security

i have a 95 olds my security light stays on, and the car wont start. i waited to 3 mins. to see if i would get the dirt key message but i didnt. what could be the problem?
thankx in advance for any information.

i have a 95 olds my security light stays on, and the car wont start. i waited to 3 mins. to see if i would get the dirt key message but i didnt. what could be the problem?
thankx in advance for any information.

:2cents:WoW car won't start? I had a similar problem...
I lightend the load on my key ring to just the start up key & trunk & key fob. No other keys, because this extra weight causes the key chain to (hang) out of the ignition switch, causing the SECURITY light to come on.

I had the same problem so I cleaned the chip on the key and checked the fuses under the rear seat. In the end, the ignition switch was the culprit. Good luck!

The security system relies on the little resistor in the key, as well as contacts in the ignition switch and a couple of small wires from that to the computer. If there is a problem with any of these, the engine will not start. The computer has to measure the resistor in the key and determine if it is the correct value, before instructing the PCM that it is OK to start the engine.

Unfortunately, there isn't an easy answer. Do you have a spare key, and does that act the same? If it does, then you likely have a problem with the ignition switch, or the wires that run from the key contacts to the computer.

way to go, Newbie ITGeek...and welcome to the Automotive Forum!:smokin:

I've been poking around on a couple of these forums lately. I recently purchased a 95 with 152K miles from a friend of my mom's. The information that I found in this forum was especially helpful in making my decision because I'm a real DIY mechanic and felt confident that I could tackle just about everything that one deals with on this car. I was also able to do an extended test drive (a couple of days), and really checked the car out in advance.

Anyway, I only paid $2000 for the car and have put about $1000 in parts into it. The labor was free, of course. I'm now down to look and feel stuff for the most part, so I'd say I've gotten a great deal for about $3000. For a guy of my means, and four kids, the Aurora is about the only way for me to have a luxury vehicle. Here is a quick laundry list of things that I have done:

- Both front wheel hub assemblies
- Both front swaybar links (when doing the hubs)
- Radiator inlet tank
- Alternator
- Power steering pump
- Serpentine belt
- Throttle body vacuum line assembly
- PCV bushing
- Front control arm bushings
- Idler and tensioner pulleys
- Plugs and wires
- Fixed broken rear door handle
- Fixed driver's lumbar seat
- Fixed broken wires in driver's door

That's about it at this point. The only other mechanical issue is the ELC compressor not shutting off. There is probably a leak in one of the air lines, but the weather around here has not gotten decent enough for me to get under the car and really diagnose things.

So, when you add up the repairs, it would have cost a small fortune at the dealer. I've been able to do everything listed for under $1000. Now I've got a car that runs great, rides great, and looks pretty good.

I'm starting to work on undercarriage items like the wheel wells. I've been cleaning them one at a time, priming where necessary, and applying new undercoating. It makes sense to keep this beauty from rusting out. When I worked on the radiator, I took the extra time to clean, prime and paint the body structure under the radiator, as well as the front part of the powertrain cradle. It's not a lot of extra work to do this sort of this thing, doesn't cost a lot, and helps to keep the car from rusting.

I'm starting to work on the paint to deal with chips and scratches. This car was driven quite a bit, and the body is showing it in places. If I can get the paint looking good, then I will have a car that looks and drives almost like new.

I enjoy passing on tidbits that I have found in doing my own repairs for those who are up to doing some of their own repairs instead of going through the dealer. In some cases, you need a pretty complete set of tools to do the work. But you can rent some of the really exotic numbers for free at some auto parts stores. Having the factory service manual is also really important for the DIY mechanic. I was lucky, because the manual set for the 95 can be gotten for $30. Once you get into 96 and up, you're looking at over $100.

I've posted a pretty extensive write-up on replacing the radiator tank. And will continue to post these kinds of things when doing repairs that other DIY guys might find helpful. The parts costs for this car can definitely be higher, but it is still the labor that kills you.

I think that the Aurora can be a great vehicle. Unfortunately, there are some common issues with these cars that can be very costly. But you don't get something for nothing. If you are buying a car that cost $30K to $40K for $2K to $5K, then you should be prepared to pony up the money and the time because you will spend it for a car that looks this good, but has this kind of depreciation. I think that GM rushed this one, got kind of cheap on some of the materials, maybe a little of both. It is a great deal for those of us that can do alot of the work ourselves. For a car that performs like this, I'd wouldn't even thing of doing anything differently.

Check out

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?p=2953555#post2953555

well its been awhile since I've been on here, No one has been able to help me with my car, I've tried everything. I've done almost all the trouble shooting with my car, It just wont start. When it does start it runs fine. But the security light flashes constantly But before it all stopped working I was getting a pass key II system fault, there is nothing in those aurora books that talks about that. I've been out of a car for 3 months. Im not sure what to do. Im thinking about just buying another one, but since Im in such finacial trouble because of the winter and having no work it just sucks, man if anyone can help me. The only trouble shooting I haven't done is the one on page 8-714 on the 99 books it might be the same with the others. "security indicator always on or flashing" I need Gm tools to trouble shoot it and now GM is charging 90 bucks per hour to work on the dang car so Im pretty much screwed from this point. I've replaced the starter, ignition switch, theft deterrent relay, battery, pnp, and Checked wires i've done everything. someone give me some info please

before this all happened I also had the problem with the car sometimes starting and sometimes not. Then all of a sudden it would start. :banghead:

well im just buying another aurora for a grand so therefore the money I wouldn't have put into fixing the dang thing I just was able to buy anther car. lol Now I have parts or maybe later I'll put it in the shop to fix.

well its been awhile since I've been on here, No one has been able to help me with my car, I've tried everything. I've done almost all the trouble shooting with my car, It just wont start. When it does start it runs fine. But the security light flashes constantly But before it all stopped working I was getting a pass key II system fault, there is nothing in those aurora books that talks about that. I've been out of a car for 3 months. Im not sure what to do. Im thinking about just buying another one, but since Im in such finacial trouble because of the winter and having no work it just sucks, man if anyone can help me. The only trouble shooting I haven't done is the one on page 8-714 on the 99 books it might be the same with the others. "security indicator always on or flashing" I need Gm tools to trouble shoot it and now GM is charging 90 bucks per hour to work on the dang car so Im pretty much screwed from this point. I've replaced the starter, ignition switch, theft deterrent relay, battery, pnp, and Checked wires i've done everything. someone give me some info please

before this all happened I also had the problem with the car sometimes starting and sometimes not. Then all of a sudden it would start. :banghead:

I hope this doesn't sound daft but did you ever reset your ECU?

yep

well its been awhile since I've been on here, No one has been able to help me with my car, I've tried everything. I've done almost all the trouble shooting with my car, It just wont start. When it does start it runs fine. But the security light flashes constantly But before it all stopped working I was getting a pass key II system fault, there is nothing in those aurora books that talks about that. I've been out of a car for 3 months. Im not sure what to do. Im thinking about just buying another one, but since Im in such finacial trouble because of the winter and having no work it just sucks, man if anyone can help me. The only trouble shooting I haven't done is the one on page 8-714 on the 99 books it might be the same with the others. "security indicator always on or flashing" I need Gm tools to trouble shoot it and now GM is charging 90 bucks per hour to work on the dang car so Im pretty much screwed from this point. I've replaced the starter, ignition switch, theft deterrent relay, battery, pnp, and Checked wires i've done everything. someone give me some info please

before this all happened I also had the problem with the car sometimes starting and sometimes not. Then all of a sudden it would start. :banghead:

I had trouble with my VATS system. I took it to an alarm shop after reading this post and had them bypass the VATS. Car starts every time now.
Rich
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=215519&highlight=vats

do you know how they bypassed the vats, and how much did it cost you to get it done?

do you know how they bypassed the vats, and how much did it cost you to get it done?

They put in a resistor so the VATS thinks that the key is in all the time. It was $50.00. Any car alarm shop should be aware of the procedure because they have to do it to install remote starting systems on these cars. The downside is when the ignition switch turns the car will start. No more VATS protection.
Rich

They put in a resistor so the VATS thinks that the key is in all the time. It was $50.00. Any car alarm shop should be aware of the procedure because they have to do it to install remote starting systems on these cars. The downside is when the ignition switch turns the car will start. No more VATS protection.
Rich
I hope your not talking bout , :nono:that the car will start in any gear?
This is very dangerious should you forget that the car is in D or R
(in a shop) and the mechanic starts the vehicle!

so did anyone have "pass key II system fault" pop up. Cause thats what I got before it stop starting. Basically I need to do this myself cause my car can't move out of my driveway. I would like someone to really elaberate on how to fix this. thanks

I hope your not talking bout , :nono:that the car will start in any gear?
This is very dangerious should you forget that the car is in D or R
(in a shop) and the mechanic starts the vehicle!

No not talking about it starting in gear. If someone was trying to steal the car it would start if they got the ignition to turn. Bypassing the VATS will not let the car start in gear!
Rich

does someone know the cost of just getting it fixed.

Nah... don't pay for it, bypassing vats is easy. that pill in your key is actually a resistor. Use a digital multimeter set to ohms and check the resistance. RadioShack will have the value of resistor that you need (usually under a buck). In the wiring harness leading to the ignition switch, you will find two wires (about 22ga.) covered in an orange plastic sheath. they will either be both white, or one white and the other purple (IIRC). cut those two wires and solder the resistor between the two wires leading to your computer, (away from the ignition switch). Your computer will always think that the proper key is in the ignition, even if you use a key without a chip.

The only downside is as was mentioned before, this procedure leaves your vehicle unprotected, so its best to have an aftermarket alarm or a well hidden cutoff switch. (but at least youre car will start.)



(Usually if vats is giving you trouble, its the chip in your key. try spraying the chip with some tuner cleaner, and scrubing with a toothbrush)

(I've never had to bother with the dealer to have mine fixed, but I would guess if you decided to go that route, some minor rapage would be involved with the cost. :lol:)

well i went to the dealer and got a quote, it turns out that the problem is the part where you put your key into, the lock key cylinder and the reason why you need the dealer to do it is because the key needs to be programed with the car and GM dealers are the only ones with the tool. No big deal its 350 total for everything, I want my vats system but i might be buying a car with the same problem and will go ahead and bypass it to drive it home.

well it turns out it was only a bad ground that lead to replacing wires in the rear. 415 bucks yeah the dealer tried to override the security and knew it wasn't the vats system so I got my car finally after 3 months of just sitting there. im so relieved .

well its been awhile since I've been on here, No one has been able to help me with my car, I've tried everything. I've done almost all the trouble shooting with my car, It just wont start. When it does start it runs fine. But the security light flashes constantly But before it all stopped working I was getting a pass key II system fault, there is nothing in those aurora books that talks about that. I've been out of a car for 3 months. Im not sure what to do. Im thinking about just buying another one, but since Im in such finacial trouble because of the winter and having no work it just sucks, man if anyone can help me. The only trouble shooting I haven't done is the one on page 8-714 on the 99 books it might be the same with the others. "security indicator always on or flashing" I need Gm tools to trouble shoot it and now GM is charging 90 bucks per hour to work on the dang car so Im pretty much screwed from this point. I've replaced the starter, ignition switch, theft deterrent relay, battery, pnp, and Checked wires i've done everything. someone give me some info please

before this all happened I also had the problem with the car sometimes starting and sometimes not. Then all of a sudden it would start. :banghead:

Hmm, thanks for the idea. I'm going to look into the theft detterent relay to see if I can bypass it.