95 passport timing belt removal

I am in the process of replacing the water pump/timing belt on a 95 passport 3.2 4X4, the only problem i am having this far is removing the idler pulley when i try to unscrew the nut in the middle of it, the whole engine turns, I have remove all the belts and most of the components in front of the engine.

thanks in advance for any information

I think you mean the front crankshaft pulley.If so, here is how I have always got them loose.I put a breaker bar on it long enough to fit under the frame and disable the ingition.Then have someone bump the starter.After you get the bolt out the pulley sometimes the pulley is a little stuck.Get a couple of pry bars and keep working it back and forth untill it walks off.Put something under it so it doesn,t hit the floor because it can chip the pulley.Look at your tensioner, if it is leaking oil go ahead and replace it.When they go bad they sound just like a rod knock.Be carefull.Carl

thank myou very much for the information, i will try it in the morning and let you guys know my luck

I am having the same issue. thanks for the info Carl!!! Is that a regular thread or is this darn tuff bolt a reverse thread? I have a long torque wrench and a crappy strap wrench, to hold the pulley. I cannot get enough force to break loose the bolt. What other suggestions do you have to help?
Regards, Steve

Steve,If you don,t have a breaker bar you can put a pipe on your ratchet or jack handle etc.I usually wedge it underneath the truck.Just be sure and disable the ignition first so it doesn,t start.It is regular thread.Carl

The crankshaft pulley bolt is a regular thread. The breaker bar against the frame method will work to get the bolt loose, however, you then have the problem of getting it back on. An impact wrench is your best bet if you've got one...you'll probably need one that goes to at least 350 ft/lbs to crack that thing off and the air compressor will need to be at least 4.6 cfm @90 psi to provide enough power. If you're going to replace the timing belt I'd recommend you go the whole 9 yards and replace the tensioner, idler pulley( the one the tensioner braces against), and the water pump..that way you don't risk having to do this whole thing again if something should fail.

Hehe..I just realized that its easy to make a typo and put "water pimp" which is what I almost did a second ago since the U is right next to the I.

BIAR,
The description and information about the tensioner help me out tremendously! I could not figure out what was wrong with my Rodeo and I found your response. I thought I was going to have to replace or rebuild the engine. After I replaced the timing belt tensioner, my Rodeo runs great without any knocking noise. Thanks alot!!!

About the crankshaft removal, I used a large pair of channel locks to grip the pulley while I used a breaker bar with a pipe extension to break the bolt loose. Then, I used a little WD40 to loosen the pulley from the crank shaft. A few taps on the pulley and it should come loose.

moter,I glad hear it helped.I Learned about the tensioner noise when I was still at honda before isuzu.The instructor said they had a guy rebuild a engine for the tensioner being bad.So they warned us about it.Carl