looking at 4 bolt 350.
mike5721947
02-18-2005, 03:18 PM
well i am wanting to build a 280z with a 350 under the hood and have found this
350 cid 4 bolt main, out of Sierra Grande Chevrolet 3/4T truck, running 1 sticky valve, 154,000 kms, strong motor, 4 bbl manifold for $250.
i am wondring how hard it is to fix that problem and if this is a good motor to start with
also should i rip down the motor to the block and check everything?
or if i am going to do that get a block and slowly get parts?
or i can get a rebuilt motor for under $1000. like this one
CHEVY 350 4bolt main, recently rebuilt, can be seen running, you take out $600.
if anything im wanting to have it carb and with atleast amount of wireling i can so the sap would be as easy as possible.
whats the main differences in the 2 bolt main to the 4 bolt main as in strength and longgevity?
350 cid 4 bolt main, out of Sierra Grande Chevrolet 3/4T truck, running 1 sticky valve, 154,000 kms, strong motor, 4 bbl manifold for $250.
i am wondring how hard it is to fix that problem and if this is a good motor to start with
also should i rip down the motor to the block and check everything?
or if i am going to do that get a block and slowly get parts?
or i can get a rebuilt motor for under $1000. like this one
CHEVY 350 4bolt main, recently rebuilt, can be seen running, you take out $600.
if anything im wanting to have it carb and with atleast amount of wireling i can so the sap would be as easy as possible.
whats the main differences in the 2 bolt main to the 4 bolt main as in strength and longgevity?
curtis73
02-18-2005, 08:27 PM
well i am wanting to build a 280z with a 350 under the hood and have found this 350 cid 4 bolt main, out of Sierra Grande Chevrolet 3/4T truck, running 1 sticky valve, 154,000 kms, strong motor, 4 bbl manifold for $250.
Its a good thing to find a four bolt main small block.
also should i rip down the motor to the block and check everything?
or if i am going to do that get a block and slowly get parts?
or i can get a rebuilt motor for under $1000. like this one
But probably not a four-bolt, right? Plus you have the core charge, and unless you have a four-bolt core, you're not going to get a four bolt in return. You could tear it down, farm out the machine work, and probably have it reassembled for less than $1000. Then you'll have a good-as-new engine ready to go. I wouldn't start with a 154k motor to use as a starting point for a performance build. At this level, you might have good luck for another 60k, but chances are the rings aren't sealing well anymore. In my opinion, if you're going to tear off the heads for a sticky valve anyway, you can at least pull the pan off and do bearings and a few other things.... then, if you're going that far, might as well go ahead and completely disassemble and remachine it. The other bonus is that you'll gain displacement when they overbore it.
CHEVY 350 4bolt main, recently rebuilt, can be seen running, you take out $600. if anything im wanting to have it carb and with atleast amount of wireling i can so the sap would be as easy as possible. whats the main differences in the 2 bolt main to the 4 bolt main as in strength and longgevity?
Up until about 600 hp, and 6500 rpms, a two bolt block is fine and dandy. Four bolts have their place, but a street engine will never stress a two bolt past its limits. You can get one with a carb, but if you plan on doing any performance modifications to it, you'll be re-jetting the carb probably anyway. If that's the case, might as well just get a new better carb. If you get a Qjet carb with the 350 out of the truck, keep it. Its an 800 CFM. They're flow-compensated, so it won't be too much; trust me. Send it to Jet performance and let them rebuild it. It is $200 of the best money you will ever spend. If you don't get a carb with it, its up to you. I would personally buy a Qjet and have jet rebuild it. Best throttle response, excellent mileage, and whopper flow. My next choice would be an Edelbrock. They are easy to tune, and don't need to be removed for re-jetting. Holleys can't be beat for power, but they are a tiny step down in drivability and servicability. You have to spill gasoline everywhere to change jets. They are a certified pain, and in my opinion only worth it if you're looking for that last 4hp to win the race.
The wiring is pretty simple. If you don't get the wiring with the engine, it may be a blessing. You probably don't want to re-use all that old wiring anyway. You'll have one for the alternator, two for the starter, and a couple more for coolant temp sensor, oil pressure sender, etc. Incredibly simple and can be done with parts-store wire.
Its a good thing to find a four bolt main small block.
also should i rip down the motor to the block and check everything?
or if i am going to do that get a block and slowly get parts?
or i can get a rebuilt motor for under $1000. like this one
But probably not a four-bolt, right? Plus you have the core charge, and unless you have a four-bolt core, you're not going to get a four bolt in return. You could tear it down, farm out the machine work, and probably have it reassembled for less than $1000. Then you'll have a good-as-new engine ready to go. I wouldn't start with a 154k motor to use as a starting point for a performance build. At this level, you might have good luck for another 60k, but chances are the rings aren't sealing well anymore. In my opinion, if you're going to tear off the heads for a sticky valve anyway, you can at least pull the pan off and do bearings and a few other things.... then, if you're going that far, might as well go ahead and completely disassemble and remachine it. The other bonus is that you'll gain displacement when they overbore it.
CHEVY 350 4bolt main, recently rebuilt, can be seen running, you take out $600. if anything im wanting to have it carb and with atleast amount of wireling i can so the sap would be as easy as possible. whats the main differences in the 2 bolt main to the 4 bolt main as in strength and longgevity?
Up until about 600 hp, and 6500 rpms, a two bolt block is fine and dandy. Four bolts have their place, but a street engine will never stress a two bolt past its limits. You can get one with a carb, but if you plan on doing any performance modifications to it, you'll be re-jetting the carb probably anyway. If that's the case, might as well just get a new better carb. If you get a Qjet carb with the 350 out of the truck, keep it. Its an 800 CFM. They're flow-compensated, so it won't be too much; trust me. Send it to Jet performance and let them rebuild it. It is $200 of the best money you will ever spend. If you don't get a carb with it, its up to you. I would personally buy a Qjet and have jet rebuild it. Best throttle response, excellent mileage, and whopper flow. My next choice would be an Edelbrock. They are easy to tune, and don't need to be removed for re-jetting. Holleys can't be beat for power, but they are a tiny step down in drivability and servicability. You have to spill gasoline everywhere to change jets. They are a certified pain, and in my opinion only worth it if you're looking for that last 4hp to win the race.
The wiring is pretty simple. If you don't get the wiring with the engine, it may be a blessing. You probably don't want to re-use all that old wiring anyway. You'll have one for the alternator, two for the starter, and a couple more for coolant temp sensor, oil pressure sender, etc. Incredibly simple and can be done with parts-store wire.
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