fuel filterm location
geeseballs
02-18-2005, 03:11 PM
i have a 97 dodge ram can anyone tell me where the fuel filter is located?
scoutinkeith
02-18-2005, 03:49 PM
it is part of the pump, and is located in the tank.
to get to it, you have to either drop the tank, or raise the bed.
to get to it, you have to either drop the tank, or raise the bed.
BleedDodge
02-18-2005, 03:49 PM
In the fuel tank.
geeseballs
02-18-2005, 03:55 PM
wow that stinks i cant wait to change it. thanks for the help.
isoceles
02-18-2005, 08:43 PM
Four things you should know before you take on the challenge of changing the fuel filter. I have a '99 1500, CC & 8' bed, w/4wd.
I also am a firm believer in Haynes Manuals. These four things are NOT in the manual.
1)The filter is an intrigal part of the fuel pump, and is self flushing everytime the pump goes off. You will need the whole pump. You will need to know the tank size, 26, 34, 35 gal., and Masters makes the replacement for it, and will run you from $235.00 to $259.00. You will also need a 6" minimum strap wrench to remove the pump body locking nut from the tank. (take my advice, siphon every drop out of it first, it is heavy!)
2)The mount for the split driveshaft cradle prevents you from dropping the forward tank strap, so be prepared to loosen the mount, or, fight like a dog to get the keyed side off. In their infinite wisdom, the engineers designed the TEE key wider than the receiving slot, so you need to angle the strapso the keyed head will come out @*!*@#!
need I say more? I finally got it out, and immediatly took the grinder to the wings and narrowed them up a bit! (it went back in like a charm)
3)I believe that you will also have the quick connect lines and fittings, you will need to disconnect both lines and the electical connection before you let the tank down. Email me if you need the diagram or the link on HOW TO UNDO & REDO THE CONNECTIONS, unless you are familiar with this type of fitting you may lose a day in befuddlement as I did. The consequence of not removing the connections first is Kinking the pressure (feed), or return line, now add two days and $60 bucks to the project, for the cost of the fuel line and the shipping delay.
4)Finally, the first time is the hardest, and I severly underestimated the difficulty, mainly because I have always worked on my own vehicles, and the manual didn't come through for me this time.
The strap, the connections....but..now I know, I could do it in three hours, couldn't afford the $700.00 the shop wanted.
Anyway feel free to e-m me if you want, as some of these things may not apply to your Ram. Good Luck.... "G"
I also am a firm believer in Haynes Manuals. These four things are NOT in the manual.
1)The filter is an intrigal part of the fuel pump, and is self flushing everytime the pump goes off. You will need the whole pump. You will need to know the tank size, 26, 34, 35 gal., and Masters makes the replacement for it, and will run you from $235.00 to $259.00. You will also need a 6" minimum strap wrench to remove the pump body locking nut from the tank. (take my advice, siphon every drop out of it first, it is heavy!)
2)The mount for the split driveshaft cradle prevents you from dropping the forward tank strap, so be prepared to loosen the mount, or, fight like a dog to get the keyed side off. In their infinite wisdom, the engineers designed the TEE key wider than the receiving slot, so you need to angle the strapso the keyed head will come out @*!*@#!
need I say more? I finally got it out, and immediatly took the grinder to the wings and narrowed them up a bit! (it went back in like a charm)
3)I believe that you will also have the quick connect lines and fittings, you will need to disconnect both lines and the electical connection before you let the tank down. Email me if you need the diagram or the link on HOW TO UNDO & REDO THE CONNECTIONS, unless you are familiar with this type of fitting you may lose a day in befuddlement as I did. The consequence of not removing the connections first is Kinking the pressure (feed), or return line, now add two days and $60 bucks to the project, for the cost of the fuel line and the shipping delay.
4)Finally, the first time is the hardest, and I severly underestimated the difficulty, mainly because I have always worked on my own vehicles, and the manual didn't come through for me this time.
The strap, the connections....but..now I know, I could do it in three hours, couldn't afford the $700.00 the shop wanted.
Anyway feel free to e-m me if you want, as some of these things may not apply to your Ram. Good Luck.... "G"
geeseballs
02-25-2005, 08:34 PM
thanks for the detailed help..i needed it
1thunder
02-27-2005, 12:53 PM
your filter is actually a filter regulator and is at the very top of the fuel pump assy or mounted to the pump assy you just have to lower tank some just support it then you can pry it out of the pump assy and lift it high enough to access the line. Now once line is disconected do not let it go tie a wire to it cause if it goes down then your taking the tank out and pump off now these filters are supossed to be lifetime filters no replacement required unless you contaminate your fuel system with dirty gunk or whatever is not supposed to be in there and price is approx 170.00 can
geeseballs
02-27-2005, 11:03 PM
do you know if a clogged filter would cause very bad shaking and cylinder misfire. because thats what im trying to do. i have changed spark plugs and wires and distributer cap and roter so the next thing i thought of was the fuel filter...thanks for the help
1thunder
02-28-2005, 06:14 AM
don't waste your time at the filter go to your injectors and remove all of them soak them in combustion chamber conditioner you can purchase from dealer $6.00-$7.00 pn vu001788 then blow out with compressed air particularily at intlet hole then blow out fuel rail good then reasemble then
problem solved. Make sure you use white lithium grease on "o" rings when reasembling injectors and check for damaged "o" rings
problem solved. Make sure you use white lithium grease on "o" rings when reasembling injectors and check for damaged "o" rings
geeseballs
02-28-2005, 11:04 PM
that makes alot more sense and a heck of alot cheaper. im gonna give that a go thanks for your help ill let you know how i make out.
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