replaceing vaulve guide seals

Ok ive been haveing this reacurring problem... everytime i change my oil for about 1000 miles on the new oil, when i start my car it blows out blue smoke... if i sit too long at a stop light it will blow out blue smoke when i take off. but here reacently i put marvel mistery oil in my car (cleans out gunk) and i beleive it cleaned out all the gunk thats been helping the vaulve guide seals seal... if i sit for like 4-5 mins it starts to smoke without throttle... and when i start up i get alot of smoke... and same with stop light... now i looked into geting them replaced... i call mitsu and they want $1200 to replace them WITHOUT THE REOMVAL OF THE HEADS. so i dont see why such the high price... so i think i want to replace them my self but i need some feed back... whats all required... i know the vaulve lifter pressure tool is required... but i cant find the remover its self, do i have to customize one or what... and i need a step by step operation guide... that or a cheaper place to go ;) is there anyone here from texas near the metraplex who knows of anyone who does that?

1200 sounds extremely high, especially since that doesn't even include removing the heads.

call 972-243-1204, Special Interest Automotive in Dallas. i worked there for a summer. good people. ask them to give you a quote to replace the valve stem seals. i trust them, they do good work.

also, you might try contacting user AdamVR4 at 3si.org. he's an Austin kid but goes to school at SMU in Dallas. knows a LOT about 3/S's and has much experience working on them. he says he'll do a valve stem job for $450 labor and you can expect to pay around 150 for the seals. here's the link at 3si: http://www.3si.org/forum/showthread.php?t=255662&page=2&pp=10.

hope those 2 options work. i'm sure Adam will give you the best deal.

I cant really get on 3si ive tried but i dont have a private email account just msn... so i cant really contact him...
you say this place in dallas is good?
will they have to remove the heads?
the whole purpose of me not doing it is because i dont want the heads removed...
i can do it, but my only conflict is the timing on the car... i hear its a bitch... and im scared to get one notch off and loose some hp... really i can do the front head my self within 2 hrs... i have the tools but i cant do the rear seals agiants the fire wall...

i'll see Adam tomorrow at a Dyno Day with a bunch of 3si guys. i'm not sure if its possible to do the valve stem seals on the rear bank of cylinders w/o removing the heads. i'll ask him tho. i'll try and get his e-mail so you can contact him that way. i'm sure he'd be more than happy to help you with the process he uses.

YES, this place in Dallas is good. they employ all Master Technicians, very very knowledgable about everything. the owner has a few drag cars, and he really knows his stuff (70 mustang with 572 engine ran a 8.9 in the 1/4 mile at 150 mph....PLUG for dragging!).

i've never done a valve stem seal job, but if you compare it to being much easier than the timing job, then it can't be that bad. i've done the timing on my car when i did the 60k tune-up, and really, the timing isn't that hard at all. you just have to remove a bunch of parts to get to the timing belt and cams. no reason to fear being 1 tooth off...just make sure the timing marks are aligned...its really just that simple. (of course, there are several websites that document the process, but it sounds like you have a fairly good knowledge and experience with cars and their mechanics).

i'll contact Adam and see if he would give you his e-mail. take it easy.

-andrew

Ok Cool... thx man... yeah Mistsu said they can do it without removeing heads but their is probally more to it... its the back line of vaulves that worry me... right there agiants the fire wall... there is about 6 - 8 inches of room with the turbo and all that good stuff removed... plus the seals are about a inch or so in... but its also at that funny slant. so mabey the tool might fit?...
to get 1 notch off is hp lost... belive it or not... true it might not be much. but doesnt ever bit help? its not like timeing a eclipse thats easy, but the 4 cams sorta scares me... because when you get 2 ready you might pull on belt and mess them up while doing the other 2 not knowing... mabey im just weird...
My freinds up at MVP told me to go get some "engine restore" and put it in my oil... they said that might help. i think it has some chemicals to help swell up the rubber seals and seal off better... but stuff like that might clog the oil sending unit... but i used it anyways just out of desparation... but i did use some of the marvel mistery oil before my last oil change and i tell you what, man that stuff works... used to when i checked my oil after 1500 miles it would be almost black... but now after useing that it check it at 1500 and it was yellow just like it was when i put it in... so what im thinking is that it cleaned all the gunk around the seals, and the gunk was helping seal the seals...