d16 oil pan gasket

It seems like my oil pan gasket is springing a leak. Is this a big job of replacing it? Some of the bolts look like they're a pain to get to. I'll have to remove the downpipe on my header (2 piece DC) but please tell me I won't have to unbolt the tranny...

Mines is going to have to have the same thing done. Let me know how it goes

I just replaced mine, you will have to remove the lower piece of the header and the flywheel dust cover and it should come right off, you will need a long extension tho. Good luck

oh yea, dont forget to but some rtv at all the corners. I didnt do that and the leak was worse than the old gasket so I had to pull the pan again.

oh yea, dont forget to but some rtv at all the corners. I didnt do that and the leak was worse than the old gasket so I had to pull the pan again.

Thanks for the info.

if it leaks at all corners then you installed it wrong. i put mine on with no sealant and its not leaking

if it leaks at all corners then you installed it wrong. i put mine on with no sealant and its not leaking

It's stock. I'll switch it out next oil change...

i just ordered a new pan for mine and i hope it gets here this week...someone let me kno how long its gonna take to do and what all i have to do cuz ill have to come home from college to do it but im happy cuz i havent worked on her for a while

jeez must be a trend! I have to replace the oil pan on the b16 whenever I get around to putting it in my crx. Shouldnt be that hard at all to do it. Im just waiting on my rad, pan, clutch, and flywheel to come and the motor goes in.

like they said, take the downpipe off, take the dust cover off, and unbolt the oil pan.

and definitely get a tube of hondabond, or comparible RTV sealant. you will need to put it on both ends of oilpan, right where it curves down for the two endcaps that the crank sit in. that area is about 3 or 4 inches of space with no bolts to hold a good seal, so if you dont put the sealant there, eventually you will get a leak. as an extra precaution, i put sealant on each of the small bumps that flank every bolt hole. it helps hold the gasket in place while you put the pan back on, and it also gives a better seal.

like they said, take the downpipe off, take the dust cover off, and unbolt the oil pan.

and definitely get a tube of hondabond, or comparible RTV sealant. you will need to put it on both ends of oilpan, right where it curves down for the two endcaps that the crank sit in. that area is about 3 or 4 inches of space with no bolts to hold a good seal, so if you dont put the sealant there, eventually you will get a leak. as an extra precaution, i put sealant on each of the small bumps that flank every bolt hole. it helps hold the gasket in place while you put the pan back on, and it also gives a better seal.

Okay, I've got a print out of the diagram from the manual...
http://www.binghamtonlife.com/manual/2gsm/images/91-7-4.jpg

It doesn't look too difficult... some of the bolts are a pain in the ass to get to, but I was under my car up on a scissor jack and low jack in the grass inspecting it. When I swap out the gasket, I'll be in a garage with the car sitting much higher up in the air... LOL.
So basically I put the RTV sealant on the gasket, align the gasket to the pan and reinstall. I guess I can clean the pan out while I'm at it. Sorry if I sound stupid... first pan gasket replacement...

yes, downpipe comes off, takes a few minutes to change it, and do NOT use any gasket sealer on the gasket, it is ment for cork/paper only, if u use it with rubber it will leak even worse

Ok, well for future reference dont ever get under a car with a sissor jack on grass. Its bad enough getting under a car sissor jacked up on concrete. Unless you have a death wish, use jack stands next time. Not tryin to be an asshole just tryin to save some pain or lives. But anyways, good luck gettin that done.

no liquid gasket eh? (http://www.binghamtonlife.com/manual/2gsm/images/91-7-4.jpg)

like i said before, follow my instructions and you wont go wrong. and for 1phatCX, add one step to it, insert foot in mouth and be quiet

for 4 dr sedans arent you suposed to remove some kind of cross member to remove that oil pan?

Ok, well for future reference dont ever get under a car with a sissor jack on grass. Its bad enough getting under a car sissor jacked up on concrete. Unless you have a death wish, use jack stands next time. Not tryin to be an asshole just tryin to save some pain or lives. But anyways, good luck gettin that done.

It's cool, I used a thick piece of wood to put the scissor jack on WITH JACK STANDS. No deathwish here...

Come on people, the manual says use "liquid gasket" and even points to where exactly. Click the link. Why would the manual say to use it if it would fuck it up more?

I guess I should expect this kind of bs from a 100k mile engine, but damn it, I'm never going to get to the bodywork. I removed my sidemarkers so now I have two big square holes in my fenders (one of which is dented)... I am the duct tape king!

yes i read the manual too and used liquid gasket the first time, which leaked like an SOB, put it on dry the 2nd time and its fine, doesnt leak at all
ur not supposed to use liquid gasket (or gasket sealer) on rubber, only cork and paper, and no this isnt coming from me, this is coming from technicians that i have known for awhile who know what there talking about. i have learned from a personal experiance and should have listened to them the first time but no, i went with the manual and it leaked

yes i read the manual too and used liquid gasket the first time, which leaked like an SOB, put it on dry the 2nd time and its fine, doesnt leak at all
ur not supposed to use liquid gasket (or gasket sealer) on rubber, only cork and paper, and no this isnt coming from me, this is coming from technicians that i have known for awhile who know what there talking about. i have learned from a personal experiance and should have listened to them the first time but no, i went with the manual and it leaked

Okay. I'm probably going to get the Beck/Arnley gasket ($3 more than other one offered). I am assuming it's rubber (or something other than paper) for $18. I'll clean it up good and bolt it back up dry and carefully.

Update: I finally got around to messing with my ride. I removed the exhaust manifold (2 piece DC which still wouldn't clear) and inspected the underside of my engine which I've cleaned a few hundred miles ago. After this inspection I've decided that it is not leaking enough or worth the headache to remove the old pan so I'm going to return the new gasket. But I'm so f*cking pissed cuz while retorquing the bolts on the header to the head I snapped a stud clear off. I'll be calling a shop to get them to fix it. How much should it cost to have them replace the stud? I don't want to get taken for a ride on this. Thanks.