transfer case 1996 Explorer Sport
jrm0915
02-18-2005, 08:00 AM
The vacuum hose ( I assume that's what it is) from the transfer case to wherever it connects has come off. Where does the other end of the hose connect? Also, when operating at normal temp, the engine will turn over, but not start. The temp has to drop off, and not be driven for a while for a normal start. What;s up, anyone have any ideas? Thanks
jrm
jrm
dxrflyboy
02-20-2005, 09:35 AM
The transfer case functions electrically, not by vacuum. The hose you describe is probably a vent hose. It should have an upside down "J" shape to prevent water intrusion.
No-starts are difficult to diagnose without duplicating the problem first. "Hot" failures of the crank sensor or fuel pump relay come to mind, but you're just throwing parts at it until you duplicate the problem and diagnose it at that point.
No-starts are difficult to diagnose without duplicating the problem first. "Hot" failures of the crank sensor or fuel pump relay come to mind, but you're just throwing parts at it until you duplicate the problem and diagnose it at that point.
jrm0915
02-23-2005, 05:55 PM
I was able to get the diagnostic codes for the problem by using the ODBII reader, and they read:
1. EGR insufficient flow detected.
2. MAF sensor circuit low input
3. Catalyst system efficiency below threshold.
My gut tells me its the MAF, as you suggested.
Any idea exactly what it means? Do I need to replace the MAF sensor and EGR valve? The rough hot start occurs after about +10 miles drive, sits in a "cooling down" state, but is still warm. IS the catylitic converter going out? Thanks, about the transfer case...you are correct about a breather tube. Thanks again for your thoughts on these coded read-outs. (MAF: $99.00, EGR valve: $45.00) jrm
The transfer case functions electrically, not by vacuum. The hose you describe is probably a vent hose. It should have an upside down "J" shape to prevent water intrusion.
No-starts are difficult to diagnose without duplicating the problem first. "Hot" failures of the crank sensor or fuel pump relay come to mind, but you're just throwing parts at it until you duplicate the problem and diagnose it at that point.
1. EGR insufficient flow detected.
2. MAF sensor circuit low input
3. Catalyst system efficiency below threshold.
My gut tells me its the MAF, as you suggested.
Any idea exactly what it means? Do I need to replace the MAF sensor and EGR valve? The rough hot start occurs after about +10 miles drive, sits in a "cooling down" state, but is still warm. IS the catylitic converter going out? Thanks, about the transfer case...you are correct about a breather tube. Thanks again for your thoughts on these coded read-outs. (MAF: $99.00, EGR valve: $45.00) jrm
The transfer case functions electrically, not by vacuum. The hose you describe is probably a vent hose. It should have an upside down "J" shape to prevent water intrusion.
No-starts are difficult to diagnose without duplicating the problem first. "Hot" failures of the crank sensor or fuel pump relay come to mind, but you're just throwing parts at it until you duplicate the problem and diagnose it at that point.
jrm0915
02-24-2005, 12:46 PM
So, I actually was able to clean the electrodes on the MAF sensor, and the only code that displays now is the one about the EGR valve, but the hot start is still very sluggish. Would you say that without checking the resistance in the MAF sensor or wires, that the probable cause is the EGR valve?
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