parking brake cable?
towerguy
02-08-2005, 12:33 PM
I recently bought a 1993 Ranger (2WD, 3.0l XLT). Low milage, but came from upstate NY, so lots of rust. It runs well (except for surging idle when really cold, but I'll address that when the weather warms up!), but I have a problem with the rear brakes. I had to change both rear drums, due to wear and excessive rust; also changed shoes, springs and wheel cylinders. But it still seems like the left rear brake is dragging, even when parking brake released. I think the cable is too taut, but I can't figure out how to loosen it. Any ideas? BTW, I got the Haynes repair manual, and they describe a hole somewhere that you can insert a pin to release cable tension, but I sure can't find it, and naturally that is the one procedure without a diagram! Any help greatly appreciated.
EVH5150
02-08-2005, 05:12 PM
On the inside of the wheel assembly there is a ovular hole at the bottom with a rubber plug in it. remove the plug and take a long thin flathead screwdriver and push against a plate behind the adjusting screw, while at the same time taking another wider blade screwdriver and rotate the screw upward to retract the brake shoes. It's hard to explain and can be a pain in the ass to do, but I hope this helps ya.
towerguy
02-08-2005, 05:23 PM
Thanks for the reply. I am familiar with the brake adjuster wheel, but that is not the problem. I took the drum off (again) and checked the adjuster; just for good measure, I backed it off a few clicks, but the problem persists. Like I said, it seems like the e-brake cable is just a little too tight, and I can't find any way to adjust it. Also, it seems that even if I want to replace the cable, I'll still need to release the tension on it. Anyone ever done this on this truck? I am appreciating disk brakes more and more!
Austin8214
02-08-2005, 05:55 PM
The simpliest thing you could do is just cut the e-brake cable and replace it. If the truck is as rusty as you say the cable is most likely junk anyway. I have seen this happen many times here in Michigan. The salt they use on the roads in the winter plays hell with all sorts of things not just the body. In fact I never ues my e-brake for just that reason.
towerguy
02-08-2005, 09:29 PM
Austin, Thanks, that sounds like a reasonable approach. Do you think I should chop the whole thing, or just that (left) side? TIA, TG.
Mark E M
02-08-2005, 11:47 PM
Towerguy, BEST thing to do first, is grab the e-cable that you see, in the driver side rear wheel well, and shake it hard, and beat it against the frame rail. When it pops loose you will hear and feel a light ping. then it is totally released. don't step on the e-brake pedal again untill you get the cables replaced or it will stick again. My 99' is doing the same thing... Will replace mine in the spring. Hope this helps. Later, Mark.
Austin8214
02-09-2005, 05:15 PM
I would recomend replaceing all of the cables if you can. like i said you will most likely continue to have troubles be cause of all the rust.
floydrturbo
02-16-2005, 01:52 PM
I had the same problem with my ranger. I put in all new drums cylinders shoes adjusters and brake cables. the left brake dragged even with the parking brake released. took it apart and put it together again.same thing. loosened up the adjuster. backed up a few times and the adjuster tighted back up and it dragged again actually heated up the drum hot to the touch. Like you said,the cable seems too tight but you do not know how to loosen it. If your adjustment cable is good and loose when released and it still drags do what I did .I cut 3 or 4 coils off of the brake cable spring. This took care of the problem for me. Parking brake works great and no more drag.
towerguy
02-17-2005, 11:10 AM
Thanks, Floyd. Are you talking about the spring on the wheel end of the cable, or some other spring? If I can figure out how, I'm going to disconnect the cable at the pedal end, then re-install it. If that doesn't fix it, it's spring cutting time! Thank again.
floydrturbo
02-17-2005, 01:36 PM
I am talking about the spring on the wheel end of the cable. The way it is set up stock pulls the whole brake assembly off center. I took off the cable and used a disc grinder to cut off enough coils so that the spring just holds the cable onto the e-brake lever inside the drum. If your cables are in good shape and adjusted to release fully, cutting that spring back will fix your problem.Don't even bother with the pedal end.
towerguy
02-20-2005, 05:50 PM
I was looking at the pedal, and I see a rachet-looking thing right under the brake release. Q. Is this the self-adjuster? And if so, anyone know how to release it? TIA
towerguy
02-28-2005, 10:48 AM
Anyone know how to disconnect e-brake cable from the pedal? TIA
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