Turbo timer?

I've been thinking about getting a turbo timer for the VR4 that I'm getting within the week. I'm not exactally shure how they work or how hard they are to install. If I drive it real hard then park and take the key out and set the alarm does it keep the car on? How hard is instalation?

Also does anyone know where I could find a comparison of some popular EBCs?

http://johnmonnin.netfirms.com/Boostcontrol.html he has some electric and manual ones. My first mod for my stealth will probably be a boost controller to and a intake. If u find ne good deals hit me back.

Thanks Michael

Well he speaks highly of the Blitz DSBC which is what I was leaning towards since it is popular and on the cheeper side. He says somthing about how EBCs allow one to tune better with a data loger and somthing about knock.. anyone know what thats all about?

Right now what I think I'll get for myself is the Blitz DSBC Spec R and the Dual turbo timer with boost gauge, thing is it seems that the turbo timer/boost gauge only reads out in Hkpa and not PSI.

He got a data logger to go with he EBC so he can tell if the engine is knocking. I knocking has somthing to do with detonation i know it means the engine is being pushed to hard. I think the greddy should have a setting to adjust it but it is from japan so maybe not.

I just don't know how getting a EBC helps with data loging. Knock is when the gas and air mixture ignites before the spark due to compression and can hurt the engine for obvious reasons.

Idk either doesn't he have a email thing on his page? Could email him and ask him.

I just don't know how getting a EBC helps with data loging. Knock is when the gas and air mixture ignites before the spark due to compression and can hurt the engine for obvious reasons.

I think the real issue is that with a MBC you turn a screw tighter to increase your boost, problem is you dont know how much you are increasing your boost. With an EBC you can type a boost value into the device and you are assurred that your boost will be at that value when you test your car. With the MBC it is easy to overboost by turning the screw a little too far and when you test your car and it happens that the wastegates dont open at all, you have the possibilty of smoking your engine.

Now in my opinion, I dont think an EBC is that much "safer" as long as you are careful to test it cautiously after you ever change your boost setting.

Also, I didn't notice you mentioning anything about getting an aftermarket boost gauge. In case you didn't know, you will need one whether you go with an electronic or manual BC because the stock gauge is crap, it is a "estimation" based on your engine rpms and your MAS reading.

Ok, first off:
John monnins page on boost controllers is great.

He isn't saying the boost controller allows him to monitor knock...that is the datalogger. What he is saying is if you have a datalogger, you can tune boost on the fly on a day to day basis, to get the most out of your boost controller. With a mbc, this requires alot of pulling over, screwing/unscrewing, trying again...there is no instant tuning. With teh datalogger on, monitoring knock, he can slowly turn the boost up (with ebc) from inside the car and do it all in a much shorter time...essentially, ebc allows quicker day to day tuning for optimum performance. MBC is set it and forget it. You tune it once to 14.5psi using your boost gauge, and then you don't touch it on a day to day basis.

2) Get a real boost gauge, one that is vacuum operated, in plain view, nothing digital like one on a turbo timer. You wont be able to look at that while driving, and it isn't as reliable.

3) Turbo timers (at least my HKS) was very simple to install if you have a soldering gun (or wire splicers/connectors) and are comfortable splicing about 5 wires...nothing difficult if you have ever done anything remotely similar before. Just make sure you spend the extra 10-15 bucks and buy the wiring harness...it makes it so much easier.

Installation instructions:

http://www.team3s.com/~egross/3S/Mods/TT/TTimer/index.html

I used a different site when I installed mine, but can't remember which site it was. But erik gross' page should be sufficient.

To explain how they work, essentially they monitor engine rpms...not boost. They calculate how long to let your engine idle to allow the turbo sufficient time to cool down. If set on teh 'Auto' feature, when you drive, then park, pull the key out, they will count down until the time it has calculated has passed, and once it does, they will shut hte car off for you.
Now this is nice and all, except that like I said, they monitor rpms, not boost. So if I drive around my block...never boosting...it still wants to let the car idle for a minute. If I drive on the highway in 6th gear, never hitting boost, for 2-3 hours, and get home, it wants to idle for 4 or 5 minutes. So it also usually has manual modes where you can decide how long it should countdown by 30 second increments.
So now, rather than sitting in your car, you can lock the car, take the key, and walk away. Your car will idle for 5 mins or whatever, and shut off. Great saves you time right...typically yes.

My problem: I have a python alarm (installed before I bought the car) When I installed the HKS turbo timer per those instructions. It presented a problem. I can't set my python alarm to active, while the turbo timer and car are still on. If I lock the doors manually, and walk away with the turbo timer doing its job...as soon as the car is done idling and shuts off, it automatically unlocks the doors. So even though I have a turbo timer, I still have to wait by the car until it shuts off. Which is a PITA sometimes, as I spent $85 specifically to save me this time. But anyway, it isn't a bad thing to have, your turbos life should be priority #1.

Also just a quick suggestion. You mentioned getting a Ttimer with boost gauge in it. Mine has a battery gauge which I have found very helpful (as I've had plenty of battery issues in teh past year) and the vr4s don't have a battery gauge stock, as the SLs and bases do (because we have the factory boost gauge there).

Installation of DSBC:
http://www.vr4stealth.com/blitz_dsbc.htm

Hope all that helps.

Hrmm yea the battery gauge would be nice, forgot the VR4 didn't have one. So its best to get the boost gauge even though the EBC has one integrated in it? I just don't know where I would put it since I don't like the looks of the ones mounted on the pillar or the dash. The car I'm getting just has the factory alarm, I'll ask over at 3SI when I get it if it would interfear with the lock up. Whats a good dataloging program that I could use with my lap top thats not terribly expensive?

Definantly get a additional boost gauge, the one on ebc wont cut it. You need to be able to see it and read it with ease. I strongly recommend the A-pillar, I installed one, and I swear it looks stock. Very clean application.
As far as datalogging, it depends on what year you have, the OBDI, 94+95 hybrid, or OBDII, and I honestly forgot which year vr4 you were looking at. Also might depend on if you plan on viewing it on laptop, pda, etc. But if you do minimal searching on 3si, you will find plenty of stuff about what datalogging stuff to purchase and where.

Ok, well data loging is a ways off yet so I'll worry about that when I get there. What boost gauges are popular and should I get any other gauges along with it like EGT or AF? Also, whats the A pillar? Is it the one that goes between the driver window and the windshield?

Yeah, thats the place, so it is just left and a bit up from your steering wheel. I think I had a few threads about boost gauges awhile back, so if you do a search, I'm sure you'll find them, along with which are the cheapest and where to find them.
One suggestion, make sure your boost gauge also shows negative vaccum pressure(mine doesn't and I hate it) because that makes diagnosing boost leaks alot easier.

EGT and AF gauges are a good idea later on down the line, when you move past BPU, but as of now, on mine I just got a single gauge A-pillar pod with teh boost gauge, I figure it looks better than having 1 or 2 extra gapping holes in it waiting for future gauges.

Yea I guess one is good enough to start out with, I guess I could always be cheep and add a second double later lol. Here's what I found looking through all your old threads...
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=257885
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=254748
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=249976

Why are the analog electronic gauges so much more? Are they better? Why is it so crucial to have an analog interface that is easy to see while driving if you know your boost is set where it should be, especially since the turbo timer/boost gauge and EBC I am looking to buy both have boost warnings?

I guess just to always make sure u don't have a boost spike. Or to make sure the things are working properly. btw one thing i love bout the 3kgt/stealth forums ppl actully use the search button.

Yeah, thourun, those are ones. I got either the gauge or the pillar pod from summitracing, and the other from IPO. Don't remember which is which. The biggest reason to have a visible boost gauge is because just because something is set to where it should be doesn't mean it will remain there. Boost is a critical thing...to much and you can kiss a piston goodbye (as you know). Its just always a good idea to have a visible gauge that is run on vacuum pressure(very little can malfunction with that, and it is always in plain view).
I mean, it's kinda like cruise control, to use a horrible example, but...if you had your cruise control set at 60, you'd still want a visible speedometer. Better to be safe than sorry.

yeah that boost gauge is a must if you ask me, and if you have the money thourun, get the A/F gauge also. its a good thing to have

http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/500/100933Jun18047.JPG

thats what mine looks like, and while i have a boost gauge and A/F to the left of me

http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/503/100933Jun18048.JPG

i have the b/c also reaading boost on top of the steering wheel. so i always know whats going on.
pretty good setup

So one question, Are the analog interface electronic boost gauges worth the 3x higher price? I found a good AF one I realy like but the matching boost gauge is $150 lol.

i know nothng of them, whats its purpose besides reading boost?
and as long as the gauge is of size, you dont have to get matching guages, i dont.

Yea well I'm a visual freak for stuff like that lol, I think I'll just get both in white or black with the same lighting.