GSR vs LS

In going with a motor, would has the most potential for overall power (torgue and horse), and has a good availability of parts to add on later? I know the LS is non VTEC, but with a VTEC conversion, which motor would be better?

With a vtec conversion on the LS, the GS-R would still be better IMO. With the LS; unless you have a good amount of motor work, you're not going to be able to rev it nearly as high as the GS-R. And that's where vtec makes the most of it's power, in high rpms. But then again, I've heard of people making quite a bit more power out of LS/vtec's over GS-R's. And both motors have just as many aftermarket parts available.

What is the difference between the two? They are both 1.8's, is just just internals that are different? This has been one of the things I could never figure out, why is the GS-R so desirable for most people?

GSR rotating assembly is designed with high RPM in mind. The LS internals are not balanced like B16A/B and B18C internals which is why it doesn't stand high RPM abuse as well. I believe there is another difference in the block itself. Someone can correct me if I'm wrong but I believe the B18C blocks have oil squirters for the pistons. To put it simply, LS/VTEC can be an awesome combo. But to maximize it's full potential, you need to choose ALL the right parts. It may be more simple to just go full GSR engine.

yes the gsr has oil squirters and a girdle. you dont need the oil squirters if you have aftermarket pistons.

the ls has a longer stroke about 2mm longer, both have the same bore so thats why the ls is over 1800cc and hte gsr is under 1800cc.

rod stroke ratio on the LS block isn't high RPM friendly.

rod stroke ratio on the LS block isn't high RPM friendly.

in theory, neither is the b18c's, but with enforced parts and balance, you can make it rev high.

imo, the ls/vtecs are a budget option because you can start with a b16/17 or with the ls block then later, when you have more money you can mix them.
if you have the money just go with the GSR, and if you want that little extra displacement just swap in a LS or B20 crank with aftermarket conrods.

I'm trying to build a LS/Vtec and I want to know what would be the best set up...? I'm thinking about GSR head, ITR headers and a cuple more things to the head (camshaft, adjustables cam gears and for the block I will change the pulleys) I think thats good, but I know you guys could help me do better for less $$$.... what do u think...

B16A head has better flow characteristics than a GSR head. Or was it the intake manifold?

dont change out yoru crank pulley

I know the GSR has a "dual stage intake". any ways, do you think I should put a B16 head and get some B16 pistons? or shuold I leave the block wiht stock ones?

If it were me, I'd change the entire rotating assembly to one that is designed to handle high RPMs.

Like what?...

B16A head has better flow characteristics than a GSR head. Or was it the intake manifold?

thats a myth(flow); http://www.importreview.com/reviews/LSvtecGSRvsB16Ahead.html
but i think the b16a manifold does flow better because lack of secondaries in the way.

if you can get them at a good price, then yes get the b16a pistons and head. the b16a pistons will be around 11.5:1 CR(a little higher with GSR head).

The GSR/Type-r and B16A cranks had revs in mind so that wouldnt matter. The Formula 4AGE(Toyota Racing motor) has a r/s thats about the same as the GSR/Type-R(1.58:1) and revs to 11,000rpm.

but I also want to go turbo, isnt bad running a high compression?.....

in that case keep the stock pistons. its possible to run high compression+turbo but it takes alot of tuning. also, the B16A head will have lower compression then the GSR head.

Yes, its very bad to go turbo with such high compression (CTR pistons). Or even anything past 10 to 1 in my opinion. Unless of course you build your engine really well for that kind of application. But even then, if you really want to go turbo why don't you save some money and headaches and just go with an LS block. Oh and as far as that other topic I think that the GSR block is worth every penny for the reliability of it as far as high reving, high compression engines are concerned. What do you mean you don't need oil squirters if you run aftermarket pistons. Anything that revs past 8k needs extra lubrication. Frankenstein engines are fast but not reliable.

oil squirters dont lubricate anything, it shoots the bottom of the piston to cool it down. but thats for stock pistons, with aftermarket pistons you dont need them because they keep cool enough. you can run them but most of the pros dont use them. i mean if they come stock dont remove them, but you dont need them. removing them will increase oil pressure

what about the oil pan?... do you need to change it because of the amount of oil sucked by the head? or I could just leave the stock one in the LS?
to mmake it easy for me, what are the main things I have to look at to build a good LS/Vtec at a good price?

Sorry once again, but I also heard that you cant just drop a B16 or GSR head into your LS block, my friend told me that you have to send it to a shop so they can work it and make it fit?.. what its true about that?

the only thing you might have a machine shop do is tap the head for the plug you have to put in it.

machine shop stuff is ol skool. check GE's vtec conversion kit

ohooo!!... thats new to me, I tought that If I got the Vtec conversion kit I didn't need the Vtech head. But now I know that the Vtec conversion kit is to make the connection between the head and the block wiht no need of drilling or anything like that.... OK thanks!

one of my friends is going to put B16A pistons on his LS and try to run it without a Vtec head. isn't that just wrong? or there is anything positive out of all of that?...

Just to close this thread, I want 200 - 220 hp in my LSVtec. what would be the must reliable set up to make it possible? I'm confuse between all the GSR and B16 stuff, and the most reasonable thing I've heard is "going wiht a B16A head, ECU and pistons. Get the ITR headers and 2.5" cat and pipe with a magmaflow exhaust. drop some CTR cams and adjustable gears. A fuel pressure regulator and a good intake".
thats all I know that could get me to 180 - 200 hp.

I know you guys have some hardcore ideas so lets make this reliable and fast car possible.

with a b16 head, pistons, ecu, and ctr cams on your ls. it could get to 200whp. the only thing that would stop that would be the tuning. the stock b16 ecu isnt made to handle the extra displacement. you need to get it tuned for the extra displacement. this is where i recommend some kind of stand alone ecu, like hondata, uberdata, aem. but seeing as how you dont have the money for that. best thing would be get it on a dyno and keep turning up the fuel pressure till you hit a fpr of around 13.5