1990 Maxima won't start

I have a 1990 Maxima that cranks, but seeing no spark from the coil. Where do I begin. The car has sat for a while, but periodially started. Then one day it just turned over, but wouldn't fire. Please help!

I have a 1990 Maxima that cranks, but seeing no spark from the coil. Where do I begin. The car has sat for a while, but periodially started. Then one day it just turned over, but wouldn't fire. Please help!


First check you have continuous (even during start) +12V at coil. If not, ign key contacts bad? --->Add jump wire from batter +12V to coil +12V pole to bypass ign switch ---> start... if starts, its ign sw.

If u get voltage, maybe its dead transistor/condensator assy near the coil.

The distributor has the crank angle sensor: early ECU's will not let ignh fire if the signal is bad.

Check that sensor: http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/748507/9

Online wiring diagrams for ign/distr/ECU can be found at www.autozone.com

First check you have continuous (even during start) +12V at coil. If not, ign key contacts bad? --->Add jump wire from batter +12V to coil +12V pole to bypass ign switch ---> start... if starts, its ign sw.

If u get voltage, maybe its dead transistor/condensator assy near the coil.

The distributor has the crank angle sensor: early ECU's will not let ignh fire if the signal is bad.

Check that sensor: http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/748507/9

Online wiring diagrams for ign/distr/ECU can be found at www.autozone.com
Ok I checked the 12v at the coil lead while cranking and have a constant 12v. What and where does the transistor/condensator hangout near the coil and can they be test next or do I replace them? Making a little progress. Thanks Ken

Ok I checked the 12v at the coil lead while cranking and have a constant 12v. What and where does the transistor/condensator hangout near the coil and can they be test next or do I replace them? Making a little progress. Thanks Ken

Not been on this problem on this car: generally u can tst transistors with ohmmeter, but that gives only vague idea. If possible, get another from junkyard.

The wiring diagram shows one wire to transistor base. This transistor emitter wire grounds the coil (if trans works). Then one wire from this (grounded wire) goes to ECU, used to lower the ign voltage as engine runs. [Ign voltage is kept higher during start]

Is coil ok?

Drop down resistor & its connections will not affect start, but will affect how the engine runs if broken.

I suppose u are sure that injectors click? They can be tested by taking distributor off and rotating [ign on]. All injectors should click one by one...

Not been on this problem on this car: generally u can tst transistors with ohmmeter, but that gives only vague idea. If possible, get another from junkyard.

The wiring diagram shows one wire to transistor base. This transistor emitter wire grounds the coil (if trans works). Then one wire from this (grounded wire) goes to ECU, used to lower the ign voltage as engine runs. [Ign voltage is kept higher during start]

Is coil ok?

Drop down resistor & its connections will not affect start, but will affect how the engine runs if broken.

I suppose u are sure that injectors click? They can be tested by taking distributor off and rotating [ign on]. All injectors should click one by one...

I really appreciate your help, not knowing the Japanese imports. Well I'm getting closer. The injectors click when I removed the dist. and turned it like you said. Is there an easy way to check the coil. I probably should of been clearer in the begining. As I crank the engine with plenty of spin, no spark from the coil, thus no start. Thanks again

I really appreciate your help, not knowing the Japanese imports. Well I'm getting closer. The injectors click when I removed the dist. and turned it like you said. Is there an easy way to check the coil. I probably should of been clearer in the begining. As I crank the engine with plenty of spin, no spark from the coil, thus no start. Thanks again


Coils two windings (primary/secondary) should have near zero resistance, if none, they're broken. Test between -/+ and -/highV pole.

The injector tst also did tell that ECU is alive at least partly.

Go to junkyard and buy the transistor & coil, swap. Quite cheap. Or some parts shops might have them, quite generally used on nissans.

ok back again, it's Sunday and have been checking more item and still won't start.
I haven't found the correct coil as yet. The ones I come across have different plugs or the resistor mounted on the coil.
I did find a manual with some tips on checking parts. I did check the continuity on the resistor and it checks out ok.
I check the coil resistance across to two terminals and it's about 1.0 ohms also get resistance from one of the small terms to the main plug.
The book said to put a timing light on #1 and check spark while cranking and I get nothing.
I have made sure the timing and distibutor are correct. Installed new rotor and cap, and still no fire to plugs.
When I checked the plug to the coil while cranking as we talked about earlier I had constant power from one wire, what is the other for and can I check it for anything?
:banghead: I don't know what to do next.

ok back again, it's Sunday and have been checking more item and still won't start.
I haven't found the correct coil as yet. The ones I come across have different plugs or the resistor mounted on the coil.
I did find a manual with some tips on checking parts. I did check the continuity on the resistor and it checks out ok.
I check the coil resistance across to two terminals and it's about 1.0 ohms also get resistance from one of the small terms to the main plug.
The book said to put a timing light on #1 and check spark while cranking and I get nothing.
I have made sure the timing and distibutor are correct. Installed new rotor and cap, and still no fire to plugs.
When I checked the plug to the coil while cranking as we talked about earlier I had constant power from one wire, what is the other for and can I check it for anything?
:banghead: I don't know what to do next.

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/4/web/748000-748999/748507_113.jpg

The coill gets constant +12V, thats ok.

When ECU grounds its pin1 , the spark is generated. Maybe that can be simulated. I would take all wires except that +12V off and try shorting the coil - terminal on ground ---> quick short snap and look for spark as engine is at timing mark, spark phase (u got two phases).

You can buy/try 'any' coil, just temporarily workaround the connecting problem, scrap the resistors. Insulate well the high voltage terminal if u going to use it longer. No real hazard but if it is shorting, kills the rpm.

If swapping transistor assy AND coil does not help, inside ECU box ign transistor is dead. Buy new ECU, -or- replace the transistor on the pcb which connects to ECU pin 1.

Dunno what type the transistor is, where to buy. But thats a challenge... tell me how it goes, pls.

I will go to another wrecking yard tomorrow that has a 92 Maxima. I will find another coil and transistor and swap them first. Will the ecu from the 92 swap out to my 90 and work correctly?

I will go to another wrecking yard tomorrow that has a 92 Maxima. I will find another coil and transistor and swap them first. Will the ecu from the 92 swap out to my 90 and work correctly?


I am not sure: the ECU's have different program versions, and as far as I know, no real public documentation. Seek out serial numbers and their versions...

If u have automatic, my guess is, dont buy ECU from manual.

The only way is to try: if the thing costs a lot, ask for return possibility as in any old electronic purchase.

Still banging my head even harder now.
went to yard and got new-used coil and eccu from a 92 with auto.
changed coil first (same as original 0 - cranked and no change, still no spark from coil wire.
before I changed out the eccu I ran the codes (mode 3 ) got 11 & 21
changed out eccu and still no spark.
went back to old eccu and with key in on position, checked 12v at white/green wire to coil plug has 12v
reconnected and removed plug from transister and have 12v to A terminal (first one to left) reconnected and went to dist. plug, unpluged and have 12v to one of the 4 terminals (not sure of color) when I touched the green terminal with test light, I heard what sounded like fuel pressure noise from area of fuel filter then got a snap spark from the coil to ground. I had the coil lead off and it was near the block. I don't know what else to look for. It's got to be something simple! could it be the distributor?

Still banging my head even harder now.
went to yard and got new-used coil and eccu from a 92 with auto.
changed coil first (same as original 0 - cranked and no change, still no spark from coil wire.
before I changed out the eccu I ran the codes (mode 3 ) got 11 & 21
changed out eccu and still no spark.
went back to old eccu and with key in on position, checked 12v at white/green wire to coil plug has 12v
reconnected and removed plug from transister and have 12v to A terminal (first one to left) reconnected and went to dist. plug, unpluged and have 12v to one of the 4 terminals (not sure of color) when I touched the green terminal with test light, I heard what sounded like fuel pressure noise from area of fuel filter then got a snap spark from the coil to ground. I had the coil lead off and it was near the block. I don't know what else to look for. It's got to be something simple! could it be the distributor?

What are the codes, I have not them now here...

Now you have all the spares, they are 75% sure to work. May be dead also... Measure/compare both the transistor assy's with ohmmeter.

I thought u checked the distributor first? Its pure mechanics; rotor and cap with a cap 'coal' touching the rotor. Replace both; that is the first thing...

I already mentioned about this, how is it. Did u check?
The distributor has the crank angle sensor: early ECU's will not let ign fire if the signal is bad. Check that sensor: http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/748507/9

If u still suspect distr, buy that from the scrapyard.

Is distributor well grounded? The stupid gnd 'pin' on the distr IS oxidized.



ECU will not give spark if it does not receive ign ON -signal from ign key lock. Maybe start position in the ign lock sw is worn out? Try starting directly from starter engine solenoid.

See for ECU (pin 43) info to verify that power from ign sw is on and ECU is able to drive spark transistor:
http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/748507/15

Do u have spark on your off engine test sparkplug? Now u have rotated a lot your engine. Plugs become wet, no start. Check plugs, clean. Or try starter ether gas.

.

:smokin: I want to thank you so much for your help and patience. It finally started today. It was the STUPID GRN on the dist. I removed the dist and then removed the clip and wire wheeled them, put it back in the car and the damn thing stated in 2 seconds.
Now heres the rest of the story:
This car has sat for a year and a half at my neighbors house while his daughter is away at college. He would go out once or twice and start it, until one day last year when it wouldn't start. So it sat, and sat. Frustrated to all get out, he ask me if I wanted the car for free. I can't pass up a deal like that. I was thinking of parting out the car as best I can and sending the rest to the yard, until I notice that it is accually in great shape. No tears in the leather, all power options, and so on. That is why I came to this site for help. Thanks again. I might be back with more Q&A if I run into more problems.

.... It was the STUPID GRN on the dist. I removed the dist and then removed the clip and wire wheeled them, put it back in the car and the damn thing stated in 2 seconds....


YESS! Its cool to have smtg running after a real fight. Btw, that was tough problem.

Take a look at how my rpm signal looked before (bad shape, spiky) the ground cleanup, and what it is now (=nice square wave).

Ground checks pay always. Like for california home owners...


--->The distributor has the crank angle sensor: early ECU's will not let ign fire if the signal is bad. Check that sensor: http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/748507/9


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