mercury dealer. This seemed reasonable so I didn't try anyone else. Be very careful handling this part---if you twist the cables wrong, so that the spring loaded wire jumps off its track, the whole thing blows apart and is virtually impossible to put back together. Leave it alone until later.

2. Removing door panel is pretty easy--three long screws, one short one in the door-handle cavity, and two (tricky)short ones under rubber ends of the "pull" handle, that you have to pry the rubber out to get to. So five in all.

3. It is possible to push the switch panel in the arm rest out through the
hole without unplugging the electrics. Stay with it and it will work. Keep
the switches hot to control the motor later. Unplug the side lamp, remove the door panel, unplug the lamp bulb and set aside.

4. Unplug the motor wiring harnass.

5. Remove the plastic weatherproofing from the major holes in the door. I just pulled it back and rolled it away--tucking it into itself . I just
re-used it later--even the same glue.

6. Unscrew three long screws holding motor and regulator drum. This takes a special star-shaped driver bit. Luckily I had one. remove the motor from the door.

7. The regulator metal track attaches to the door with two bolts at top and two rivets at the bottom. The rivets at the bottom are 1/4"pop rivets and the steel shanks were still protruding 1/8" from the rivet. It may be possible to knock these shanks out -- into the door--- so you only have to drill aluminum, but I didn't have much luck with this. Instead, I drilled from the side with 3/16--3/8" bits until the shank was cut and I drilled out the aluminum rivet. The 7/16" nuts on the top two bolts are under a bracket for the door pull handle, but I managed them with a universal joint on a 3/8" socket. You will not be able to get the regulator out until you cut the two rivets that hold the regulator to the glass and remove the glass from the door.

8. Everything should now be loose, so that the window should be moveable up and down by hand.

9. Move the glass down until the rivet holding it to the brass-colored
horizontal bracket is visible in the big door hole. Get a BIG drill---3/4 "
to 1"--and make a hole in the sheet metal door panel to allow direct access to the forward rivet when the aft rivet is in the big hole. Drill this big
access hole.

10. Start drilling the rivets. I needed to use very long drill bits from
the side, and vice-grips, pliers etc to wiggle away the cut metal. Finally
the rivets gave way. With a small screwdriver, carefully pop the round
plastic protector-washers from the glass. The glass can then be pushed up and out of the door, carefully pushing and pulling up from the large end
(rear).

11. Remove the old regulator.

12. To replace the rivets, go to a hardware store and buy four 1/4 "
full-thread hex bolts, two 3/4" long for the bottom on the regulator, and
two 1" long for the glass bracket, and four 1/4" LOCK nuts.

13. Now the part I had to learn the hard way. The motor and regulator attach to each other and the door with the three screws. The first time I tried to do this, I put everything together and then tried to attach the
motor/regulator, and the springs of the regulator gave way and it "blew up". (The dealership replaced it without charge.) The key is this: before you do anything else, attach the motor to the regulator with one plastic tie. The three screw-holes only line up one way. Then, push the whole contraption into place. You can go ahead and re-attach the two top nuts. Attach the motor to the door with two screws but leave loose. Cut the plastic tie with wire cutters, remove tie and start remaining screw. Tighten all three screws. Put two 1/4" x 3/4" bolts and locknuts in bottom of regulator. Attach motor wiring harnass, and turn on ignition and test the motor/regulator (no glass in door now). Move bracket to a low position.

14. Put glass in door--front (narrow) part first. Drop it into it's track
until it moves freely. Pop the two plastic protector-washers into the two holes in the glass. Raise the bracket using the window motor until you can see the bracket holes in the hole you drilled and the big hole. Bolt the glass to the bracket using the 1" long bolts and locknuts.

15. Replace door panel.

Sounds about right and should work (maybe with minor mods) for your MGM. I've done both a 93 and an 86 and this sounds right.

One thing to be careful of, is breaking the window glass. On my '93 it cost me an extra $100. Good luck with it, and it helps to have an extra pair of hands at some points in the job.

Sorry; forgot the ball joints. I never had a problem, but there are several posts here about ball joints failing and having to be replaced, so it's not an uncommon problem.

Thanks for the response!
Once I get all the parts neccessary I am going to practice on my back window, will message back if I need help.

Good luck with it.

My 94 GM just lost the driver window power, and when i opened up the panel the regulator cables were all tangled up and the top one was diconnected from wherever it hooks up top. I ordered the regulator and will attempt to install it.
One question, is that regulator all one unit? I was going to just try to rewind the cables on the spool and rehook the top cable, but i couldnt figure out where it attaches up top. I gave up and ordered a new one, from ebay because the dealer wanted $80. Also does the window just pop out from the outside once you have unclamped it from the regulator. Can i just force it past the window seals that overlap it or do i need to somhow take those off?

Regulators go bad...regularly. There's several posts about replacing them, but basically you've got to remove the motor/regulator from inside the door, and attach the new one. If you're handy it's easy to see how to do it once you get started, but space is tight inside the door, so be ready to contort your wrist/hand. Just be careful not to break the glass like I did my first time. :)