half axles
SteveLauben
02-05-2005, 08:13 PM
can I do these myself? Biggest job I've ever done was a head gasket on a 4 cylinder. Are special tools needed? Ive got a quote at 170 per side.
jeffcoslacker
02-06-2005, 08:19 AM
can I do these myself? Biggest job I've ever done was a head gasket on a 4 cylinder. Are special tools needed? Ive got a quote at 170 per side.
They aren't that difficult, if you have a working knowlege of tools and how to use them. It is easy to really make some aggravating and costly mistakes if you mess it up, so you have to make that call.
It boils down to this.
Lift the car and remove the wheel(s). Split the lower ball joint and outer tie rod end with a fork (you can rent it at AutoZone, or buy one for about $10)
Pull the brake caliper off, and wire it outta the way. Don't let it hang.
Take the spindle nut off the hub (probably have to buy a socket for it, again, AZ)
Swing the spindle and strut out, pulling the hub off the shaft's splines. If it is stuck, give the end of the shaft some hits with a plastic hammer, or put a piece of wood over it and hit with a hammer. Now the shaft is ready to come out. All that's left to do is put a good sized pry bar between the inner CV joint and the tranny case, and give a quick, hard "snap" to release the internal snap ring from its' groove, and the shaft will pull out of the case.
Installation is the reverse, except make sure:
1. Keep the shaft pushed together as you handle it and work with it. If you don't the inner joint will fall apart. It is just three big ball bearings sitting in cups, but a pain in the ass to try to get them back in place.
2. The shaft has to be pushed into the case hard enough to make it snap in place, but you can't hammer it or anything, so you'll have to figure that one out. I have gotten pretty good at just ramming them in hard enough to make 'em click. If you haven't done one before, it make take several tries. Again, don't let the inner come apart while you are doing it.
3. Make sure you torque the spindle nut to spec, and make sure the rubber boots on the tie rod and ball joint weren't torn during splitting. Be sure to replace any locking hardware you took off.
Good luck, it not a bad job.
They aren't that difficult, if you have a working knowlege of tools and how to use them. It is easy to really make some aggravating and costly mistakes if you mess it up, so you have to make that call.
It boils down to this.
Lift the car and remove the wheel(s). Split the lower ball joint and outer tie rod end with a fork (you can rent it at AutoZone, or buy one for about $10)
Pull the brake caliper off, and wire it outta the way. Don't let it hang.
Take the spindle nut off the hub (probably have to buy a socket for it, again, AZ)
Swing the spindle and strut out, pulling the hub off the shaft's splines. If it is stuck, give the end of the shaft some hits with a plastic hammer, or put a piece of wood over it and hit with a hammer. Now the shaft is ready to come out. All that's left to do is put a good sized pry bar between the inner CV joint and the tranny case, and give a quick, hard "snap" to release the internal snap ring from its' groove, and the shaft will pull out of the case.
Installation is the reverse, except make sure:
1. Keep the shaft pushed together as you handle it and work with it. If you don't the inner joint will fall apart. It is just three big ball bearings sitting in cups, but a pain in the ass to try to get them back in place.
2. The shaft has to be pushed into the case hard enough to make it snap in place, but you can't hammer it or anything, so you'll have to figure that one out. I have gotten pretty good at just ramming them in hard enough to make 'em click. If you haven't done one before, it make take several tries. Again, don't let the inner come apart while you are doing it.
3. Make sure you torque the spindle nut to spec, and make sure the rubber boots on the tie rod and ball joint weren't torn during splitting. Be sure to replace any locking hardware you took off.
Good luck, it not a bad job.
mpumas
02-07-2005, 01:15 PM
You might as well change the oil seal on the transmission at the same time. And make sure the seal riding surface is perfectly clean (no dog hairs before inserting back into the tranny. It will snap in. You should feel it when it snaps in.
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