I've got a question for you TSC

I'm lookin to do some bodywork on my mustang.. Mainly I'm removing all the chrome mouldings around the front and rear windows, but that leaves a BIG gap to fill. I'm wondering what the best way to do this is... In the post below you mentioned a fiberglass-esque filler, but at $20 a quart, it'd cost a bunch to fill all this I'd imagine. Here is a picture of the front windshield gap:
http://www.turboslut.net/anonymous/windowgap.jpg
In the front, The gap is about 7/8" deep where the roofline ends, dropping down to the 'window' area. There is 5/8" gap between where the 'window' area begins and the actual windshield lies. The windshield is 1/4" thick. So there is a gap like this that I need to fill:
http://www.turboslut.net/anonymous/windshieldgap.jpg
This goes all the way around the windshield. The rear is more of a rough, unfinished area that I'll most likely grind and bondo to smooth it out. Its originally a vinyl top car(not anymore), so these gaps are extra large to hold the extra vinyl. Any suggestions? It might not take more than a couple quarts, so that wouldn't be too expensive... I don't want to use bondo for such a large fill.

Please use the PM feature in the future for questions directed to a certain member.

Whoops sorry. I thought it might help someone else in a similar situation(rather large gap to fill). And someone else might have input. I'll keep that in mind for next time.
I'll change the title so someone else will be able to tell what I'm talking about. Again, sorry, I'm used to a different forum with a much smaller community - everyone knows everyone else, so 'personal' threads are not an issue.
Edit: Apparently you can't change the title on a post. Maybe a Moderator can? GTMike, if you can, will you change the title to what I used as Subject? Should be "Filling a large gap - Epoxy, Fiberglass resin, sheet metal, or what?". Or put whatever you feel is appropriate.

you really should use sheetmetal to fill things that big and then just clean it up with filler. Of course that would require welding.

I have no problem with welding. I do lots of welding, zero fiberglassing/epoxy filling. I was contemplating welding it, but I thought filler might be a better idea. It seems like a gray area to me - seems too little to bother welding, but too much for your average body filler to handle. Thats why I asked.
Also, welding would most likely melt the glue/sealant used on the windshield. Although this car will never be driven in the rain, so if it doesnt quite seal it shouldn't be a problem. As long as it doesnt fall out!

I would definatly weld in a patch to fill in the gap. Thats quiet a large gap and the stuff that we make is targeted more to molding in body kits and shaveing body lines, non stress and non structual areas. Around the windows is accually a pretty stressed part of a car.

I would definatly weld in a patch to fill in the gap. Thats quiet a large gap and the stuff that we make is targeted more to molding in body kits and shaveing body lines, non stress and non structual areas. Around the windows is accually a pretty stressed part of a car.

Thanks. I have heard that the window is a structural area of the car, and several early mustang people who don't have subframe connectors welded in have popped their windshields out if they're running a lot of power. I hope to be producing similar power numbers. I just was hoping that since all that is there instead is a (definately non-structural) chromed moulding that I could fill it with something instead of welding such a small strip of metal in there. Body work will be starting once the motor is done, hopefully in about a month.
Also, is there any way to get the windshield out without breaking it? I've heard its nearly impossible with the modern adhesives. It'd make the job a whole lot easier.

to remove a windshield you will need awl and a piece of small piano wire. remove all the trim around the window and punch a hole all the way though the adhersive with the awl, feed the piano wire (you'll need about three feet) though the hole. Take a dowl rod or something that you can wrap the ends of the wire around to form a handle that you can grab onto. Make sure you have about foot and half or more of wire in the middle. You will need someone to help you, as you will need someone inside and someone outside the car. Now pull the piano wire back and forth, it will cut though the adhersive. It will take a while but the longer the stroke you can get the faster it will cut. Once you cut all the way around you will be able to remove the windshield. You can also use a hot wire/hot knife but I'm assuming you dont have any of this equipment, and it can get messy and more difficult than the piano wire method quick if you dont know what your doing. helps to have some of the large removeable suction cups that are make for moving glass when you remove it. If you want to know how to put it back in I'll post that up too.

Thanks a ton!! I gotta add this thread to my favorites. A bass or guitar string should work as well, right?

And when you have free time, I'd be interested to know how to put it back in. I wouldn't mind having a professional do it, its not that expensive, but I'm curious.

Damnit! You beat me to the piano wire trick TSC... :twak:

Bass wire would probably be too thick, the smallest guitar wire (I'm sorry... I'm not a musician) should do the trick.

To install it you need to scrape off all the old adhersive and clean it with a residue free cleaner. Stuff like acetone works well. Once you have it clean you'll need to get you some some of the adhersive, I use some stuff made by 3M called Window Weld, comes in a caulking type tube. It has instructions on it but basically you just run a thick bead of it all the way around the edge of the window frame making sure you dont have any bubbles or gaps, then lay the glass on top of it, you'll need several small blocks or wedges to get it even all the way around. You'll apply a little bet of pressure to it but the weight of the glass is pretty much what presses it together. follow the curing times listed on the package before removing the blocks. Once it has dried you can spray it with a water hose and have someone inside to check for leaks, more than likely you wont have any but sometimes it happens, if it does you'll need to add a little more to where it is leaking after it is dry. Once everything is good you can install the trim again.

Thanks. The car won't be driven in the rain(no windshield wipers, live spooled rear axle + 550hp + slick roads = spin out), so I'm not terribly worried about sealing. Thanks for the help!