cross drilled rotor install

i was wondering if n e one could help me on this... i was told that to install cross drilled rotors i would have to get a whole new brake caliper setup and brake pads... n e feedback would b great.

Thats BS, you can use your standard caliper and pads on a cross drilled disc as long as its the same dimensions as the standard one on you car.

Might want to spring for a new set of pads so that they break in on the new rotor.

cross drilled rotars are usless...there a wast of money, they wont increase your stopping distance at all...get new break pads

cross drilled rotars are usless...there a wast of money, they wont increase your stopping distance at all...get new break pads
They wont "decrease" :uhoh: your stopping distance but they do aid with cooling quite well, which will help with brake fade when your discs get hot. better if you have big discs and a heavy car, not worth the expense on smaller discs/cars, go for slotted discs if anything.

Dude, you're tech is about 40 years too old. Drilled holes in rotors and drums were useful when pad and shoe materials were less then ideal. When heated, they would expell gases which would not allow them to make contact with the rotor. So, holes allowed those gasses to escape. But, and this is a big but, new pads don't require this. They don't expel nearly as much gas and don't need cross drilling. So, the only purpose of this is too look cool and to cause stress cracks from uneven cooling. If you want, goto or check out Sears Point when they are having a road racing event. If you can show me one car there that uses cross drilled rotors I would be surprised. It's antique tech that just happens to look cool. Yes, I admit it. But, it does nothing for braking. If you want to learn anything about brakes, read this link. This is from a Nissan Altima site where a vendor gets taught a few things from some real mechanical engineers and people that actually race in series like Amerian Iron and American LeMans. Look for posts by MaddMatt and Jetengindoctor Cobra and slowSE-r and Jon-A. MaddMatt races for half the year and Jeteningdoctor is, well a jet engine doctor. He's a mecanical engineer.

http://corner-carvers.com/altimathread.php.html

Taken from that site you linked to -

Crossdrilled rotors-by design, crossdrilled rotors were designed for track use. Why? Because, when you drill holes in your rotors, they are designed to dissipate heat. - Is that not what I said????

So why do the likes of Porsche, Aston Martin, Ferarri, TVR, High end Mercs, Nobel, all use drilled discs? I never said they decrease stopping distance.
They are there to cool the disc, not the pad, it helps to stop you from cooking your brake fluid through heat disapation.

Also form the site you posted -
These stresses are what causes the cracking that you have seen in drilled rotors that have been subjected to extreme racing conditions. Similar cracking occurs on the surface of a non drilled rotor, but that cracking remains at the surface

Might want to spring for a new set of pads so that they break in on the new rotor.

last time I remember you want to use some used brake pads to break in the rotors.

And I have to agree with nialusa. I put some x-drilled and slotted rotors on my celica (there's a good machine shop near by that does it for free whit purchasing new rotors) and it's for break fade. Ever drive a heavy vehicle shift down so you don't have to brake as much and then watch the idiots brake so much down hill and find out that their brakes are worn out? You should already know this CelicaSt. Have you seen how hot rotors can get? Like glowing hot?

http://www.rally.gr/data/photo-large/10736.jpg

A real race car with slotted rotors. There is your proof.

last time I remember you want to use some used brake pads to break in the rotors.

You can do what you like, but that's not what I would do. New (turned) rotors, new pads. It's your money.

Drilled rotors probably don't cool any better than undrilled ones, but they do cut down on unsprung weight.

Yes they do. But, they also reduce the amount of heat that the rotor is able to absorb which is what leads to brake fade. Think about this. The rotors main job is to absorb the heat created by the pads. Big Brake kits do this by adding mass to the rotor, ie going to larger diameter, thicker rotors. This allows repeated hard stops without cooking the brakes. When you remove mass from the rotors, ie crossdrilling, you reduce the heat absorbing properties of the rotor. So, it has less ability to absorb heat from the system which makes the rotors overheat faster. And then, as you stated the heat get dissipated by the "cooling holes." Which causes uneven cooling around the holes vs the rest of the rotor surface. This leads to cracks with repeated use. Some drilled rotors are better than others. Porsche actualy casts the holes in their rotors. This makes them a little more durable but, they will still crack before a solid rotor.

All rotors will crack with hard use. But, why do something that will make them more likely to crack? Crossdrilled rotors will crack before slotted rotors. And slotted rotors will crack before "regular" rotors. I personally only use regular rotors on my cars. Have you ever seen what happens when those tiny stress cracks get bigger? Can you say multi-piece rotor?

and as i see in that pic SLOTTED rotars not drlled and slotted, the argument is that drilled and slotted rotars are usless and actaully decrease performance, find me a car that has them that is ACTAULLY a race car

if drilled/ slotted rotars are so good at heat disipation and stopping distance then why dont cars suck as nascar or even smei trucks use them?

and im not just talking about drilled or slotted, the discussion is over drilled slotted rotors

nacar brakes

http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://www.precisionproformance.com/pics/nscr2.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.precisionproformance.com/bc2070.htm&h=455&w=401&sz=17&tbnid=MwX7aEq6rvcJ:&tbnh=124&tbnw=109&start=1&prev=/images%3Fq%3Dnascar%2Bbrake%26hl%3Den%26lr%3D%26ie %3DUTF-8

and im not just talking about drilled or slotted, the discussion is over drilled slotted rotors

Sorry I`m lost now???? are we talking "drilled and slotted" discs? or just "drilled" or just "slotted"???

And fir every piccie you post of a car without drilled discs I can post one with, so its a pointless exercise really. both are used, both have there benefits and drawbacks.

http://www.maserati-alfieri.co.uk/alfieri50/mcgrath-13a.jpg

http://www.spidertrax.com/brakes_cdr1.jpg

and a picture of a Lambo for good measure although you cant see the brakes.
http://www.sampogrupp.ee/Lamborghini_Premium_950_1.jpg

I`ve just read your posts correctly, It seams that there is a little confusion going on here, I`m making a case for drilled discs on a race/big car, slotted on a smaller car, not both on any car, I agree, you probably wont find drilled and slotted discs on a race car, there is little or no need.
I think the origional discussion has long lost any sence. My head hurts now.

im jsut stating teat drilled AND slotted rotars are actually worse than standard disks...resons being theres less surface area for the pad to grab onto, as well as dissipate heat...this isnt abotu just drilled or just slotted...and keep in minds theres diffrent techniqs to drilling and slotting, proshe actaulyl hads spent thousands of dollards to find a techqniqe on dilled/slotted rotors

in essence
Drilled rotars are for frequent stops over a short period of time due to heat dissipatino properties....but this increases breaking distance and give a much greater pad wear

slotted rotars are for not so frequent stops over a long period of time. hence why F1 cars use them, they dont cool as much as drilled rotars but have less of a stopping distance to them than dirlled and dont wear as fast (but still greater than a solid rotor)

basically it comes down to drilled slotted rotors are usless, they wear pds ALOT fast, decrease breaking distance, and dont dissapate heat as well

drilled rotars are for if you autocross ( quick races with frequent stops, breaks heat up FAST so quick heat dissipation is needed)

slotteed rotars are if you drive ralley style from town to town or do mountin runs or are in a long drawn out circuit race (more than the average heat generated but not a great amoutn like autocrssing would do)

and FYI expect yoru drileld slotted rotors to last about 3/4 as lonf as a normal rotors and about 1/2 as much life outta ur break pads....when you can see chucks of break pad that means your cutting into ur pad like drilled/slotted do

so yeah theres my finla point and post

:)

slotted rotars are for not so frequent stops over a long period of time. hence why F1 cars use them,

I`m guessing from that comment that you have never watched a formula 1 race, the longest straight on formula one is only 14 secs long, the average F1 track has around 100+ braking points, the average lap is around 2-3 mins, how is that "not so frequent stops"
also F1 cars also use carbon drilled discs. not slotted.

my bad slotted rotars..i fucked up that one stement about slotted and rilled, its backward

Saw a guy from Wilwood on the TV explaining the whole theory behind slotted rotors and he said that the whole gas release thing was a myth. The slots are there to shave off a small amount of brake material so you can acheive better brake performance at higher speeds. With stockers they just heat up and melt(glaze) and lose efficiency. I dont know about the cross-drilling but sounds like all it could do is help cool and not remove material like the slotted does. Just tellin you what i was told by Wilwoods "brake specialist"

You guys are confused. This is the truth.

x-drilling causes a few things:
1) decrease unsprung weight (good), but this is negligible and will not increase performance.
2) decrease mass (bad), because it decreases the heat abosorptive capacity, causing it to heat up.
3) decreases surface area of braking surface (bad), which causes less friction with the pad, longer stopping distance.
4) increased surface area for heat dissipation(good), but this is negligible.
5) allows gas to escape (good), but this is negligible since modern pads don't produce gas.
6) cleans pads (good), to minimal extent, as in deglazing the pad. Probably not quite as well as slotted rotors, but may be helpful in rally applications, not for normal driving.
7) Worst of all, it decreases strength (bad, really bad) and makes it prone to cracking or in worst case scenario, catastrophic brake failure.

in summary, with all the points combined, there is most likely no perfomance improvement with x-drilled or slotted rotors, and there is definitely a sacrifince you are making in terms of the strength of the rotor.

yea...but thatnks for bringing up a death thread :)

MAN this is like a arguing post. Scorpion, I have drilled slotted and ceramic brake pads and they are awesome!!! Never squeak, totally smooth, never got them hot once. And they cost about as much as turning old rotors but look a hell of a lot better so why not go for it. Get a set that are the same size, get some nice pads and do it!!!

but hte whole argument is that if you have a 9" rotar, and you replace it with a 9' rotar thats drilled and slotted, you infact will break in LESS time becuase the dissipation of surface area, yes they cool better but the fact taht there is so much area that the break pad is not able to touch slows you down, think about it...tehres about %35 LESS surface area the break pad is able to touch, therefore a loss of breaking perrformance


I DO AGREE HAT THEY HELP COOL BETTER

but they simply DONT outperform a full flat surface rotar, if you want to break in less distance, upgrade your break pads, get better calipers, and get a bigger rotar (i.e. 9 inch rotar to 11 inch)

Ok 91 I do not want to get into an argument becuz you are right!!! BUT, they do not outperform if you are breaking a lot and they heat up. With flat surface rotors you are screwed when your drilled slotteds wouldn't have gotten hot. A lot of that can be the brake pad too though. My ceramics and drilled slotteds have never started to get warm. My friend and I were haulin in his wolfsburg jetta, like 130 and had to brake and then we kept braking for corners, we came to a 25 corner doin 45, luckily, because had we gone any faster we would been screwed because he hit the brakes and they were so hott they didn't work. We then barely made a stop at a light, only becuz it was uphill and some good compression downshifting did we stop. So that is why I like drilled slotteds... :)

to aid in cooling w/out drilled or slotted rotars get better break pads, besides nowadays breaks dont even really give off alot of heat anyway, so drilled and slotted are usless, except for they look good

Yeah they do look cool, you do know your shizza... cept you spelled brake pads wrong, hehehehe!

^dude, i have probably one of thes worse online spelling and grammer outof anyone on this site, i tupe like 100 words per minut, but i fuck up, ALOT

and i konly know my shizza becuase ive studied so much and read hella shit online and done tons of hands on work

you know about a year and a half to 2 years ago i didnt know ANYTHING about toyotas or engines, i knew how to change the oiul and stuff but i never knew anything technical like i do now, all you gotta do is learn and research

MAN this is like a arguing post. Scorpion, I have drilled slotted and ceramic brake pads and they are awesome!!! Never squeak, totally smooth, never got them hot once. And they cost about as much as turning old rotors but look a hell of a lot better so why not go for it. Get a set that are the same size, get some nice pads and do it!!!

i never even posted on this thread?

Christ...this old thread again, thought it died off long ago, the good old slotted/ drilled/plain discs post Yey, gatta agree with Jaybrat, now Ive got slotted halfdrilled discs thay brake 200% better than the plain discs, although that might be down to quality, manufacturing process or material type, even though they are slotted/drilled they get just as hot eventually....cool down only slightly quicker.
On the down side thay arnt as smooth in thier application as the plain discs, wear the pads down alot quicker and can have an irritating `click` from time to time, If you have big disks and lots of BHP then they might be worth considering, if not stick with the plain discs they wont let you down if you treat them right. Any disc can be made to overheat be it slotted/ drilled/ ceramic or whatever......anyway, its all blakscorpions fault :rofl: :grinyes: :grinno: :naughty: :rofl: :lol:

^lol yes i agree it is blackscorpiens fault

all in a days work.

so don't get them? Haha gg