changing oils

i just bought 95 cherokee sport 4.0 HO. automatic. came with no owners manual need to know what kind of engine oil,tranny,transfer,front&rear gear oil it takes.

i just bought 95 cherokee sport 4.0 HO. automatic. came with no owners manual need to know what kind of engine oil,tranny,transfer,front&rear gear oil it takes.

First of all if you are going to do any maintenance or repairs, get a manual. For general stuff, the Haynes or chilton will work quite well for the $20 they cost.

The recommended oils for the engine are

above 0F 10w30
below 60F 5w30 can be used.

Auto transmission calls for the dextron in the manual but most chrysler techs will suggest you use the chrysler ATF+4. The Mobil 1 synthetic ATF is a very good product for the AW4 transmission also.

The transfer case uses ATF and you should use a synthetic in it even though the regular ATF will work.

I will suggest that you drop the pan in the automatic and change the oil and filter annually and at the same time, change the transfer case oil.

The automatic will take about 4-5 qts but put in three and check it before you top it up. Check the AW4 transmission in park.

Sometimes the dipstick tube is VERY difficult to remove inorder to get the pan off the transmission so some prefere to pay a shop about $150 to do it for them. The rest of the fluid changes are do-able for some one who is familiar with tools and service manuals.

The 231 transfer case holds 2.2 pints

Where you have just purchased the Jeep, I would suggest a drain and inspection of the front and rear diffs. For the standard diff, use a 80w90 regular oil or a 75w90 synthetic.

If you have a trailer package, use 75w140 synthetic only. Mobil 1 or amsoil are good synthetic oils

If you have a diff lock, put 4oz of the chrylser limited slip additive in the rear diff only.

Hope this is what you were looking for and will help you.

JD

i just bought 95 cherokee sport 4.0 HO. automatic. came with no owners manual need to know what kind of engine oil,tranny,transfer,front&rear gear oil it takes.


How can you tell if your Rear has Diff lock?

Put your jeep in 2wd, tranny in neutral. Jack up the rear so both wheels are off the ground. Turn one of the wheels and observe the rotation of the opposite one. if they both turn in the same direction, you have a "posi trac". If in opposite directions, it's a regular diff.

JD

yes it is and thanks alot

WOW! JD good list!

On the trailer package, are you referring to the D44 rear?

JD suggests using
above 0F 10w30
below 60F 5w30 can be used

I live in Norway and the temperatur in the southern parts can drop down to -13F (in the northern parts of Norway it can go -22F) in the winter.

Based on the information I have read (specifically http://www.nightrider.com/biketech/oilinfo1.htm), it seems to me that the higher base, the better in the winter. I take that from the Pour point in the chart below (see URL above for description).

But other places in this forum, I see references to a low base (5w and even 0w) for cold weather. I assume that the lower the base, the the thicker it is? But these oils have a higher Pour point.

Obviously, I'm missing something :-)

Any comments/suggestions would be appreciated.




The Data listed alphabetically by oil weight

Viscosity / Brand VI Flash Pour %ash %zinc
20W-50
AMSOIL 136 482 -38 .5
Castrol GTX 122 440 15 .85 .12
Exxon High Performance 119 419 13 .70 .11
Havoline Formula 3 125 465 30 1.0
Kendall GT-1 129 390 25 1.0 .16
Pennzoil GT Perf. 120 460 10 .9
Quaker State Dlx. 155 430 25 .9
Shell Truck Guard 130 450 15 1.0 .15
Spectro Golden 4 174 440 35 .15
Spectro Golden M.G. 174 440 35 .13
Unocal 121 432 11 .74 .12
Valvoline All Climate 125 430 10 1.0 .11
Valvoline Turbo 140 440 10 .99 .13
Valvoline Race 140 425 10 1.2 .20
20W-40
Castrol Multi-Grade 110 440 15 .85 .12
Quaker State 121 415 15 .9
15W-50
Chevron 204? 415 18 .96 .11
Mobil 1 170 470 55
Mystic JT8 144 420 20 1.7 .15
5W-50
Castrol Syntec 180 437 45 1.2 .10
15W-40
AMSOIL 135 460 38 .5
Castrol 134 415 15 1.3 .14
Chevron Delo 400 136 421 27 1.0
Exxon XD3 --- 417 11 .9 .14
Exxon XD3 Extra 135 399 11 .95 .13
Kendall GT-1 135 410 25 1.0 .16
Mystic JT8 142 440 20 1.7 .15
Shell Rotella w/XLA 146 410 25 1.0 .13
Valvoline All Fleet 140 410 1.0 .15
Valvoline Turbo 140 420 10 .99 .13
10W-30
AMSOIL 142 480 70 .5
Castrol GTX 140 415 33 .85 .12
Chevron Supreme 150 401 26 .96 .11
Exxon Superflo Hi Perf 135 392 22 .70 .11
Exxon Superflo Supreme 133 400 31 .85 .13
Havoline Formula 3 139 430 30 1.0
Kendall GT-1 139 390 25 1.0 .16
Mobil 1 160 450 65
Pennzoil PLZ Turbo 140 410 27 1.0
Quaker State 156 410 30 .9
Shell Fire and Ice 155 410 35 .9 .12
Shell Super 2000 155 410 35 1.0 .13
Shell Truck Guard 155 405 35 1.0 .15
Spectro Golden M.G. 175 405 40
Unocal Super 153 428 33 .92 .12
Valvoline All Climate 130 410 26 1.0 .11
Valvoline Turbo 135 410 26 .99 .13
Valvoline Race 130 410 26 1.2 .20
5W-30
AMSOIL 168 480 76 .5
Castrol GTX 156 400 35 .80 .12
Chevron Supreme 202? 354 46 .96 .11
Exxon Superflow HP 148 392 22 .70 .11
Havoline Formula 3 158 420 40 1.0
Mobil 1 165 445 65
Mystic JT8 161 390 25 .95 .1
Quaker State 165 405 35 .9
Shell Fire and Ice 167 405 35 .9 .12
Unocal 151 414 33 .81 .12
Valvoline All Climate 135 405 40 1.0 .11
Valvoline Turbo 158 405 40 .99 .13

WOW! JD good list!

On the trailer package, are you referring to the D44 rear?

Hey IdahoJeeper..... Sorry I missed your question before this.....

Ya the trailer package will likely have the D44 and the owners manual says to use the 75w140 syn if you do any towing with it otherwise the 75w90 syn is what is ok.

the 75w140 is not a commonly stocked oil around here but it might be easier to find in other areas.

I would use a synthetic oil in any axle or transfer case application as it reduces heat and stands up to the loads better.

JD

JD suggests using
above 0F 10w30
below 60F 5w30 can be used

I live in Norway and the temperatur in the southern parts can drop down to -13F (in the northern parts of Norway it can go -22F) in the winter.

Based on the information I have read (specifically http://www.nightrider.com/biketech/oilinfo1.htm), it seems to me that the higher base, the better in the winter. I take that from the Pour point in the chart below (see URL above for description).

But other places in this forum, I see references to a low base (5w and even 0w) for cold weather. I assume that the lower the base, the the thicker it is? But these oils have a higher Pour point.

Obviously, I'm missing something :-)

Any comments/suggestions would be appreciated.




The Data listed alphabetically by oil weight

Viscosity / Brand VI Flash Pour %ash %zinc
10W-30
AMSOIL 142 480 70 .5
Castrol GTX 140 415 33 .85 .12
Chevron Supreme 150 401 26 .96 .11
Exxon Superflo Hi Perf 135 392 22 .70 .11
Exxon Superflo Supreme 133 400 31 .85 .13
Havoline Formula 3 139 430 30 1.0
Kendall GT-1 139 390 25 1.0 .16
Mobil 1 160 450 65
Pennzoil PLZ Turbo 140 410 27 1.0
Quaker State 156 410 30 .9
Shell Fire and Ice 155 410 35 .9 .12
Shell Super 2000 155 410 35 1.0 .13
Shell Truck Guard 155 405 35 1.0 .15
Spectro Golden M.G. 175 405 40
Unocal Super 153 428 33 .92 .12
Valvoline All Climate 130 410 26 1.0 .11
Valvoline Turbo 135 410 26 .99 .13
Valvoline Race 130 410 26 1.2 .20

5W-30
AMSOIL 168 480 76 .5
Castrol GTX 156 400 35 .80 .12
Chevron Supreme 202? 354 46 .96 .11
Exxon Superflow HP 148 392 22 .70 .11
Havoline Formula 3 158 420 40 1.0
Mobil 1 165 445 65
Mystic JT8 161 390 25 .95 .1
Quaker State 165 405 35 .9
Shell Fire and Ice 167 405 35 .9 .12
Unocal 151 414 33 .81 .12
Valvoline All Climate 135 405 40 1.0 .11
Valvoline Turbo 158 405 40 .99 .13

High again JViking. It's good to see your interest in maintaining your vehicles...

The gear and engine oil viscosity comparison chart on the linked page shows that the lower the viscosity number, the thinner the oil is. While that chart only shows the 100C viscosity ranges, the 40C ranges are similar in spread though not in thickness.

What you need to look at rather than pour point is the viscosity numbers of the individual oils at 40C and 100C as listed by the manufacturer. The Shell products at this link are a good example ( http://www.shell-lubricants.com/products/pdf/FormulaShellMotorOils.pdf ) compared to these (http://www.shell-lubricants.com/products/pdf/FormulaShellFullSynthetic.pdf )


The best oil for a stock gas engine is an oil that is in the 10-12 cSt range at 100C and 60 cSt or lower at 40C. After you have found a selection of these oils, look at the pour point and the borderline pumping temperature if the oil is used in the winter. Usually the synthetic or synthetic blends will have the best specs here.

If you digest one mans opinion in the 10 articles at the link ( http://63.240.161.99/motoroil/ ), you may come to the similar conclusions :smile: though there is lots of room for discussion and difference of opinion.

Happy reading :eek7:

JD

If you digest one mans opinion in the 10 articles at the link ( http://63.240.161.99/motoroil/ ), you may come to the similar conclusions :smile: though there is lots of room for discussion and difference of opinion.

Happy reading :eek7:

JD

Well, I'm an inquisitive guy, so I did read it and found it interesting :smile: Next question would then be, based on the articles above, is it necessary, or maybe better, to change to different oils based on the time of year?

I bought this car used, is there any way to know if the car is running dino oil, and what are the chances that something might go wrong if I change to synthetic oil?

JViking

The idea behind the development of multigrade oils was to get over the need to change oils based on the time of the year. (30 in summer and 10 in winter) Now the choice if you want, is dino or syn based on time of year

You won't know what kind of oil is in the vehicle unless you talk to the previous owner or they left a sticker somewhere. Best thing would be to change it as soon as you think it needs it.

Some feel that using a synthetic in an older vehicle will increase the possibility of seals leaking and think that oil consumption might increase but that is not necessarily true. That would be the only possible problem that I see with switching at this time. The best reason for using a synthetic in an older vehicle is better startup lube and easier cranking in cold weather. That would be true in a new vehicle too but you also have the opportunity to prevent wear early in vehicle life. In an older vehicle most of the wear benefits are past taking advantage of.

I use a 5w30 or 0w30 year around. Summer could be either dino or syn (depends on whim and wallet) and winter is synthetic for sure.

I've also changed out the diffs and transfer case to synthetic oil for better cold weather operation but they also reduce heat generation in the summer too. I use the MOPAR ATF+4 in the transmission as that is the only lube upgrade recommended by chrysler for these automatics and it has worked well to improve a shift problem that was happening when cold. We'll see what happens with that when winter comes again.

Again, all of this is just my opinion and preference. Sometimes it makes sense - even to me:biggrin:.

JD

The best reason for using a synthetic in an older vehicle is better startup lube and easier cranking in cold weather.
JD

Ok, I'm lucky since I have an engine warmer (not sure what it's called in english. It's an electricall heating device that you plug into the motor block) that should make cranking easier on the car.

Thanks for alle the info!

JViking

The block heater for the cooling system will make engine cranking easier but will have almost 0 effect on how fast the oil reaches the bearings after startup. Thats why you use the oil with the lowest cold temperature viscosity in the winter. It is also where consideration of the borderline pumping spec and pour point come in (if you want to get into that area).

You could also use a magnetic oil pan heater to keep the oil warm overnite. I've used a dipstick heater but that tended to cook the oil on the dipstick so I don't think it is so good for the oil either.

I like to change to the 0w30 for the coldest months no matter what I've been using the rest of the year. Tests I've seen show that there is oil flow thru the bearings in less than 20 seconds at -35C where a 10w30 takes over a minute for the same flow to happen at that temperature.

JD

I like to change to the 0w30 for the coldest months no matter what I've been using the rest of the year. Tests I've seen show that there is oil flow thru the bearings in less than 20 seconds at -35C where a 10w30 takes over a minute for the same flow to happen at that temperature.

JD

Well, I was thinking using 5W30 year round, specifically Shell Helix AB which I think would give me what I'm looking for. Mostly the temperatures here in the southern parts of Norway don't get as low as -30C, hardly less than -25C for more than a week, and from what I have seen of the specs, the pour point for this oil is -42C which is sufficient.

JViking

Well, I was thinking using 5W30 year round, specifically Shell Helix AB which I think would give me what I'm looking for. Mostly the temperatures here in the southern parts of Norway don't get as low as -30C, hardly less than -25C for more than a week, and from what I have seen of the specs, the pour point for this oil is -42C which is sufficient.

JViking

:smokin::cool: That should do you fine!!!

JD