95 blazer need help

my blazer started acting up on my way home. Every time i tried to accelerate it would lose power and stutter. got off the highway and came to a stop at the light car stalled. I was able to restart it but every time i tried to put it in gear it would stall. Got it home changed the cap, rotor, plugs, plug wires, coil, fuel filter, fuel pump, got an after market fule pressure regulator and changed that. IT is a 95 blazer "W" engine. it will start if you spray fuel in the throttle body, still stalls if you put it in drive. What should i look at next CPI unit?

Pull the upper plenum and look for signs of washing (where one side is cleaner than the other) If the passenger side is washed, it's your CPI unit, if your driver's side is washed, you have a bad nut kit...Replace the nutkit anyway if you replace the CPI so you don'thave to pull it later... Some will tell you to pull the throttel vane and look down into the plenum, but that's not often accurate for the signs of washing...Do it right and pull teh plenum.

You change the fuel pump, did you get the correct one? Check your fuel pressure at the shrader valve. It should be 56-60 at start, 61-65 at running.

Have you tested for spark? Pull one of the spark plugs and touch it to the block while someone is cranking the motor and see if it's sparking. I know you replaced a lot of it...

Have you had your ignition module checked? If not pull and have it checked.

Just some stuff to think on..

my blazer started acting up on my way home. Every time i tried to accelerate it would lose power and stutter. got off the highway and came to a stop at the light car stalled. I was able to restart it but every time i tried to put it in gear it would stall. Got it home changed the cap, rotor, plugs, plug wires, coil, fuel filter, fuel pump, got an after market fule pressure regulator and changed that. IT is a 95 blazer "W" engine. it will start if you spray fuel in the throttle body, still stalls if you put it in drive. What should i look at next CPI unit?

If you want to check the CPI unit for leaking, you don't have to remove the whole upper plenum.

What you can do it remove the top vortec plate, remove the round black IMTV valve under it and take a look down in the whole with a flashlight and look for golden colored washed area, pools of fuel and a strong smell of gas.

It is much easier and only takes about 5-10 minutes instead of over an hour removing the top plenum cover.

I did it and I could see the leaking easily.

Save the plenum removal until you actually replace the CPI injector and nut kit. It is not as easy to the novice as other say it is.

Removing the upper plenum, I've said it, and I'll say it again, unless you have a flexable scope, it is inaccurate to just pull the throttel vane.... Removing the upper plenum is not difficult and you can see the whole issue...

I checked the pressure after the pump engages it goes up to about 60 but then bleeds off pretty quickly to about 20. i have spark and the module checked out ok. Would a bad computer keep it from starting and running smooth, if so how do i check the computer?

Removing the upper plenum, I've said it, and I'll say it again, unless you have a flexable scope, it is inaccurate to just pull the throttel vane.... Removing the upper plenum is not difficult and you can see the whole issue...

Please stop assuming people are mechanics on here.

REMOVING THE UPPER PLENUM COVER IS NOT CHILD'S PLAY SO STOP SAYING THAT IT IS A WALK IN THE PARK!

I WILL CONTINUE TO TELL PEOPLE TO DO IT RIGHT... Removing 9 10mm bolts is not a difficult proposition... If you don't like that, too bad, that's your problem blazerlt, not mine. As you are so fond of giving your own opinion on things, I will continue to give my own...

You change the fuel pump, did you get the correct one? Check your fuel pressure at the shrader valve. It should be 56-60 at start, 61-65 at running.

I have to agree pulling the upper plenum can be done almost blind folded.

But missing the big picture you said it bleeds off to 20 from 60 doesnt sound right.

I've seen a lot of bleed off during initial pressurisation (sic?) as soon as the pump stops. This is usually due to a bad check valve in the sending unit itself, it's really nothing to be concerned about initially as it will simply take an extra crank or 2 to start the motor. I ran with a bad one for over a year, only reason I even had it replaced was because when the fuel pulsator needed to be changed, the sending unit lines outside the tank were so corroded they had to be cut, so the sending unit needed replaced. Again, usually the check valve is not something to necessarily be concerned about...

You change the fuel pump, did you get the correct one? Check your fuel pressure at the shrader valve. It should be 56-60 at start, 61-65 at running.

I have to agree pulling the upper plenum can be done almost blind folded.

But missing the big picture you said it bleeds off to 20 from 60 doesnt sound right.

It appears that the aftermarket regulator is not the problem and in fact
you should have changed the whole cmfi unit. theses were designed to last only about 125 k. the coil in the injector shorts and the resulting
shut down of the pcm results until the injector wire is removed. new
laws in california has mandated chevy and gmc to repair and replace
all fuel injection componets to last for 200k. 1996 is the cutoff date.anything older has the same problems but we have to fix em or junk em.i just got my cmfi unit and fuel line kit for 511.00 from chevy
and will attempt to keep you advised when my 94 is up and running good again.i,m looking for the disappearing anti freeze and dont want to
install until the leak or crack is found. ted