altenator output, 4cl VS. V6

year 92'
will the altenator from a V6 put out more amps then one on a 4cl, and by how much?

year 92'
will the altenator from a V6 put out more amps then one on a 4cl, and by how much?

Did you check the voltage it's putting out? If you are only getting 70 amps out of it it's probably screwed and needs replacing. The V6 should be about the same amperage but wont fit on yout motor too easily. Test the voltage coming out of the alt if it's below 13.5 volts then it needs replacing!!!!

im sorry that doesnt have anything to do with my question, nor does it answer it.... voltage an amperage are two different things. please only reply to this post if you can honestly tell me V6 = x amps, 4cl = x amps

im sorry that doesnt have anything to do with my question, nor does it answer it.... voltage an amperage are two different things. please only reply to this post if you can honestly tell me V6 = x amps, 4cl = x amps
it does if the alt is only putting out 8v! then it's not fully chargin the battery and that makes the lights dim!

it does if the alt is only putting out 8v! then it's not fully chargin the battery and that makes the lights dim!

im not having altenator problems...... just getting ready to upgrade past my stock specs and wondering if i can get away with somthing cheaper than a brand new one.

STOP POSTING, u obviously dont know. its ok.. just stop dumpin on my post. u already killed the last one. go look up Ohm's law before u post anymore. itll explain the difference between voltage an amperage for you.

im not having altenator problems...... just getting ready to upgrade past my stock specs and wondering if i can get away with somthing cheaper than a brand new one.

STOP POSTING, u obviously dont know. its ok.. just stop dumpin on my post. u already killed the last one. go look up Ohm's law before u post anymore. itll explain the difference between voltage an amperage for you.

I know the difference! I have an English Physics College Degree. But if the voltage it's chucking out is too low you wont be getting the correect amperage therefore meaning that you will have dimming lights!

I know the difference! I have an English Physics College Degree. But if the voltage it's chucking out is too low you wont be getting the correect amperage therefore meaning that you will have dimming lights!
good job, now can u tell me if getting one from a V6 will be enough fix my problem? remeber, nothing dimmed till i put my system in. so ive gotta go up and beyond my stock.. follow me?

lets just say this.... NO it will not help you out!

Wouldn't a two battery system be easier?!?

still need a higher output alt tho, the alt runs the car, not the bat.
i imagine itll shorten the life of the bat massivly. its meant to be charged once everytime it starts. not continuosly while ur driving right??

Wrong. When the car is on you can unhook the alt and it will run off the battery, for a short while. By having two batteries the alt only has to charge them. One bat will run the car, the other will run the system. This takes alot of stress of the alt. Why do you think competition audio cars having multiple batteries.

yes and they also have HO alt's...... i realy dont think the car should be running of the bat. cuz thats what makes the batt cells die right? recharging them... if it was fully charged all time an never lost any juice it would last way longer than it would norm operation in a car... i think a second batt would be overkill anyways. it doesnt dim that bad when the base hits. i think maybe another 20-30 amps would do it. but back to the original point. im not 100% but this is my theory on the ciruit. say the alt cranks out 80amps, the bat another 80 (guessin on numbers here) so ur stock ride, with all the electronics on pulls like 70. but wit a system in, (thats why u can trouble shoot ur alt by removing the pos from the bat, runs = alt is fine, stalls = alts bad) an the bass hits, the amplifire pulls another 80amps. so total car load now is increased 160amps. which is a demand on the alt an the bat at the same time. the same demand on the bat as starting it every second or two (cuz the base) i think the only time ur system will pull off the bat is when it pulls more than the alt can push. the alt is a generator, so it just kinda makes sense that all ur electronics should be drivin off that. not the bat, which is designed to hold electricity while the alt isnt producing electricity... i think the order of upgrade should be wires to 1/0awg, gel/glasspack batt, HO alt, 2nd bat. atleast thats my theory... make sense?

One bat will run the car, the other will run the system. This takes alot of stress of the alt.
so what thats like 20 minutes or so?? what happens on a couple hour road trip when u totaly kill both ur batteries.... u still need more juice to charge them.

so what thats like 20 minutes or so?? what happens on a couple hour road trip when u totaly kill both ur batteries.... u still need more juice to charge them.

Your amp runs off the battery not the alt. It's wired to the battery. A car battery can be discharged and recharged many times as this is what happens when you start the car anyhow especially when it's cold! The alternator can charge a dead battery in about 20 mins as long as noting else is on! The tow battery system would mean that when the alt has charged the main batt it will switch to the auxillary and top that up. Your alt is running 10 amps below what it should anyhow! The battery disconection isn't a very good way to test an alt especially in your situation! Also an optima battery will last ages and can take the discharge recharge cycle in it's stride. They aren't normal dry-cell batteries like duracell. It's a completely different thing! You would be fine on a stock alternator that is putting out over 13.5 volts. The amps wont show correctly. If you test the alt for volts and it's below 13 then it's on it's way out!

the alt is connected to the bat, the amp is connected to the bat too, along with all the cars electronics. its all on the same circuit. u cant just run one thing off of a single bat, they're all connected, therefore all sharing the same amperage. the total draw is fine when my system isnt on. as soon as i turn it on, it creates a draw that is way higher than what Both my alt & batt can handle. (dimming lights) ie; my system would be alot louder if it could pull more amps, but it stops at a certain point cuz theres simply none left. a second batt might help, but only for short periods of time. adding another bat wouldnt let the sound system run off one, its simply adding more available storage for current... which would most indefinatly need to be recharged (on a long road trip my total draw could potientaly kill both batts if i dont have a HO alt that can acualy recharge them ontop of running my car/system). and yes batts are designed to charge once per start up, but im sayin the damand my system is putting on the bat is the same as sitting there an startin the car every second or two, without shutting it off. only a bigger draw, like jump starting another car every second or two... you guys should check out caraudio.com, look under the forums an do a search for HO altenators. ull see lots of people that know alot more about this than i do that can explain it a whole lot better... my theory is right, ask any electricion, he'll tell u the same. i seriously just wanted a simple question answered, i got it, goodbye

the alt is connected to the bat, the amp is connected to the bat too, along with all the cars electronics. its all on the same circuit. u cant just run one thing off of a single bat, they're all connected, therefore all sharing the same amperage. the total draw is fine when my system isnt on. as soon as i turn it on, it creates a draw that is way higher than what Both my alt & batt can handle. (dimming lights) ie; my system would be alot louder if it could pull more amps, but it stops at a certain point cuz theres simply none left. a second batt might help, but only for short periods of time. adding another bat wouldnt let the sound system run off one, its simply adding more available storage for current... which would most indefinatly need to be recharged (on a long road trip my total draw could potientaly kill both batts if i dont have a HO alt that can acualy recharge them ontop of running my car/system). and yes batts are designed to charge once per start up, but im sayin the damand my system is putting on the bat is the same as sitting there an startin the car every second or two, without shutting it off. only a bigger draw, like jump starting another car every second or two... you guys should check out caraudio.com, look under the forums an do a search for HO altenators. ull see lots of people that know alot more about this than i do that can explain it a whole lot better... my theory is right, ask any electricion, he'll tell u the same. i seriously just wanted a simple question answered, i got it, goodbye

Easy sunshine!

The battery is to start the car and to act as a buffer for the alternator to prevent a power spike to the electrical system. As far as unhooking a battery cable while the engine is running is HIGHLY NOT RECOMMENDED!
The new CS style alternators can not handle the power laod and WILL damage the alternator. Last but not least a V-6 alternator does not have the same mounting configuration as a 4 cylinder alternator hence it won't fit!!!! If you need a high output alternator for extra power equipment then you will have to pay up the is no cheap way around it. YOU WANNA PLAY YOU GOTTA PAY!!!!