40mpg abnormal?

i average 40mpg-ish on the highway with my 93 escort. sometimes it goes as low as 34. sometimes as high as 48. usually 36-42.

i tend to drive slow, at or occasionally under the speed limit. 55-65mph. no fast accelerating/braking.

is 40mpg what escorts get with those conditions, or does my car have some special magic?

anthony

i average 40mpg-ish on the highway with my 93 escort. sometimes it goes as low as 34. sometimes as high as 48. usually 36-42.

i tend to drive slow, at or occasionally under the speed limit. 55-65mph. no fast accelerating/braking.

is 40mpg what escorts get with those conditions, or does my car have some special magic?

anthony

wish i knew if you figure it out let me know-lol

my 94 1.9 escort with a 5 speed gets between 35 and 40 on the freeway depending on how fast i'm driving. Excellant mpg but it's a trade off 'cuz they're gutless as hell....lolol

I wish I could get 40mpg in my Escort.But I am not doing "highway" driving,just local.

Consider yourself lucky that you get that high of gas mileage. I can get 36 on my 99 2.0 but I drive up and down hills on my way to and from work.

i average 40mpg-ish on the highway with my 93 escort. sometimes it goes as low as 34. sometimes as high as 48. usually 36-42.

i tend to drive slow, at or occasionally under the speed limit. 55-65mph. no fast accelerating/braking.

is 40mpg what escorts get with those conditions, or does my car have some special magic?

anthony

Anthony,
To do a 'true' MPG study you must check the mileage over time to get an average, say ten tank fills. By doing this, you will wash out the 'differences' of things like: Was the car 'tilted' at the pump and therefore took more, or less gas to fill, temperature, majority of driving was 'highway' etc. In my view, there is too much difference in the figures to be contributed to the way it was driven. It's a given, conservative driving produces better gas mileage, but not that much difference.
All the best,
Alvin

On a 97 SPI 2.0 I used to get 42-46 and after running a bottle of fuel injector cleaner it went to 38 to 40 mpg. But, It has more power now and runs stronger in a higher gear with a lower speed. I guess you can't have it all.

I only get 24mpg with my '95 1.9L automatic escort.

[QUOTE=megamoonie]I only get 24mpg with my '95 1.9L automatic escort.[/QUOTE

Wow, 24 MPG is low. The average for the MPG's posted on this tread alone is approx. 38MPG. Has it always been that low?

Alvin

[QUOTE=megamoonie]I only get 24mpg with my '95 1.9L automatic escort.[/QUOTE

Wow, 24 MPG is low. The average for the MPG's posted on this tread alone is approx. 38MPG. Has it always been that low?

Alvin

I never really knew how to figure out the mileage. I never let it go lower then a 1/4 but I can get about 300 miles before i get to around the 1/4 mark. The car I had before (2.6 caravan) would get about 225miles to a full tank so this car is way better.

Yeah it's always been that low since I've had it, which has been since October 2004. Do you know what may be wrong with it?

I never really knew how to figure out the mileage. I never let it go lower then a 1/4 but I can get about 300 miles before i get to around the 1/4 mark. The car I had before (2.6 caravan) would get about 225miles to a full tank so this car is way better.

chevnOval1,
When you fill your car reset the trip mileage to 0. Next time you fill-up take the distance driven (trip mileage) and divide that distance by the amount of gasoline it took to fill it. Example: 300 miles divided by 8.1 gal. = 37 MPG.

Alvin

Yeah it's always been that low since I've had it, which has been since October 2004. Do you know what may be wrong with it?

It could be a combination of problems for example: brakes could be dragging, and/or engine related. It would help if you provide some specific's on the year, engine size, mileage, drivability etc. Since you've only had the car a few months you may not know about how it has been maintained....but if you do, let us know.

Alvin

Um, it is a 1995, 1.9 L engine with around 129,000 miles on it. It is my first car and I"m not sure on what you mean by driveability but I think it drives well enough. There is a noise when I turn that my cousin says sounds like a bad rack and pinion. Thanks for the help.

a Stock 1993 escort gets C-33 H-37
your just a slwo driver lol

Um, it is a 1995, 1.9 L engine with around 129,000 miles on it. It is my first car and I"m not sure on what you mean by driveability but I think it drives well enough. There is a noise when I turn that my cousin says sounds like a bad rack and pinion. Thanks for the help.

megamoonie,
What I meant by driveablity is: It's not missing dying on idle, no power etc. In other words, it runs pretty decent, just poor gas mileage.
a. Look at the air filter and see that it is nice and clean or replace it.
b. Check Ignition timing.
c. Replace the sparkplugs and wires.
d Emissions system not functioning properly. I've seen on these forums where Autozone will read the emissions system 'free'
It is suggested you do one thing at a time and look for improvement, if not, move to next one.

Alvin

Emissions system not functioning properly. I've seen on these forums where Autozone will read the emissions system 'free'

Alvin[/QUOTE]


ok im confused is this test the compter/code test from autozone? or is this a differnt test your talking about.

If there is no light coming on in the dash then I thought there is no codes to pull am I wrong?

Emissions system not functioning properly. I've seen on these forums where Autozone will read the emissions system 'free'

Alvin


ok im confused is this test the compter/code test from autozone? or is this a differnt test your talking about.

If there is no light coming on in the dash then I thought there is no codes to pull am I wrong?[/QUOTE]

chevynOva1,
Older model cars not equipped with onboard diagnostic's do not have CEL. They do have Self Test connectors under the hood where a scanner can be connected to read the 'codes' stored in the computer.
O.K.?

Alvin

ok im confused is this test the compter/code test from autozone? or is this a differnt test your talking about.

If there is no light coming on in the dash then I thought there is no codes to pull am I wrong?

chevynOva1,
Older model cars not equipped with onboard diagnostic's do not have CEL. They do have Self Test connectors under the hood where a scanner can be connected to read the 'codes' stored in the computer.
O.K.?

Alvin[/QUOTE]

that applys only to the old cars then in my case (my escort) if the light is on then there is a problem otherwise things realitively speaking is ok?

I'm not too familiar with these Fords (I have worked on too many though) but obviously I'm a old time Chevy fan. So I was just checkin with you souphound if I was under the correct understanding.

I have a 93' 1.9L with 63,500 miles on it and I drive both highway and city but i get only 26 or 27. Is it because I live in MIchigan and I need to heat the car up, and thats why it sucks gas. Or do i need to change the fuel filter or what? Am I suppose to be getting better mileage. I drive pretty good, I dont floor it much and I drive at a max at 75mph?

There are 2 distinct,different types of codes involving the CEL in the Escort.If the CEl comes on for ANY length! of time..This could be the tiniest BLIP right after it started..OR you could have missed a QUICK blink of it.This WILL store what is called a "soft code".This code will remain in the computers memory for I think 90 engine starts.IF after 90 times and this code HAS NOT come back...the computer thinks all is well and will AUTOMATICALLY erase it.I am also pretty sure that if you access this code and see it..WITHOUT erasing/re-setting it//the computer WILL see this and remember..and it will start counting AGAIN from that point for the 90 starts.The other code is a "hard code".This is when the CEL comes on and DOES NOT go off.YES! you can have BOTH codes in it for basically the same thing.You can have a soft code that says this HAS happenned before..AND a hard code..that says this is happenning NOW.Hard codes must be erased manually.Disconnecting the battery is a very unreliable way to check and deal with codes.Code readers are cheap! Walmart..about $25 Cdn.

Yup...and if you're super cheap like me, just break out the ol' analog multimeter and count needle sweeps instead of light flashes...lol

I have a 93' 1.9L with 63,500 miles on it and I drive both highway and city but i get only 26 or 27. Is it because I live in MIchigan and I need to heat the car up, and thats why it sucks gas. Or do i need to change the fuel filter or what? Am I suppose to be getting better mileage. I drive pretty good, I dont floor it much and I drive at a max at 75mph?

jay102,

Yes, the cold weather and allowing the car to 'warm-up' for an extented period is probably why your mileage is in IMHO a little low. If you haven't re-gapped the plugs, I suggest you do and gap them a little closer (.007) closer than specified. Also change the air filter if it hasn't been changed recently.
When the engine is cold the engine computer calls for a 'rich' fuel mixture much like 'choking' an old carburator engine. The mixture stays 'rich' until the engine coolant temperature rises to approximately 170F. Of course it takes longer to reach this temperature in cold weather, and the engine remains running rich longer....using more fuel.
Hope this helps.

Alvin

Alvin-
thanks..i'll try doing that to my plugs.. I realized that when I got the car, nothing at all was changed so i thought that maybe a new set of plugs, wires and air filter would help. wouldnt it? thanks
Jay

If you haven't re-gapped the plugs, I suggest you do and gap them a little closer (.007) closer than specified. Alvin[/QUOTE]

how can you tell if a gap setting is good spot to be? On my 2.0 I gapped my motorcrafts to the factory specs but I have often wondered if it is a good setting.

If you haven't re-gapped the plugs, I suggest you do and gap them a little closer (.007) closer than specified. Alvin

how can you tell if a gap setting is good spot to be? On my 2.0 I gapped my motorcrafts to the factory specs but I have often wondered if it is a good setting.[/QUOTE]

The short answer is performance. A wide sparkplug gap can cause hard starting and misfires during rich or lean fuel conditions. When you change your sparkplugs do you ever analyse the old ones, and check the gap? The gap is wider than the initial gap setting (car spec.) isn't it? It takes more voltage to 'jump the gap' and the increase in dwell time before ignition saturation can cause other components to break down or run hotter than they should. Electricity follows the path of least resistance.....if it takes more current to create a spark at the plug electrodes than it does somewhere else within the ignition system, it will. Since you have been envolved in the sparkplug wire discussion think of it this way:
Scenario: Say you have driven your car 40,000 miles, and it starts running rough. You and your cohort have been recommending "change the wires". Or, if you raise the hood and see arcing from the wires to the engine "Change the wires" you would say.....right? And I would say what is the cause of the arcing?....in most cases it's dirty wires, (and dirty wires gather moisture) wires chaffing the engine and a wide plug gap. Try this next time. Clean the sparkplug wires and boots with a cleaner that is safe for vinyl or rubber. (You can wipe them down with a protectant) re-gap the plugs as I suggested, and of course route the wires so they have the maximum clearance to engine or other wires. Use dielectric grease on the sparkplug boots ONLY, not at the coil pack or distributor cap. Clean the coil wire and connectors and check for corrosion. I use the vinyl half sleeve on the coil wire to prevent chafing.
Try it yourself, next time you have a wire that is arcing and then ask yourself.....was it defective wiring...or dirty wiring. Sure, changing the wires cured the problem......they were new and clean.
Hope this helps,
Alvin

When you change your sparkplugs do you ever analyse the old ones, and check the gap? The gap is wider than the initial gap setting (car spec.) isn't it?

yes


Scenario: Say you have driven your car 40,000 miles, and it starts running rough. You and your cohort have been recommending "change the wires". Or, if you raise the hood and see arcing from the wires to the engine "Change the wires" you would say.....right? And I would say what is the cause of the arcing?....in most cases it's dirty wires, (and dirty wires gather moisture) wires chaffing the engine and a wide plug gap. Try this next time. Clean the sparkplug wires and boots with a cleaner that is safe for vinyl or rubber. (You can wipe them down with a protectant)
I agree easy cheep way so see if it works.

re-gap the plugs as I suggested, and of course route the wires so they have the maximum clearance to engine or other wires.

What about wire looms is it ok to use them?

Use dielectric grease on the sparkplug boots ONLY, not at the coil pack or distributor cap.

Why not in those spots?

Clean the coil wire and connectors and check for corrosion. I use the vinyl half sleeve on the coil wire to prevent chafing.
Try it yourself, next time you have a wire that is arcing and then ask yourself.....was it defective wiring...or dirty wiring. Sure, changing the wires cured the problem......they were new and clean.
Hope this helps,

Good points. Hopefully I wont see any arcing for a while. However isnt there a way to test with an ohm meter if the wires are on the way out?

souphound what is your opinion of the twister products or any of the other ways for more horsepower and better mileage IE: intake kits

souphound what is your opinion of the twister products or any of the other ways for more horsepower and better mileage IE: intake kitsSorry, don't know anything about Twister products.

Alvin