L98 500 Hp?

So I have a 88 Formula 350 (L98) and I was going to have to sell it but due to some unforeseen happenings I no longer have to. Now i'm gonna make it my project car. As soon as it warms up, i'm taking the engine out and ripping it apart. I want between 4-500 HP out of it, but haven't given much thought to it yet. So just asking before I even look into it, first is it possible? second what should I get? and third what do you think i'll be running 1/4 / top speed? thanks for any suggestions ahead of time.

Getting 400 - 500 HP out of a small block isn't to difficult, you just need the money. Obviously you will need headers, dual exhast, etc to let her breathe, but inside the engine, you will need to put in a higher performance cam shaft, lifters, etc, as well as heads, intake manifold, and a 4-brl. Obviously the more money you put into the engine the more horsepower you will get. Notice I didn't mention NOS, because I really don't like using it.

As for 1/4 mile ET or Top speed, all depends on the driver, but expect a low 13 to mid 12 ET and a top speed of around (depending on gears) 180 ish (minus the governer)


About gears, I would recommend 3.73 for racing and 3.50 for driving. It all depends on what you will be doing more. You can certinly race with 3.50 gears and you can go on the street with 3.73 gears. 4.10 gears really isn't for the street because you will be burning gallons per mile, not miles per gallon.

/edit: Also, Small blocks rev higher, so you can get (if you do it right) 8-9k out of an engine.

I agree your power figures are very doable and I also agree on the gears recommended. I think with the right cam/head port or replacement/induction set up it could not only deliver the power you like but be completely streatable as well and from whatI have seen 400-500 Horse should put you in lower 12 -high 11's bracket in the 1/4. Good Luck and do some research on cams. It will be your best bet for meeting your power goals.

John

lol gallons per mile...Yeah I don't want any nitrous involved, I don't like it either. So what about fuel injected? or do I have to go carbuerated if I want to get what I aim for? Also what about supercharging on top of all that?

a good house starts with a good foundation.Same story with your auto.Your car's body cant take 500hp.your transmission cant take 500hp.your rear axle cant take 500hp.your drive shaft cant take it.

If your chassis is in good condition,all the more reason to prepare it to accept 500hp,or as soon as you sink all that money into the motor you will twist a driveshaft or break an axle.Thats if you dont break a sprag or pull the motor mount and bolts clean off the crossmember first.Some folks act like 500hp is an easy task.Its not,and the task is even more difficult if your car doesnt have a frame to absorb body flex from all the torque.They do however make performance kits for such an application.Another problem you will have is traction related.All your car will want to do is sit at the light burning the tires off,wich is a good way to over-rev an engine.Cars with traction related problems end up breaking compression rings,spinning main or rod bearings,or wearing out the cam bearings,all in less than 25,000 miles.
They make specific tires and shocks that will help you get traction,but they are as costly as the engine itself,in some cases.

hmm well maybe you could help me out when i'm doing it then.

Here's a fine L98...

www.angelfire.com/mech/l98

Sig

It is very possible with the right parts,money,time and know how. I myself have A 89GTA with an L98 in it. What to do first is the basic's full exhaust,ignition,computer,fuel system (Pressure regulator system from Holley stealth ram and intake manifold from Holley stealth ram). After that it's kinda of what you want out of it. Is it going to be street/strip or full race. Street/strip isn't that hard to do first do the basic stuff. You can supercharge it with a PRO charger from ATI (thats what im doing). The P1SC is a good kit. If you supercharge it, you will have to replace the whole botom half or your motor. It sounds troublesome and expensive but necessary. The ATI kit can work with a stock L98(puts you in the 12-13 second range reportedly) but your motor won't last long. So building the bottom half will increase engine life. You will need to lower your compression ratio(dished pistons),Change the connecting rods,Pins ,Main bearings and crankshaft to A durable but light weight parts. It's one hell of A balancing act. Also a good set of valves,roller rockers,pushrods and valve springs, Not to forget a good cam with little to no overlap Crane has a good one. Also you need a cuctm programmed computer(Hypertech will not work with a superchager) Call Motorvation. Dont forget to reinforce your entire drivetrain,suspension and the frame. Dished pistons allow better/higher boost levels.

Odd the more stuff you say I need, the more I want to do it...What I really want out of doing this is the learning experience. Just want to upgrade as much as possible, down to every bolt in the engine...maybe do it for a living if I like it.

Now the only part I don't really know how to upgrade is the frame, what's involved there?

ive seen a 69 camero with a 350 engine push 420HP on a dyno. my girlfriends uncle has it(yes i actually saw him take it and have it dyno'd) so yes, it is possible, you just got to have the money to do it. its not cheap!!

Now the only part I don't really know how to upgrade is the frame, what's involved there?[/QUOTE]


Well you can start off with a Competition engineering roll cage (10 point NHRA/ IHRA approved). Part #CEE-3226. Sub frame connectors part #CEE-3111 (have to modify your stock exhaust). Strut tower brace (call summit for part #). Welding is required for most of this installations. Also all of these parts are from summit. Minus well upgrade your brakes to cross-drilled/slotted rotors,bigger calipers and stainless steel brake lines. Don't forget your drive shaft, Inland empire driveline part #IED-CF8200.

it is actually to that hard and relativly cheap compared to some. you need about a .480" to 500" lift cam with about 240* to 250* duration at .050" lift cam. your cast heads will do fine but you will need to go with around a 2.90" intake valve and a 2.00" exshaust valve, and yes they will fit. you will also need to get double springs with about a 1.7 ratio roller rocker and girdles for everything. make sure to use an oversized pushrod that is hardened with a friction welded ball tip. Your cast crank will be fine but have it balanced and blueprinted along with the rods, as for them go with eagle alloys h-beam rods. your pistons should be flat top and be made of forged or hypereutectic materials for durability and strength. just another suggestion used Rhoads Lifters they have some rattle sound to them but they will improve the idle quality and not affect your power. and it is not a baby so I agree with you about no bottle and all throttle. have fun do your research and ask around about experiences with different components.

As for 1/4 mile ET or Top speed, all depends on the driver, but expect a low 13 to mid 12 ET and a top speed of around (depending on gears) 180 ish (minus the governer)


If you know someone with 500hp who can't get lower than a mid 12, tell them to take up a new hobby... :lol:

stock Z06's with 405hp can pull damn close to a 12.0 off the showroom floor...

500hp, even with a little more weight should pull at least a 12 flat...

Now now, there are alot of things in think about that could easily change that, including driving styles, weight, driver weight, etc. I was just covering my ass with those figures, but yes high 11's in, maybe, a nova is possible

Oh, and when I say gallons per mile, its no joke. My dad owns a 1969 SS/RS Camaro 396/375 Pace Car, and when you drive her hard, you can LITERALY see the gas gauge go down. Its sick the amount of power that car has tho :)