No Highbeams?

HI, I just bought a 1989 Lincoln Towncar signature series. I tried to get it inspected but it failed because of the high beams. When you pull the lever toward you they come on but wont stay on. The lever wont push forward. My husband bought a switch for the lever but no change. He noticed the rearview mirror has some wires hanging but he cant plug them in because they have two connectors and the mirror only has one recepticle. ( I think I am describing that right)
HELP, I need my car but I can't drive it without an inspection sticker. I live in the country so there is no public transportation and no place close to walk. :eek7:

Welcome to AF Town Cars !!

Sounds like your hubby is on the right track. The multi-function switch is the correct terminology. It operates several devices therefor it's name.

I'm not positive the highbeam switch is actually part of the multifunction switch in your 89, although I know for sure my 96 is.

In earlier years when the idea of the signal arm performing several more functions, the first highbeam function was handled via a steel pushrod that was operated by (as you said) pulling the signal lever toward the driver. The signal arm mounted on a pivot and pushed down on the pushrod, the long pushrod was mounted alongside the steering column, and the actual switch was mounted way down the steering column, almost under the dash.

I had a problem like yours once, with a setup like I've just described. I found that the pushrod wasn't traveling far enough into the switch to toggle it on. It did (as you said) flash the brights as it attempted to go the full way.

I found that my problem was related to two or three problems. When I set the steeering wheel "tilt" to either extreme, the brights switch would lock on, then when I centered the tilt, or somewhere thereabout the brights wouldn't activate, or when activated wouldn't deactivate.

1) My signal arm was loose on its mountings. Tightening it became a real chore due to related parts it mounts to.
2) My highbeam switch (way down the steering column) was cocked a bit sideways off it's mounting bracket.
3) My steering column tilt mechanism was a bit sloppy (loose). I never did fix that problem.

To get the brights working consistantly on and off, I first straightened out the bracket that held the switch. That helped considerably, but still had some problems in different tilt positions. After some thought processes I decided to add a shim to the bottom end of the long pushrod to make it just a bit longer, that's what fixed the problem.

I used the plastic foot off an old file folder wire rack I had lying around the garage for the shim, just put the foot on the end of the long pushrod, extending it about 2 or 3mm.

Sorry for the long winded story :)

Welcome to AF Town Cars !!

Sounds like your hubby is on the right track. The multi-function switch is the correct terminology. It operates several devices therefor it's name.

I'm not positive the highbeam switch is actually part of the multifunction switch in your 89, although I know for sure my 96 is.

In earlier years when the idea of the signal arm performing several more functions, the first highbeam function was handled via a steel pushrod that was operated by (as you said) pulling the signal lever toward the driver. The signal arm mounted on a pivot and pushed down on the pushrod, the long pushrod was mounted alongside the steering column, and the actual switch was mounted way down the steering column, almost under the dash.

I had a problem like yours once, with a setup like I've just described. I found that the pushrod wasn't traveling far enough into the switch to toggle it on. It did (as you said) flash the brights as it attempted to go the full way.

I found that my problem was related to two or three problems. When I set the steeering wheel "tilt" to either extreme, the brights switch would lock on, then when I centered the tilt, or somewhere thereabout the brights wouldn't activate, or when activated wouldn't deactivate.

1) My signal arm was loose on its mountings. Tightening it became a real chore due to related parts it mounts to.
2) My highbeam switch (way down the steering column) was cocked a bit sideways off it's mounting bracket.
3) My steering column tilt mechanism was a bit sloppy (loose). I never did fix that problem.

To get the brights working consistantly on and off, I first straightened out the bracket that held the switch. That helped considerably, but still had some problems in different tilt positions. After some thought processes I decided to add a shim to the bottom end of the long pushrod to make it just a bit longer, that's what fixed the problem.

I used the plastic foot off an old file folder wire rack I had lying around the garage for the shim, just put the foot on the end of the long pushrod, extending it about 2 or 3mm.

Sorry for the long winded story :)

Umm, are you saying that the wires on the mirror have nothing to do with it and the brights should work without them being plugged in? That he should continue working on the switch?

Umm, are you saying that the wires on the mirror have nothing to do with it and the brights should work without them being plugged in? That he should continue working on the switch?

I can't see how a mirror wire would have anything to do with the brights not locking on.

As for that mirror, you said "rearview...", I'm assuming that means rearview, not sideview. There may be an extra connector tucked up in the headlilner as part of the wireing harness where an optional accessory wasn't factory installed. For example, my 1996 had an optional telephone in the armrest, the connector for the microphone is sitting above the rearview mirror, connected to nothing.

Dimming mirror, Map lights, Compass Module, and possibly some other things (depending on the year) I can't remember at the moment all have wires above the rearview mirror, none of those have anything to do with highbeams controls circuits.

There's also the remote posibility that the rearview mirror currently installed wasn't the one the factory installed, and some option is missing.

Damn I wish I had the 89 manual...
:banghead: Did you try different column tilt positions to see if there was any difference ???

I just had a thought on my way to work this morning..

I'm driving my little diehard Camry this morning, it's raining like crazy and I'm cruisin along... then I start thinking about this highbeam issue.

On the Camry I pull the signal are toward me to "flash" the brights, but that direction wont lock them ON no matter how far I pull the arm toward me.

To lock the brights ON, I have to push the signal are toward the dashboard.

?? Could that be the case with your 1989 TC ??

I can't see how a mirror wire would have anything to do with the brights not locking on.

As for that mirror, you said "rearview...", I'm assuming that means rearview, not sideview. There may be an extra connector tucked up in the headlilner as part of the wireing harness where an optional accessory wasn't factory installed. For example, my 1996 had an optional telephone in the armrest, the connector for the microphone is sitting above the rearview mirror, connected to nothing.

Dimming mirror, Map lights, Compass Module, and possibly some other things (depending on the year) I can't remember at the moment all have wires above the rearview mirror, none of those have anything to do with highbeams controls circuits.

There's also the remote posibility that the rearview mirror currently installed wasn't the one the factory installed, and some option is missing.

Damn I wish I had the 89 manual...
:banghead: Did you try different column tilt positions to see if there was any difference ???

Yes, rear view mirror not side view.I think it has a sensor to control the high beams. I really am not clear on what this is. It does have a switch like thing on it but like I said I am unclear what it does. I suspect the mirror was replaced for some reason.

I just had a thought on my way to work this morning..

I'm driving my little diehard Camry this morning, it's raining like crazy and I'm cruisin along... then I start thinking about this highbeam issue.

On the Camry I pull the signal are toward me to "flash" the brights, but that direction wont lock them ON no matter how far I pull the arm toward me.

To lock the brights ON, I have to push the signal are toward the dashboard.

?? Could that be the case with your 1989 TC ??

Yes that is the case. I only referred to the fact that when I pull the lever toward me the brights do work so I know it is not the bulbs.

Turn off the "Auto" on the outer ring by the headlight switch.

Don't ask me how I learned the hard way

I have an '88 and I shut off every single g'damn auto contraption there is......LOL

The problem with your 89 could be a couple things. Yes, you do need to have the sensor plugged in for your high beam auto dimmer to work properly, but I think if you turn the dimmer setting off of auto the brights will work. If you would like your auto brights to work again, you will need to replace the auto dimmer relay. It's located under the dash, right next to the headlight pull knob switch. As to your switch troubles, your 89's headlights don't have the lever that locks forward, the lever pulls back and then activates a relay which is tied in to the sensor on your rearview, which works in junction with the dimmer controll, to turn your high beams on and off. You should be able to pull the turnsignal back toward you to get the brights to work, if they don't stay on, then you should try to connect one of the harnesses to the sensor. My guess is that your vehicle was equipped with another option that automatically adjusts your rearview when someone is following you at night. The other harness may have been for that. There was another sensor on the rearview that picked up light from the back of the car and tilted the mirror when someone's headlights were shining in it. I have that option on my 88 Town Car.